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Old 01-23-2011, 08:24 PM   #11
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confirmed
52in/lbs

please make sure you tighten to INCH/lbs and not FT/LBS. but if your ft/lb torque wrench accurately reads and works that low then you can set it to 4.3ft/lbs i think if my math is right. dont trust my math right now though because ive been awake for almost 2 full days working and piddle farting around and im finally crashing for the night.

start on the bolts in the center of the VC and work your way out. no particular order
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Old 01-23-2011, 08:26 PM   #12
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No your about right, it takes 12 inch pounds to equal 1 ft-lb. I used FT-LB's because I got two torque wrenches one that you set and it clicks and one with a little needle that move across a board down near the handle. Either way will work, now you know what it is in either in ft-lb or in inches-lb's.
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:20 PM   #13
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Thanks

Thanks Focusmaniac. That's what I needed. Appreciate the help.
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:00 PM   #14
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Yes, yes, necro thread but how important is this I don't havea torque wrech can I just tighten em down? and not worry about it.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:28 PM   #15
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Pretty much. Just get them nice and tight. Nothing crazy. Most of us in Houston crew don't use a torque wrench for this and have never had a problem or leak.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:32 PM   #16
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I would not refer to it so much as 'nice and tight'. The bolts are shouldered meaning they go down to hit solid and then anything more you put on you are simply twisting the bolt in two and pulling threads too. I simply go down evenly until I feel them hit and then just enough more to verify they did hit. Using torque wrench there is quite frankly irrelevant since the hit tells you to stop.

6 mm.-1.0 thread pitch like these typically strip aluminum threads at anything over like 9 ft.lbs. I'd stay at 4-6 but if using ft.lbs. wrench you probably have one that is too big for the job, what's needed is a short 6 inch one with a torque that low. The bigger one is simply too big to be accurate with torque that low.

Doesn't matter anyway, I never torque them. Once you figure out all they can do is hit and no further gasket squeezing can occur after that, it becomes easy to simply feel it hit and pretty much stop there. Never broke a bolt or pulled threads, and never have leaks either.

Same thing with the thermostat housings on these, the bolts hit to limit of part, no tightening you can do after that helps a thing, all you are doing is breaking or cracking your stat housing, the damage then shows up later because you preloaded the plastic part too much. The parts were not meant to be that tight, once you hit part solid you have compressed all the gasket that is possible anyway. I love it when guys here talk about going back to retighten more when part leaks, I can practically hear the part crack. Look at how many people have to buy new housings here, I've got 3 zetecs back to '98 and have had housings off all 3 many times and never failed one yet. I don't torque these either, you again look for the part hitting solid, no torque wrench needed.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:39 PM   #17
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^exactly.
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:08 PM   #18
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I can't get my bolts out... am I missing something they're all lifted but they're catching on something... I gotta be doing something wrong... I have them all loosen i can just keep turning them I can even pull up a little bit but they feel like they're hooking on something, I do have a SVT not sure if that makes a diffrence.I even poped the garment up with a screen driver and tried prying it off... nothing.. What am I doing wrong
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:19 PM   #19
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You're freaking out over nothing is what. The bolts are trapped in the rubber grommet molded into cover. Grommets can be part of overall gasket or separate, either way they trap bolts in place so valve cover has gasket/bolts already together to quickly throw it on motor at the factory.
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