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Old 11-05-2012, 07:10 PM   #11
oramman87
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So just got the time to do a compression test all 4 were at 175. The plugs which are ndk double plats are fouled bad. I got a set of motor craft plugs for free and same thing fouled them out. Still a rough and choppy idle and then stalls.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:11 PM   #12
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Also after the compression test the battery was at 12.33 Volts so I know it's still good.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:26 AM   #13
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Electrical???

Have you changed the plug wires? Have you checked the pig tail going to the coil? That POS usually breaks before 100,000 miles or mabye it could be a coil. The dark plugs send my mind to the electrical fireing system.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:32 AM   #14
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Is it blowing black smoke out the back? I don't mean smokescreen thick though!
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:37 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Have you changed the plug wires? Have you checked the pig tail going to the coil? That POS usually breaks before 100,000 miles or mabye it could be a coil. The dark plugs send my mind to the electrical fireing system.
/\/\ This...
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:45 AM   #16
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Quote:
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So just got the time to do a compression test all 4 were at 175. The plugs which are ndk double plats are fouled bad. I got a set of motor craft plugs for free and same thing fouled them out. Still a rough and choppy idle and then stalls.
oooook.... fouled how, and what was your gap and plugs exactly? We have had issues with parts stores giving the wrong plugs for these engines since there were 2 different 2.0 4 cyls available that year. If those plugs weren't for a Focus specifically, are you sure the heat range is correct?

You turn on the AC, and it stalls. That is typically the domain of the IAC to prevent that from happening. Regardless of the fact that you just changed the IAC- something is wrong. It might not be the part, it might be in the intake manifold- clogged up. Due to Murphy's Law- that's why you were able to change it in record time.

The only other thing you might need to check here is the TPS signal, and the throttle plate position. Hopefully nobody got in there and messed with the throttle plate stop screw that some non-car knowing peeps seem to think is an idle screw.

I would also double check the wiring to the IAC to see if it passes by things that might've burned into it. We've also had some running problems associated with the coil wiring where the harness is melted near the EGR tube -the metal one from the exhaust. Yanking on individual coil wires is a way to test if the pigtail is the issue. In your case, it does seem to point to the IAC being faulty- however, you likely have multiple issues. Get the IAC working first, then we'll move on.

Please... for goodness sake stop spraying stuff around to find vacuum leaks. That only works to double check large leaks like intake manifold leaks. Nobody is going to find a little 1/8" or 1/4" vacuum line leak that isn't making a hissing sound with carb cleaner or starting fluid. There are only like 6 vacuum lines on the VECI- is that too much to remove and visually inspect? It's not like you're diagnosing some 80's feedback carb with 40+ lines.

I hope that's of some help. And yes, please let us know what those plugs are exactly as in the part number, or verify that the plugs are for the Focus Zetec engine. Then move on to figure out (hopefully wiring) why the IAC isn't functioning properly.
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:30 AM   #17
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The plugs are all at .51 they are really really black when I pull them. The motor craft plugs are sp-478. I will check the tps signal I am sure there is a how to. I have pulled every vacuum line on the car except for the hard egr tube that connects to the pcv valve and checked them all over. There is no black smoke from the exhaust. I replaced the pigtail for the coil. When I turned on the rear defroster last night the rpms jumped then slowly went back down jumped agin then the car stalled.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:08 PM   #18
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Am I blind? I see mention of plugs changed but no wires. Simply pulling wires on these often breaks the carbon string inside to not idle right. Check for resistance, more than 5K ohms per foot of length and they are bad. Also, technically there are TWO PCV hoses, one in front and one that attaches to very bottom of intake, where it gives the most trouble. Most problems right where the hose enters intake, it sucks through side of hose where it has softened from continued exposure to fuel solvents. There is NO EGR hose that connects to PCV, that steel tube continues to the PCV valve up front and the second rubber hose I speak of. If IAC pulled did you known recover old gasket or rubber seal? Some use a flat paper gasket and some use a double circle rubber o-ring cast as one part. Either can have a tendency to stick to intake, if you put new part on with gasket, it will have two stacked and leak like sieve especially if the rubber one. Very hard to see up in there without a folding mirror. A local lean area at a vacuum hose leaking trips PCM into richening ALL cylinders since that is all it can do, meaning seeming rich is often a lean problem. 12.33 volts is not good either, that is around when batteries often start making car have seeming idle problems. A known good battery is 12.6 to 12.8 volts. Charge battery up FULLY and check alt output, dying alt can produce this stuff once battery is low enough.

Like he says, quit spraying carb fluid to find leaks, you're going to blow yourself up.
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:37 AM   #19
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Those are the right plugs. Sorry, I have a theory for diagnosis where I look for the simplest cause that has been overlooked.

On that PCV line, low idle conditions are caused by the PCV collapsing under idle. Like AMC wrote, it most likely occurs at the elbow where the vacuum line enters the intake. Ford makes an insulated replacement that is supposed to prevent this problem.

Alternator problems are a big deal for this car. There are issues with the VR plug-in connector similar to the coil problems, and issues with the wiring leaving that connector being either melted in the harness or broken. Intermittent shorts are possible. We also have experienced weak VRs in most rebuilds inspiring me to recommend that everyone seek out a local rebuilder because the business model for those guys encourages the use of better parts. You can check your alternator output using the electronic odometer test mode while you drive the car. Simply press and hold the trip reset button with the key off, then turn the key on, and continue to hold. The odo display will change to read [test], and you can release the reset button. Now each time you press and release the odo reset button you will scroll through one of about 30 test functions. You are looking for the one that reads [bat 12.1] which is what is should read with your battery reading 12.3v at the terminals. I've noticed a .2v difference in mine, but you can't ride around under the hood with a multi-meter on the battery. There is also a FP readout that will give you fuel pressure, but it might display in KPas instead of PSI. The temp readout is definitely in C instead of F. The DTC code display doesn't work very well, and should be ignored. You should also remember that this readout is dependent on sensors, for example, some people who have bad temp sensors will have the readout jumping around and showing ridiculous temps like 200C, but you check it with an infrared thermometer and get nothing close to that. The same would go for a fuel sensor- if it was bad, then it might give bad readings back that you could double check with a mechanical gauge installed in the fuel line.

I think your problem is eventually going to end up being more simple than that, but your level of frustration might go over the moon before then.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:31 AM   #20
oramman87
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I have replaced the pcv line already that is where my focus journey started. I did get the part from ford no heater hose. Thank you for all the advice, I am just determined to fix the damn thing now. When we took off the old iac I told dad there should be a gasket we couldn't find one. I stopped spraying carb cleaner a good bit back and went with a smoke test on the vacuum lines. I am even thinking Mabey some how we were off a tooth or two when we did the timing. But my father and I checked and double checked our work when we did it. I am not giving up I believe I saw the connector for the alt while I was going after the iac. I know this is prolly something simple and I have been going over the basics and trying to control my anger. I have been driving my 86 silverado for the mean time and she loves the gas lmao killing my wallet. I did replace the wires and I replaced the pigtail for the coil soldered then heat shrink. But thanks agin for the advice and giving me options instead of pulling at my hair.
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