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Old 10-30-2012, 06:47 PM   #11
streetfocus
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You made me read that with an accent.
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:49 PM   #12
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Bahahaha

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Old 11-22-2012, 12:58 PM   #13
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Depending on how much you want to spend, you might be able to get above 170whp (on a dynojet) with Intake, Header, 3" Exhaust, Stage 2 cam, 2.3 Head Swap with Port/Polish, and an intake manifold (Cosworth with modification, Weapon R with modification, or Top Speed Duratec I/M <--best choice) Don't use weapon R junk. How many foci people use that brand? Let alone Mazda people. Add a set of SS 1 piece valves to your 23 head.

You could also do a DIY turbo kit like I am. You could put together a non-intercooled 6-8 psi setup for less than $2,000.

Otherwise, FSWerks Stage 1 is the way to go. Check em out at fswerks.com. Give Randy a call and tell him what your goals are and he will hook you up fosho.

The final option, is to go n/a built. 11.6-12.0:1 compression pistons, hard cam, aftermarket I/M, header and 3" exhaust. That will give you right around 200whp. A 23 get you 40-60 more hp & more grunt.
No you don't need to do a 23, more motor is always better
As for what felix said. You most definitely do not need to swap to a 2.3.<<W/ that your leaving some power on the table. I am going to be putting down above 300whp on my stock internals 2.0. The 20 more than gets the job done.<< You never have enough, who are you kidding, come on. You do not need tubular control arms to help put any power down. And the Torsen diff is no longer made so that is out of the question.>> Look around & you can find them. The stock open diff will be completely fine with your power levels as long as you're not doing a million drags. Having a 23 to begin w/ gets you more grunt & a better flowing head. CFM's tubular arms gets the power down= lowers your 60' times &they are stronger & lighter.

If you do decide to keep it N/A, then you will want to have 2 mufflers on your exhaust to help keep quiet with the header. Example, FSWerks Stealth exhaust. But FSWerks will not sell a 3" version of their exhausts, so that will be needed through Trubendz.

If you are going boost, then FSWerks 2.5" Race Exhaust will be perfect.[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:10 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by w2s2008 View Post
I have a dyno at where i went to school and am guna go get a base line run in but ibwana see somewhere between 170 n 200 at the wheels. I have a steeda intake but everything eles is stock i drive tbis car daily and want to keep it that way. 93 octain is avalible n thats the only limiting factor i have im none emissions where i live so cats are option ;) ive built more mustangs the i care to admit n decided to go a with the focus this time. Forced induction isnt outa the picture but i dnt wana go over 8psi. So im looking for ideas i wana get a build sheet done n get at it. Stock trans okay i have a 5 speed also axle options exhaust i dnt wana have an overly loud car but i would like a nice hey here i am but not holy s what was that lol. Intake manifolds heads cams looking for direction
Quote:
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Fwerk's turbo kit will get you there no problem. For a N/A car as you know theres no replacement for displacement= Get a 23 motor to start with= longer stroke for more grunt, the head flows a lot better. Add a set of cams, fwerk's header w/ Fwerk's stealth system, cossie intake or do a sheet metal intake, CFM's TB, of course a 91-93 octane tune w/ rear o2 senser & egr delete. For more mods= forged pistons/ rods/ ranger crank & SS 1 piece valve's. Add a Torsen & CFM's tubular control arm's to help get the power down.
There you go.
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:05 PM   #15
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Lol. Dude thinks he knows something about cars.

If you did research, you would find that the weapon r intake actually isn't garbage. Its just made for a dbw system, but with modification, can fit a cable setup.

When you're revving super high to make power, I think you could make more power revving the 2.0 to 8k rpms than you can with these built n/a 2.3's stopping at 7k. The 2.3 will not give you 40-50 more hp. Stock its only like 10 hp more. Especially with an 8k rev on the 2.0, they should be fairly even.

You still don't need to swap to a 2.3. That's a waste of money when you can put on a 2.3 head and rev to 8k.

Torsens are discontinued. Check out mfactory for a good diff. Its what I'm using for my built motor. The stock diff in the mtx has shitted out on cougar guys at stock power levels...which is below 200hp. Without hard launches and 1st gear WOT runs the stock diff will hold up.

If you're looking for more traction, check out lakewood traction bars or whatever they're called. That's what helps put power down, tubular control arms are a waste unless its a track car.

God I hate people.
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:29 PM   #16
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Opinions are like *#*holes..everyone has them...
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:44 PM   #17
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Opinions are like *#*holes..everyone has them...
Yup they sure do.LOL Trying to give the OP facts on modding his Foci.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:12 PM   #18
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Lololololololol

This is why I'm almost never on this forum.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:42 PM   #19
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Funny how certain individuals like to think they are an expert on EVERYTHING!!!
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:06 AM   #20
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I'm pretty sure most people would agree that the D23 is a more powerful engine. Plenty of dynos and track runs to compare. I have the D20 and it doesn't rev to 8K to get equal power. I let it hit 7K at the track recently and actually ran a slower time (because the power starts to drop off after about 6300 or so). These are the facts I have. Are we talking about peak numbers or usable power? I wish I had the 2.3L. ......
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