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SPI Performance (2000-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L Split Port Injection engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 10-29-2012, 11:45 PM   #11
jlawlax1344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samishii23 View Post
Are the gauge clusters for the same years plug and play?
Yes its plug and play for 00-04 models, but if the guage you get is from a auto and you have a manual (vice versa) you may have some lights come up and my se doesnt have abs on it and the car i got the guages from did...so it threw the brake light and total light failure, so i checked it all and pulled the bulbs. And if you dont want to spend $80 or more to have your mileage reset, make sure the new cluster is the same or close to yours, i found one with like 2k more, bought it and drive it until it was almost perfect and swapped lol
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:31 AM   #12
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I went to the junkyard and took a cluster from a zx3 with tach and it just plugged right in. Best $20 I've ever spent on my car
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:46 AM   #13
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One you can get the digital gauge on the display for free, second I wouldn't recommend toying with the redline on a SPI unless the engine is rebuilt.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:11 AM   #14
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any first gen (I don't know about the SVT...) cluster should work. I did this swap several years ago because my LX did not come with a tach.

The only issue is that the new tach will display the millage from the old car unless it is reflashed. I know dealers can do this, but when I looked into it, the ones near me said they would only do the reflash if I bought the tach new from them.

So I got a used one off ebay with similar milage and swapped them. should be a how to on here somewhere if you search for it.
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:15 PM   #15
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I know david did a full svt swap on his spi and I'm pretty sure some extra wiring was needed.

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Old 01-25-2013, 08:25 PM   #16
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As someone else above just mentioned, this motor is the last one on earth one should be worrying about the redline on. The valveseats are known for falling out on a great number of the engines, hard use and higher rpm will only help that to happen faster.
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:47 PM   #17
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As someone else above just mentioned, this motor is the last one on earth one should be worrying about the redline on. The valveseats are known for falling out on a great number of the engines, hard use and higher rpm will only help that to happen faster.


get back under your zetec bridge.

we don't need trolls here.
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:29 PM   #18
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Quit acting like a child and don't even begin to think you can tell me what to do.

If you can't act more civil than that then find a rock to hide under somewhere.

I have no zetec bridge, I work on all kinds of engines.

What I posted was factually accurate, it holds true for every engine in creation. For you to not think that shows just how smart you are.
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:35 PM   #19
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Not to stir the pot, but just because you work on all kinds of engines doesn't mean you know what your talking about.

My old mechanic blatantly got in face and told me I was full of shit, when I told him not to swap in another spi (due to the valve problem) when I was looking for a new engine after my spi went out.

He said he had been working on cars for 35 years an has never heard of such a stupid thing as a valve seat problem on the SOHC focus. I shouldn't believe the stuff I read on the internet. He refused to swap in anything than what the car came with from the factory. I went and pick the car back up the next day.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:10 PM   #20
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Good for you and good for him, so what. Proves nothing in my case. Of course I do not know everything, but I can pretty much tear down and rebuild every unknown to me engine and put it back together to run forever. Same with ATX and no formal training in it. I have rebuilt many, they all lasted for years. Those people in Detroit know no more than us and the knowledge is out there. An SPI or zetec is a tinker toy to me. You should try like a six cylinder motorcycle like I have. Far more parts.

Clearly your mech did not want to do extra stuff to do the swap, all mechanics are in it for the money. That means you do the easy work and avoid the troublesome stuff if you're smart. You should try it for awhile, lose enough money and you'll come around to why he was the way he was. Of course they have to lie to back it up. At our garage, we wouldn't lie, just say why we won't do it and then offer the swap but at high enough cost to generally drive them away anyway. Everybody has big ideas until the money figure shows up. One is not in business to give money away to others. Problem is, the public now expects you to or you are not giving them FULL service, the major reason I left the parts business.

I do 100% of my own work, have never paid a cent to have work done except maybe machine work. I could do that if had the equipment.
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