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Old 10-23-2012, 09:10 AM   #1
hacsac05
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00 Focus SPI Question

I recently bought a 00 Focus SPI very cheap and had been told it got hot and had a blown head gasket. I removed the head and I have concluded the head is warped and may be cracked I have not pulled the valves. I have been eyeing the reman head from headsonly on ebay for 250 dollars. I called the local machine shop and was told it would be around 150 dollars and that is if the head had enough aluminum protruding past the head to roll over to keep the seats in. This does not include new seats, just checking it out milling and the seat "rollover" procedure. My questions are does anyone have experiance with this procedure, the reman? Should I risk the machine shop or just get the reman?


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Old 10-23-2012, 09:27 PM   #2
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Better to get new seat pressed in tighter AND the seat edge rolling. You can roll seat and seat still be loose on sides, won't hold as well by a longshot.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:27 AM   #3
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Thanks for your help decided to go with the head from headsonly will repost with results.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:10 PM   #4
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OK so I ordered head from headsonly and put it in today put it all together, and white smoking so I gave it the benefit of doubt and ran it just to make sure it wasnt coolant in the muffler. I drove it around for a couple of miles and it started to over heat so I parked it and now I am really at a loss. Tommorow I will do compression and a leakdown.Has anyone ever seen a cracked block on these? I dont see signs were it has dropped a valve before.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:49 PM   #5
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99.5% of the time the head has nothing to do with the overheat, rather it cracks as a RESULT of the overheat.

So you fixed the head possibly, you still have to fix the overheating problem which is most likely a separate issue. If you are a loss then so are we, there are textbooks written on what needs to happen to stop overheating, you have apparently never read one since you give no mention of whether rest of system working or not here. Meaning you might not even have enough water in the motor, we cannot know based on your text.

Strongly suggest you cull the threads here for the various causes, quite frankly we don't have a week of time to instruct you fully.

Parts that must be working correctly are radiator, fans and all their controls (a book all by itself), water pump, all hoses, and system must be properly pressurized. Other reasons to but more far-fetched. You actually should have had all that done before going into the motor.........now you risk breaking new parts. Entirely possible too you may have yanked a head that didn't need to be yanked.

Good luck, you'll need it.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
99.5% of the time the head has nothing to do with the overheat, rather it cracks as a RESULT of the overheat.

So you fixed the head possibly, you still have to fix the overheating problem which is most likely a separate issue. If you are a loss then so are we, there are textbooks written on what needs to happen to stop overheating, you have apparently never read one since you give no mention of whether rest of system working or not here. Meaning you might not even have enough water in the motor, we cannot know based on your text.

Strongly suggest you cull the threads here for the various causes, quite frankly we don't have a week of time to instruct you fully.

Parts that must be working correctly are radiator, fans and all their controls (a book all by itself), water pump, all hoses, and system must be properly pressurized. Other reasons to but more far-fetched. You actually should have had all that done before going into the motor.........now you risk breaking new parts. Entirely possible too you may have yanked a head that didn't need to be yanked.

Good luck, you'll need it.
OK I exepcted at least on jerk to anwser so now that we have that out of the way let me clarify, I am not a idiot and have read I would be willing to bet more books on vehicles than you, My first post was just to understand the heead valve seat rollover option and to ask if any one had dealt with heads only. My next post was to ask if anyone had seen a craked block. Since I didnt ask about the cooling system you should infer that I am fully aware of the issue. I thought since you guys were focus fanatics that maybe you had seen a spi block crack or have dealt with headsonly. I did not however expect to get treated as if I were stupid. Thanks for the people who responded to share information and for the ones who are quick to judge and know it all thank you too for reminding me how easy it is to sit behind a computer and trash someone for asking a question.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:40 PM   #7
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We can only give as much advice as we have info to go on, as stated.
We don't know why the car overheated in the first place, as stated.

You have to keep in mind that these types of thread pop up regularly and the people posting them have wildly varying automotive experience. The more info you can provide, the more we can get a feel for just how much you know, what you've already tried and then we can direct you towards what the next steps should be.
Not being face to face is a real downfall of the internet. But we try our hardest to make it work well.

But as stated, really need more info to give any reasonable course of action here.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:37 PM   #8
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X2.

You ask for 'headsonly' facts but obviously that has not cured your problem. SO........only thing left for you is you've done your work incorrectly OR, you have NOT pursued all the rest. Getting mad will not resolve that. No one called you names but we can only base judgements on facts laid out as well as the general tone of that layout.

Yes, the block can crack, ALL blocks can crack from overheat, if as well read as you say then you'd've known that years ago. Some are more susceptible than others but they ALL can, ALL makes. Basic physics. Don't even have to see one to know.

If motor starts up still smoking you could possible pull plugs and see if one has any antifreeze residue on it. Does smoke smell sweet like antifreeze? If not running antifreeze then you can't tell. If you really oiled up the motor parts like I do then motor will burn residual oil for the first 5 minutes but go away after that, but smell is detectable as oil. Any water in the oil? An indicator but not absolutely necessary. I've seen water burn only in chamber and no water in oil or oil in water, depends on location and severity of the crack. Burning water only could be faulty head gasket only too, the block STILL could be good. If you are positive of your skills though then I lean toward crack in block.

This is why I will NEVER buy an overheated car regardless of the cost, simply way too many potential worms there.............you will NEVER be told truly how hot it REALLY got. You are simply one of many, many more who have done this and fallen into same pit, if well read you would have known that too. It's all over the net in 5000+ locations, different models and cars each. All have the same connecting problem, 'I fixed blown gasket, why doesn't it run right?'

Once again, nothing personal, just the facts. No insult intended. Good luck.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:05 PM   #9
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Hey there, sorry this discussion went down hill so fast, two people having a bad day can result in curt answers & no progress....

You're right that white smoke is usually coolant related, we aren't there to actually see/smell it & checking that closely is important since SOME have confused oil & coolant smoke in the past. "Sweet" odor instead of burnt oil being the giveaway....

B4 going further, I'd pull the plugs and see if there is evidence of coolant getting into one or more cylinders. (nice shiny steam cleaned can generally be seen if that happens)

The "new" head could be at fault, there could be a leak at the gasket, your guess of coolant still being in the exhaust is STILL a possibility besides the normal condensation since two miles isn't enough to clean things out...

One typical issue that LOOKS like overheating is when only the high speed fan functions. In that case the temp gauge gets near the red B4 it even kicks on to help cooling. (Lots of threads on THAT issue)

'Fraid that at this point you're starting from scratch again to diagnose whatever faults existed B4 you bought it.

Did you by chance have a straight edge available to check the head & block for flatness?

And by the way, if it turns out the new head has issues, you aren't the first that happened to. I can remember changing a head in a LeCar (a PITA BTW) and the used head I was given to install was worse than the one I removed originally!

Good thing I wasn't working Flat Rate at the time....

Luck!
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:57 PM   #10
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Thank you sailor for the breath of fresh air, I can be quite undiplomatic at times.
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