Dog Bone reinstall question

[boardgeneration]

So I took my lower mount off and installed massive purple poly bushings.
When I went to put it back in I took the bracket off so I had room to slip the dog bone back in. I put the bracket on the small side than slipped the dog bone back in.
Here's my question. How the heck do I get to the top bolt on the bracket? There's no room for a ratchet or a wrench. The rack n pinion is right there.
Can I have the bracket remain installed than slip the dog bone under and in? (MTX75)
It didn't seem to be enough room with the bracket on. I had to pry the mount out with a bar, maybe I can pry it back in with the bracket still installed.
Any suggestions would help!!

Here's the old n new bushings. A much needed upgrade!!

[Sponsor]

[rambleon84]

yeah i had that issue too

Get someone to help you, just push/pry the engine to widen the gap and it should be a much smoother install. I didnt have to remove any bracket, just the bolts holding the dog bone on. if you have no one to help, try finding a small jack and see if you can get it to fit between the subframe and block, could be a possibility? Its just a matter of finessing the motor out of the way to get everything to line up again.

btw, its a great mod, makes shifting feel so much better

[boardgeneration]

Thank!
I messed around with it for a bit. I ended up getting the top bold on with the mount connected to the small side of the dog bone. Not much finger room but I got it. I first had to pry a bit on the sub frame to get the big side in than wiggled to get the other bolts in. Those massive bushings are huge. They definitely take up more room than the factory bushings. Took longer than expected and wont be taking the bracket off next time. I bet I could do it in half or quarter time next time. haha.
**And a tip if anyone else does them and dont know. Take the metal insert out of the small busing before attempting to press it into the mount. It works a lot better without it in, than just tap it back in once the bushing is in the mount.
Next up is the passenger side mount. It was supposed to be in today but never made it. Than my big weekend project is the passenger side cv axle and hub and bearing replacement. This I know wont take too long. I've done a few on other cars.
But again, if there's any tips or things to watch out for let me know!!

[boardgeneration]

Update on post-install of massive Polly dog bone bushings.
First off the shifting now feels so much better! I love it.
Second, I no longer hear a bad vibration/ slipping/ grinding noise through first and second gear which I though was the axle and bearing. I even bought them ready to replace. Now I'm wondering if its even needed.
And lastly, the only negative about my new dog bone bushings is the vibration in reverse and in first at low rpm's. a lot more vibration than I would like but the payoff in the other ways is worth it.

[Lscman]

Originally Posted by boardgeneration

Update on post-install of massive Polly dog bone bushings.
First off the shifting now feels so much better! I love it.
Second, I no longer hear a bad vibration/ slipping/ grinding noise through first and second gear which I though was the axle and bearing. I even bought them ready to replace. Now I'm wondering if its even needed.
And lastly, the only negative about my new dog bone bushings is the vibration in reverse and in first at low rpm's. a lot more vibration than I would like but the payoff in the other ways is worth it.

Good to hear you got it reassembled. However you're comparing a new bushing to a failed bushing of a different type. This is like comparing a defective Ferrari motor that won't crank over to a new Fiesta motor. Nobody can conclude that poly bushings are better or worse than OEM based upon this repair. You might as well compare a corded, old $200 premium tire to a to a new $49 generic then tell us cheap tires grip better in rain. Poly bushings add vibration harshness and noise compared to fresh OEM type, so they offer no advantage for typical street use. They are only beneficial for racing apps where OEM bushings don't last over 50K mi or hardware movement needs managed due to elevated torque levels or higher G forces induced from race tires. Most serious factory sports cars like Viper and Corvette do not use poly for motor mounts or suspension pivot points because it adds noise and offers no significant performance advantages. If I had a 300HP gutted Focus autocross car sitting on a trailer, I'd think about it.

[boardgeneration]

I see the advantages they would have on high torque applications. However after driving with it over the weekend I love the new shift feel.
The vibration don't bother me anymore.
And today I replaced my passenger mount and as you can see it was needed!!!