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Old 10-15-2012, 01:54 PM   #1
borrox
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im at a total loss and confussed

hey after many attempts im at a loss . my car has been running hot well i say hot the faster i go the hotter it gets if im doing 40 mpg i run at 96c and at 60 its 101c and fan stays on i have no water loss or oil and no signs of hg failiure . so far i have replaced water pump cambelt radiator and thermostat but found it runs ok with out fan staying on with out the thermostat please help its driving me crazy many thanks




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Old 10-15-2012, 02:45 PM   #2
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sounds like the new thermostat is broken too. its not that uncommon.

u can test them in a pot of boiling water to see if they actuate. (search if u need more detailed explanation)
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:30 PM   #3
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thank you for your reply . i have tried 4 different thermostats with no success and am driving with out one in i know its not the best thing to do but least gives me use of the car. i have heard so many possibilities i have run a compression test and 3 were running at 190 psi and pot 4 at 180 psi so no true evidence of head gasket plus not loosing oil or water no rough idle or loss of power either just excess fuel use as car doest get up to temparture with no thermostat . i have checked all hoses and all seem good plus replaced coolant cap lid

some one suggested possible cht sensor or blocked water way and heater matrix but heating does work so im not sure with matrix but live diagnostics run the same as on board odometer so i am looking for as many possibilities or a fix as possible many thanks
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:39 PM   #4
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101C? That's not hot. Our engines in the states will run up to 116C before the low speed fan kicks in when it's not moving. True, that is over the boiling point of water, but not automotive coolant.

Do you know how to use the electronic odometer to test the actual temp reading from the sensor in C, and do you have another way to check the engine temp- like an infrared thermometer? That would give you a reference point to see if the temp sensor (CHT) needs to be replaced. What we've seen in the past is cars that are running perfectly well, within range in reality, but the temp sensor will suddenly show it to be overheating. I don't know why the temp sensors go bad like this, but we've seen that a few times. The only way to know if this is it is to double check the temp readings. Due to the laws of thermodynamics, you should be able to get a reading off the side of the cylinder head as long as you aren't close to the exhaust manifold. Just make sure you're reading off metal not plastic. You must do it idling because right after turning the engine off- it heats up due to latent heat.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:05 PM   #5
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hiya thank you for your reply . here in uk . i have compared the odometer readings to when fan should kick in witch is set at 98c and cut off when below 96c the trouble being our ambient temp is about 4-6 c at night and i can drive about 2 miles up the road and fan will be on constant with temps as high as 103-106c at 60 miles an hour but with thermostat it doesnt it sits at 64-74c its one of those ones that it driving me crazy lol

out of interest would a dodgy cat or exhast do these heat things as i do have a rattle from around the flexi pipe / cat area and i know the cht and fan come on from heat of the cylinder head ?

oh btw i dont have an inferred thermometer but at this rate i may have to invest


these problems have taught me lots so it isnt a bad thing

many thanks
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:06 AM   #6
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Do you not understand?? You were just told once and now you say the same thing again. The guy just wasted his breath.

103-106 is NOT HOT. You have not established any proof of overheating in any of your posts yet.

'i know the cht and fan come on from heat of the cylinder head ?'

That makes absolutely no sense at all.

'fan should kick in witch is set at 98c and cut off when below 96c'

That statement is nuts, the fans don't go on/off with only a spread of 2 degrees c. Odometer readings??? You gotta be kidding.

Looking at mine the other day, fan on at 115c, off at around 99-100c, the car runs perfect and does not overheat at all.

Your posts ramble quite a bit. Perhaps you should sit down, think for a second, and clearly state what you think is wrong in as few words as possible.

Fan implementation on these cars moves all over the map, during winter here in Texas, they virtually do not come on at all, even at idle unless you sit for more than ten minutes. You most certainly cannot peg fan at a certain temperature, there can be times at exact same temp where fan is on and others where it does not come on at all.

Do yourself a favor and put stat back in, with world gas prices what they are you need all the money you can get.
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:00 AM   #7
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sorry if u think i am rambling im only stating what 2 garages and ford have told me . so i am beginning the fault finding process . like i stated my fan comes on and stays on with temps outside the car or 4c are you telling me that's normal as i was lead to believe at 60 mph and outside temps like that it wouldn't come on as its cold here in winter and doesn't do it while idling many thanks

oh and doing 80- 90 mph it creeps to the red in the winter
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:44 AM   #8
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Maybe by odometer readings he meant that he was doing the electronic odometer trick where you can monitor what the CHT is telling the engine.

Is this a petrol or diesel engine? Zetec in the US is a specific engine, but IIRC, it's a trim level in the UK. If it is a diesel, then yes I can understand your fans cutting on at a lower temp. For petrol, no, the fan shouldn't come on until a ridiculously high temp like 115 or so, then the high speed fan will come on at like 118. Now the high speed fan will come on when either the cabin air vents are set to DEF or the AC is on- if you have AC. If you don't have AC, then it should only come on as engine temp dictates. And yes, AC always operates when the vent is set to DEF regardless of cabin air temp settings. That is one method we recommend for people who are having problems with the fan not turning on low speed. This causes overheating at low speeds and idling, so not your problem.

Seriously, you are giving the exact same problem descriptions as the 2 times I've seen a faulty CHT. Literally everything else has been replaced before anyone went through what I suggested to you about using the electronic odometer trick to watch engine temps, and comparing that readout to an infrared reading from the cylinder head while idling.

At this point, unless you just want an infrared thermometer for other fun things like checking the insulation of your house, there's no sense in dropping $40 on one. Just go get a CHT sensor and replace it. You've already replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, and some hoses- I presume- so the sensor is all that is left to do. I would also double check the wiring to the CHT. You can also round off your complete cooling system replacement with a new reservoir cap if you really want to.

Now yours would be the first time I've seen the sensor go bad slowly. Typically the sensor will operate normally until it reaches a certain temp- then it goes nuts giving readings like 200C on the EO display when there is no big change in real engine temp.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:13 PM   #9
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hiya thanks for the reply .

i was doing the odometer trick thats what was telling me the temps and is where i observed the fan kick in point and off point . i priced up a cht sensor today at about 10 pounds so will fit this weekend and hope it fixes the quirky problem as i have brought a coolant cap all ready and i guess that completes the cooling system overhaul . its just so frustrating knowing if the next part is going to fix it or not

its a petrol 1.8 zetec (estate ) 2001 . it does have ac but i dont use it and i use the heated window to demist as i was aware of the air con kicking in

many thanks
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