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Old 10-06-2012, 12:37 AM   #11
amc49
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Belt not broke, engine wouldn't even start then. It CAN run quite well until you hit a certain higher rpm then go completely to crap if the belt has stripped teeth and jumped time slightly. I've seen perfect idle with belt off two teeth.

Don't mess with the converter, they absolutely do not simply go away all at once unless you hit something and shatter the internal ceramic brick. Virtually impossible on vertical ones like these.

Pull top cam sprocket cover and look at backside of belt, if you've seized an idler pulley to jump belt there will be some sort of scarring on belt backside. You can check for missing/stripped teeth then too.

Motor is non-interference.

Smell from rich condition since cam timing so retarded, the rich blast hitting a normal converter can do it.
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:43 AM   #12
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Gotcha. Will check it Sunday. Car show in town tomorrow. Pray for me!

Thanks a bunch,
Bill
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:46 AM   #13
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Yup AMC's right. If the belt broke it wouldn't run at all, and if it jumped time it can idle fine just have no power and such. Also I doubt it's the converter at least until you definitely check the t-belt
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:49 AM   #14
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Its a 2001 with only 138000 miles on it. You think I can get this done under warranty?
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:52 AM   #15
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hahahahaha


Sorry there is no warranty of any kind on your car now after all these years. 10yrs is the limit of anything as far as I know. Besides, the t-belt is a wear and tear part, they don't cover those. Now cats I do know have some warranty or are supposed to be covered but like I said you have way too many miles and your car is over 10yrs old. Seriously doubtful they would cover that.
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:29 PM   #16
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He's spot on, you were supposed to change the belt at 120K, you have essentially voided warranty by not doing so. They don't last forever you know..........
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:37 PM   #17
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I doubt there was any warranty left on anything. 10yrs is the limit on anything for cars as far as I know.
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:11 PM   #18
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NO warranty? Damn. Update: I pulled the valve cover off and what little of the belt I could see looked fine, and seemed to have good tension. The grooves in the othr side of the cams for that bar to hold them both lined up with each other.However, I pulled the plug on 4, and motor dropped rpm. also with 3 and 2. Number 1, ( closest to belt) not so good. No change in idle. Pulled brand new plug, inserted good old plug from #4, and still no change. Cylinder seems dead. Could I have dropped a valve?
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:24 PM   #19
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What about the plug wire, do you still have your old one to try? If that doesn't work then rent a compression tester and test your compression.



Oh and the lines on the back of the cam can still line up if it was the crank pulley side that jumped. Did you put the motor at TDC and check if they were both in line?
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:04 PM   #20
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I'd inspect the coil. It wouldn't be the first time that I've heard of a bad coil that ran ok at low rpm, but crapped out at high rpm. Do a secondary resistance check on cyl 1 and I bet you find high resistance or open circuit.

To properly inspect a timing belt you have to make sure you look at all the belt. This is done by marking the belt you can see with a permanent marker, and then bumping the engine until you can't find part of the belt that you haven't checked. Remove the coil plug-in to make sure it won't start, and key off, floor + hold the accelerator so it won't spray fuel when you bump it with the starter. Also, look at the wear on the teeth of the belt. On the back side of the belt you're looking for missing rubber or cloth showing through.
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