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Old 10-05-2012, 07:30 PM   #11
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ok, so I am a bit confused then, the Valve cover vent on top rear of motor is the PVC you people are mentioning? I thought thought the PVC was the device on the front lower passenger side that has a Valve on it that can be made to be cut to back off the system.. I assumed doing just one half was ok for now, so I need to revent to the intake would kill the oil light? until I do the PVC valve delete...??



when I posted "like this one" the picture never showed up... so I will repost Picture of what I put on the Valve cover

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Old 10-06-2012, 09:34 AM   #12
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Air needs to "flow" through the engine for the PCV valve (located behind the intake manifold) to work. If I'm understanding your setup right the valve cover is vented but the PCV valve is stuck closed because there is no vacuum to open it.

Here are some options:

1a)Run a hose from the valve cover to the ground
1b)Pull the intake manifold, pop out the PCV valve, cut the bottom off carefully, remove guts, re-install valve body (its now open all the time because you removed the guts) and run hose to ground, close off intake manifold port (Sporadic did this on his first turbo build, pictures in that thread)

Or you could setup a catch can: (Must be vented!)

2a) Run hose from valve cover to catch can
2b) Gut the PCV valve (same as above), run hose to catch can
2c) Throw that little filter on the top of the catch can so air can escape and the nasty stuff stays in the catch can

I think that would help your oil issues, plus the balance shaft delete for more oil capacity.
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:41 PM   #13
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I would still watch the pump, Usually the light is on due to lack of oil pressure. You never know with man made prducts lol.
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:59 PM   #14
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Well I have a catch can.. just didn't install it yet. Dunno where to bolt it, the PVC valve behind the intake I have never touched and was working last I knew properly. But I planned to gut it per the directions on the PVC Delete thread..

Just filtered right now on valve cover so it sounds like ther eis a flow/vent, didnt plug anything.
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:59 PM   #15
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Is there a Upgraded Pump available?
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:03 PM   #16
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I'm not sure guess you could google it lol
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:43 PM   #17
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Cosworth High Volume Oil Pump Ford Duratec / Mazda MZR 2.0L / 2.3L 01-11
$269

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cosworth-Hig...sories&vxp=mtr


wonder if its worth it..


also this is a good writeup
http://duratec.wikispaces.com/modification-BSD
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:50 AM   #18
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Isn't it a mostly stock engine? Because the oil pump probably is a waste of time and effort. If you are getting low oil pressure, you probably are over-heating the oil. Switch to a synthetic 5w30, or install a cooler.

These engines tend to have low pressure at idle.
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:16 PM   #19
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stock as in what, cams and valves, yes, but I have it at 6000 rpm most of the time. overheating I don't think so.. it is running motorcraft synthetic blend 5/20. but will be swapping back to Royal Purple 5/20 - if the tolorence levels were that of a 50k mile motor I might consider 30 weight, but its less then 3k miles. it would just add more undo pressure. I will be doing more then the CAI and header soon, going with cam, head and intake soon.. Doing everything shy of turbo. Currently at around 185hp
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:02 AM   #20
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Still, I think you are better off switching to a full synthetic at a thicker weight, and adding an oil cooler. I wouldn't worry about the pump unless you are about to tear apart the engine again, and even then, probably would not have the same effect as switching to a better thicker oil.

What are you doing at 6,000 most of the time? Please tell me this is a dedicated track-only car.
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