Engine Mounts - Aftermarket any good? (i.e. westar, etc...) - Page 4 - Focus Fanatics
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:25 PM   #31
KissMyRS
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Please do. I've been doing a lot of research, and reviews are mixed for DEA. However, they don't seem to incite as much hate as the Anchor mounts.

Nobody really seems to mind the Ford mounts. Plus, I've gotten over 140,000 miles out of the original Ford mounts. I think I know which ones I'm spending my money on. I don't have the time to be playing with my car as much as I would like to, so I'm willing to spend a little extra.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:42 PM   #32
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While I stay away from Ford parts as much as possible, on mounts buy Ford and go on about your business. Any other choice is a mistake.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:04 AM   #33
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Installed the DEA mounts. All the vibrations are gone along with the big jerk at start up.
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:31 PM   #34
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I'm learning to rebuild my pass side mounts. Got old Anchors running now without the hydraulic part in them at all. They are as smooth as Ford mounts now. The bottom rubber was still in excellent shape, just the tops blew out of them. I replaced all the junk in there with a big rubber donut after rigging a stud up through the middle to hold it. Cost $20 a piece. Got 3 up and running now, they certainly work better than stock Anchor did.
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:43 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
I'm learning to rebuild my pass side mounts. Got old Anchors running now without the hydraulic part in them at all. They are as smooth as Ford mounts now. The bottom rubber was still in excellent shape, just the tops blew out of them. I replaced all the junk in there with a big rubber donut after rigging a stud up through the middle to hold it. Cost $20 a piece. Got 3 up and running now, they certainly work better than stock Anchor did.
Pics and a how to???
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:30 PM   #36
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Yeah I'd like to see pics of that too. Sounds like a great idea too.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:38 PM   #37
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Interesting. Must show pics.

Wont buy aftermarket aftermarket mounts for stock replacement. Not worth the hassle when they keep going out for so many people. Especially since you can get all 3 mounts from ford for less than $200.
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:13 PM   #38
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You got the right idea.

I don't do pics, I've never even embraced the cellphone although I build my own computers.

You figure out a way to run an extended stud up the middle from the 'neutral' point center that bolts on the bottom to the mount plate. There is bottom rubber left when the top hydraulic part goes, the bottom rubber supports motor weight but also kills vibration in the bottom half or 180 degrees of crank rotation. That rubber does not work as well to damp vibration of the top 180 degrees, rubber damps better under compression than extension. Take a rubber donut, I use 1 inch thick X 4 inch diameter and using the bowl washer left on top of stock rubber as a reaction point, bolt down the donut on top of it to provide compression rubber for the top 180 degrees of rotation. These motors shake more at TDC than BDC because of the secondary imbalance force that ALL 4 cylinders have. That force cannot be reduced except with balance shaft or proper mount. The stock hydro mount reflects some of the upper vibration downwards into the bottom rubber and at a different frequency, but the idea is useless as soon as the mount starts loosening up the hydro parts so they quit working. It happens really quick in cheap crap mounts. I bolt the donut down also putting some support (custom ground PVC plastic hardware plumbing fitting) directly underneath to fill the low space in the center of the bowl washer. That way more of the load is spread across the donut, you want to use as much rubber as possible for force reduction.

Some mounts come with a short 12mm.X1.50 pitch? (I forget) stud, you can use a stud coupler and stud to make it longer to go through donut. Other cheaper mounts simply rivet the hydro plate in place, no stud, I drill them for a 3/8"-24 NF exhaust type stud like found at hardware store. Put big OD and thick washers built up to take force and work to smaller to pilot the ending stud.

Think of the actual mount ring that bolts to motor itself. That ring must move up and down at high frequency in what needs to be rubber both above and below it to damp right. I simply put the upper in place. It works great. The stock bowl washer provides a force transmitting surface for both the upper (mine) and lower (OEM) rubbers to receive mount ring shake from either direction.

Biggest problem now is where to find a supply of that size donut, I looked but did not spend lots of time, ran across an old 1950 attic fan frame I had lying around pulled from my house. Saw the ideal sized donuts on the bottom of frame and an 'Ah-Hah!' moment insued.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:26 AM   #39
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http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296261

Scroll down to steeda423, the purple valve covered pic, mine looks virtually same except rubber instead of red poly.
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