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Old 09-28-2012, 11:55 AM   #11
PWGuy
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Update .. unhooked the battery and reset the ECU .. everything went according to described with the PCM resetting. I also re-cleaned the MAF with electronics spray cleaner (again - did this fall 2011). A few days later, one of the calipers "stuck" and I had both front calipers, rotors, and pads replaced. I then filled it up to the top with gas to test MPG after some mileage. My wife drives 2.9 miles to work each way, every day. Gas is currently at 1/2 tank (110 miles on odo) and the capacity for my car is 13.2 gallons. That works out to 16.6mpg :( :(. I thought FOR SURE the caliper grabbing the rotor caused this since it didn't "just" happen - it just started smoking 3 weeks ago! lol

I haven't cleaned the IAC yet (it's never been cleaned).

So yet to do:

* Clean IAC (never been done)
* Flush tranny fluid and replace filter (never been done)
* Replace rear/lower O2 sensor (never replaced)

Any other ideas? This MPG is disgusting! It makes me want to get rid of the car besides the rust issues..
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:15 PM   #12
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Pull an O2 sensor and look at back pressure
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagone View Post
Pull an O2 sensor and look at back pressure
Sorry, I'm not following the second half of what you suggested - "look at back pressure". What does that mean and how do I do that?
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWGuy View Post
My wife drives 2.9 miles to work each way, every day.
I think this is your culprit. Short drives don't allow the car warm up. My wife drives a Freestar 1.2 miles to work, she averages 13 mpg
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWGuy View Post
I then filled it up to the top with gas to test MPG after some mileage. My wife drives 2.9 miles to work each way, every day. Gas is currently at 1/2 tank (110 miles on odo) and the capacity for my car is 13.2 gallons. That works out to 16.6mpg :( :(..
Or you could learn how to measure your fuel usage properly...

Your fuel tank capacity is irrelevant. Your fuel needle gauge is inaccurate for estimating the fuel remaining.

Fill the tank with gas until the pump clicks off.
Reset trip odometer to zero.
Drive (and consume at least half a tank.)
Fill tank again until pump clicks off. Record the amount used.
Record the trip odometer reading.
Trip odometer reading / fuel used = economy.

2.9 miles? Your car's not even going to reach operating temperature. You're going to get crappy mileage.
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:46 PM   #16
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Ok, I will try warming up the car 5 minutes before my wife leaves to see if the mileage improves.

Thanks for all the suggestions
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_ZX3 View Post
Or you could learn how to measure your fuel usage properly...

Your fuel tank capacity is irrelevant. Your fuel needle gauge is inaccurate for estimating the fuel remaining.

Fill the tank with gas until the pump clicks off.
Reset trip odometer to zero.
Drive (and consume at least half a tank.)
Fill tank again until pump clicks off. Record the amount used.
Record the trip odometer reading.
Trip odometer reading / fuel used = economy.

2.9 miles? Your car's not even going to reach operating temperature. You're going to get crappy mileage.
Thanks
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:47 PM   #18
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So by my math you're filling the car around once a month?

If so, there is the possibility of the fuel separating slightly, lowering Octane.
The Evaporative Emissions could be leaking slightly, fuel is escaping.


If you're going to try and let the car warm up for better MPG, don't let the car run. Buy a engine block heater. Kw/hr if far cheaper.
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:44 PM   #19
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cracked exhaust manifold?
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:33 PM   #20
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It seems like you have the best advice so far. As long as the engine is running smoothly, there should be no other problems.

1) Correct your mileage calculation- use the method BCZX3 suggested.
2) The ECU reset shouldn't be done without doing the A/F reset at the same time. This requires you to idle the engine in P or N for 5 minutes after it is dropped out of high idle mode. When the test is finished, the idle will drop slightly. With her short driving- it might not have reset the A/F yet. I'd go out and start the car and let it idle for 7 mins exactly- TIMED. You can use the electronic odometer trick to see if the idle drops slightly after 6 mins or so. That will indicate it's done. I'd expect idle to be around 1100 for a car that has not passed this test, and 800 (IIRC) for an AT in N. It might be lower, but that is not bad unless the idle is extremely low in gear- like 500.
3) I didn't see mileage, or engine. We've gathered it's an AT, but we need to know the engine. Mileage is important also because if you're approaching 130k+ or so, and the timing belt has not been replaced, that would explain some of the issues.

Honestly, with a 2.9 mile drive, I'd only expect about 21-23 mpg, and yes, as Iminhell suggested, you might be experiencing fuel degradation. If nothing else, I'd give some Sta-Bil a shot- make sure you get the gas type not diesel. Finally- your fuel filter is due for a change. Yes I know, way under the 20k mark, but I do recommend that as 20-30k or 1 year. I change the wife's yearly, she puts about 10k per year on the van. It will be dirty.
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