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Old 08-23-2010, 10:29 PM   #61
copper67440
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I need the numbers and pics would be helpful too. changed the alt with the lights stobing now the batt light is on, wasn't b4.
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:32 PM   #62
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Posted via FF MobileFord dealer will need to look up current # if you need to order one..... There`s only one connector that plugs into the alternator, no possibility of looking at the wrong one.....
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:37 AM   #63
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Update for part numbers and pics.
(I have the unfortunate task of doing this once the connector comes in on Wednesday)
I will take some pics, and update the first post since there's nothing up there anymore.

At any rate:
Ford Part: 1U2Z-14S411-TA
Motorcraft Part: WPT-118
^^^That (MC number) is most likely what the Ford Dealer will find the part number listed as now in the computer.

And yes...I put in a new alternator, and it was in fact that little 3 wire connector.
Visually it looks perfect, but if I pull it out about 1/2 way and wiggle it around just right, I can finally see 14.5 volts versus 12.8 on the volt meter.
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Old 02-27-2012, 11:54 AM   #64
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Just did this fix cause my lights were dimming at random, the gauges were dimming and the radio screen was fluttering on the SVT, welll Im not have as many problems that red wire was definitely loose but I puled that wiring harness 13 inches back and found NO fuseable LINK so I just followed the directions that came with the kit I cut it back 4 inches and soldered in the new harness.


still have a fluttering radio sometimes not as often, I checked all the grounds and they seem good... any other thoughts ill test the alternator and get back
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:00 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by figurado View Post
This thread is really helpful. I had similar problems and saw that the red wire to my alternator connector "clip" was broken. I have the new pigtail kit in hand but getting the old "clip" loose from the alternator is turning into a nightmare. I read the original poster's tip about using a small flat screwdriver but I can't get anything to work. I know I am getting close to breaking the connector on the alternator side while attempting this maneuver. Any tips?
I'm having the same problem with this getting this clip to release. I just replaced the alt 2 weeks ago, & I ended up breaking the alt side of the clip (on the old alt) to get it off. I really don't want to risk breaking the alt side of the clip on the new alt, but it's not playing very nice right now...
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:25 AM   #66
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I replaced the alternator clip this past weekend. Everything seemed to be good for the 1/2 hr test I took the car on, but the next day things started to go downhill again. Now we're experiencing the same battery indicator/stalling/lights/radio problems we had before. (The under-dash clicking hasn't returned yet, but I expect it to.)

Some folks have suggested replacing the (three?) main power cables in the engine, but are those cables a source of the same symptoms of electrical problems that this clip is? And if so, why would they not show up until after replacing the alternator? (I guess I understand the clip failing due to R&R after alternator replacement, but not the main cables!)

I'd rather not just start replacing electrical components in the hope that I hit the right mysterious combination. Is there something else I should be considering?
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:59 PM   #67
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Okay, since there seems to be no additional info from anyone on my previous question, let me ask this:

What is the significance of cutting behind the "fusible link"?

In the first post of this How-To thread, this statement is made:
Quote:
Cut the 3 wires behind the fusible link (about halfway to the main harness).
When I pulled my wires out of the plastic convolute covering, I did not see or feel any fusible link anywhere between the alt clip & the main harness. So, I cut my wires pretty close to the alt clip. Did I miss something important by not finding (and removing) this fusible link?
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:56 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eiron View Post
Okay, since there seems to be no additional info from anyone on my previous question, let me ask this:

What is the significance of cutting behind the "fusible link"?

In the first post of this How-To thread, this statement is made:


When I pulled my wires out of the plastic convolute covering, I did not see or feel any fusible link anywhere between the alt clip & the main harness. So, I cut my wires pretty close to the alt clip. Did I miss something important by not finding (and removing) this fusible link?
I don't seem to have a fusible link on my pig tail either.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:26 AM   #69
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Borg Warner makes the pigtail too, part number PT5751, you can get them at OReilly and Advance, if you don't want to spend the $40+ the dealer now wants for it.
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:53 AM   #70
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alt help!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTFucus View Post
This Friday I decided to find out what was causing my electrical problems. The problems leading up this were:
-flickeing headlights and interior lights
-battery light coming on and off while driving
-"clicking" noise coming from underneath the dashboard

I had read many threads from various boards from buying grounding kits to replacing the alternator clip to correct this problem. Upon closer inspection I noticed that one of my wires had come out of the clip to the alternator, with hope that this was causing ALL of the above symptoms. I bought a new "wiring pigtail kit" from ford and followed the instructions to install it. Below are the pictures(still need to take some more pictures) showing the broken wire, the kit, the butt connectors I used to wire the new clip in place of the old one and the final result.

Sep-2010 Update:
Detailed instructions from FF member CaysE


Sep-2010 Update:
Stay tuned for new pics.

Broken wire:


What the packaging looks like of the kit:


What the kit consists of(new clip, 3 wire connectors, 3 heat shrink tubes):


The butt connectors I used to connect the new wires of the clip, to the wires leading to the old clip:


I will have more of the wires connected, and then of the heat shrink wrapped around the connectors and wires. Just thought I'd show everyone how it looked. Total time it took to install was about 30 minutes.

Also, the clip can be removed from the alternator by using a small flat head screwdriver and sliding the clip off the bracket.

im having these same issues, except the battery light. i installed a high output 200amp alternator and my rockford t1000 loses power. then my lights flicker off and on, so i unhooked the amp and drove around, i noticed when i slowed down and just pressed the gas slightly the dash would click and the lights would flash off and on. ive tried everything to fix this, i cant find any issues.and this is a brand new motorcraft high out put 200 amp. its like the computer is resetting everytime the i rev the engine

Last edited by budpot42; 03-09-2013 at 12:55 AM. Reason: forgot a part
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