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Old 09-25-2012, 11:38 AM   #11
oshoguno
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An alternator charging a dead battery will not read at 14v for a while, but definitely over 12v initially. Unless the alternator is overrated in size which a stock one would not be.
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:23 PM   #12
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An alternator charging a dead battery will not read at 14v for a while, but definitely over 12v initially. Unless the alternator is overrated in size which a stock one would not be.
True, forgot mines an aftermarket alternator. To the op the battery is good but acts dead and the altenator is charging. This leads me to believe a bad ground or maybe a bad fuse.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:32 PM   #13
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Had it tested. Put the battery back in and it started right up and didn't have the symptoms. The reader said the voltage regulator failed. I never had any warning lights or anything. Thanks.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:13 AM   #14
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Did you read the big thread about the alternator connector where the wire breaks in the pin and provides an intermittant connection? It would be a cheap fix.
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:33 PM   #15
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Did you read the big thread about the alternator connector where the wire breaks in the pin and provides an intermittant connection? It would be a cheap fix.
I did not. Will do though. Thanks.
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:17 PM   #16
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http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...rnator+pigtail
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:54 AM   #17
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I ended up replacing the alternator (major pain in the ass). Today wife went out and the car was dead. I jumped it from my truck and it started right up. However, that ticking in the dash is back and the door ajar and seatbelt warning lights flashed with the clicking. Any major electrical draw immediately kills the engine and there is no power to start the car again. So I guess replacing the alternator did nothing. Not sure what else to do. Electrical issues just are not my expertise.
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Old 12-23-2012, 12:41 PM   #18
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Sorry to hear that you are still having problems. If it is not the alternator, pigtail or battery you might have a bad connection somewhere else, like the BCM. If you don't have the electrical chops to go further with this then it is time to get a shop involved. Try searching for a shop that specializes in electrical repairs (depending on where you are located). Dealerships are too expensive and small shops might not have the training and experience. I wish you luck.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:15 PM   #19
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Well I read a few threads here with somewhat similar issues and I went out to look at all of the applicable electrical connections. The positive battery cable was loose. Not very loose, but it was and had some corrosion. I cleaned the cable and the terminal and tightened them up good. Checked all of the other cables and wiring and nothing seemed to be loose. I could swear I had checked all this stuff last time I had this issue.

Hit the key and it started right up. No clicks or anything. Earlier when it died it had no power at all. Could that slightly loose cable have been the culprit all along and cause symptoms months apart? Doesn't seem likely but the car seems fine now. I'd hate to think I replaced the alt and went through the hassle of wrestling the old one out and the new one in for nothing. Either way I guess I will wait and see. The radio is dead though for some reason. It had been acting up anyways so good time to replace it.
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:03 PM   #20
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@ 160K on a stock alternator, just consider it preventative maintenance. It'd of gone out soon anyways.

Do check the "Hatch Wiring" though. It was my initial thought of why your problems started and I didn't see anyone mention it (odd).
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