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Old 09-19-2012, 05:43 PM   #1
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Brakes on Mrk1 rear drums?

I want to eventually swap out to rear disks but am locating money right now elsewhere. My drums are currently stock to my knowledge and I have not changed them in the 60-70k miles I have owned the car. while the car was getting tires and alignment i asked for them to check the rear brakes... and they were not able to get the nut off so they could only look through the small peak hole.

Typically when should the rear drums be replaced? any specific mileage date or age? Or just as needed? and what may be a worthless question but are their any "performance" rear drums and shoes that would be a improvement over the stock drums and shoes?


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Old 09-19-2012, 06:20 PM   #2
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Replacement is as needed. Usually it works out about every other front brake job. Yes there are a couple of performance brake shoe sets available. One is the Mintex AF and the other are the Porterfield R4S. Both can be bought with a matching set (compound wise) of front brake pads as well. As far as drums go there really isn't a performance option. If I remember correctly, Centric has a drum that has more cooling vanes cast into it which may or may not help (but shouldn't hurt either).
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:31 PM   #3
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I have 90% pad left on HPS front pads and power slot rotors so no plans on needing any changes up front any time soon. I think i was told i had about 10% left 30-40k miles back. So might be just worth changing now... i looks like doing the rear brakes is not all that expensive. about $60 a side for drums and then the cost of the shoes. I will look into those parts. I will just need to do a few weeks of solid PB blaster iIefore taking them off.

C-F-M has: http://focus.c-f-m.com/newitemcentri...ocus00-09.aspx
but it shows a 5 bolt patern so not sure if the actual drums have the extra vanes.

Nothing on Rockauto.com has vanes in it (looks like they call it finned)

Edit: So going with Porterfield R4S (look like they are the better performing than the Mintex) and any drum really will provide better than stock but obviously less than a rotor and pad set up. but at a cost of under $250... and have not been able to find a rear disc conv. kit (no SVT's in junk yards) for any where that price.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:58 PM   #4
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Think of it this way, if you can lock up the rear tires under braking, you have plenty of brake back there. If that's the case, the next best stopping improvement you can do is a better set of tires. Afterall they are what actually stop the car.

Drop CFM an e-mail and see what they say. Naturally they can't post a picture of every part application they carry.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
I have 90% pad left on HPS front pads and power slot rotors so no plans on needing any changes up front any time soon. I think i was told i had about 10% left 30-40k miles back. So might be just worth changing now... i looks like doing the rear brakes is not all that expensive. about $60 a side for drums and then the cost of the shoes. I will look into those parts. I will just need to do a few weeks of solid PB blaster iIefore taking them off.

C-F-M has: http://focus.c-f-m.com/newitemcentri...ocus00-09.aspx
but it shows a 5 bolt patern so not sure if the actual drums have the extra vanes.

Nothing on Rockauto.com has vanes in it (looks like they call it finned)

Edit: So going with Porterfield R4S (look like they are the better performing than the Mintex) and any drum really will provide better than stock but obviously less than a rotor and pad set up. but at a cost of under $250... and have not been able to find a rear disc conv. kit (no SVT's in junk yards) for any where that price.
No bearing in those?
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:12 AM   #6
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I have good tires, and if I recall even under the hardest braking I have done it has only locked up the fronts. Granted I have pole position 960's which are all weather ( would like to get back to a summer/winter set combo)

The bearing is another thing it looks like C-F-M does not have them. But will give them a call/email and find out.

Do the vanes / finned drums really so anything more? It does increase surface area, but it looks like you do t get any additional airflow so it would be little improvement. I am not sure if I like the look either, just seeing those reminded me of minivan brakes because that's what I recall mostly seeing those on.

Thanks for the heads up on the shoes, found a place that has them for $80 ( these come in a pair for both sides just like the shoes right?). Now just need to find what drums I want.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:07 AM   #7
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You may want to consider picking up a "hardware kit" to go with the brake change. This will replace all the springs and clips. May not be necessary, but I went back and changed the springs on my autox car when one of the set of shoes continued to drag after multiple adjustments.

Friendly reminder, only do one side at a time when doing the brake shoes, you may want to reference the assembled parts at times.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:24 PM   #8
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I was planing on getting a hardware kit.. only $10 bucks. the one kit is good for both sides? or just one side?

Also the wheel cylinder is only like $15 do these ever go bad on the focus and should I replace it at the same time since its only a 3 bolt replacement? I have the whole front drive-train, engine, and suspension removed so the bleeding of the brakes is a mute point since I have no brakes. If I do replace are the wheel bearings all the same from any focus that had rear drums? or can you get a better version/design from a different year?

Contacted C-F-M they are out of stock at the moment but will be getting more in tomorrow. and they will update the picture then along with better product description and identify if it has a wheel bearing or not.

Also Chilton manual says nut should only be reused 4 times... is that a conservative approach or should you be more aggressive and replace it every time?

Edit: what about the rear small "section" of parking brake cable? only replace that if it rusted to XX condition?

Edit2: And it looks like in more searching the Centric should not be finned or have vanes... so at this point the drums for the focus are basically all created equal? any brand to stay away from?
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