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Old 09-08-2012, 08:49 PM   #1
berndt
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Cool broken exhaust manifold stud

Went to take the exhaust manifold out, to replace it. I suspected a cracked one. Sure enough, after zapping the bolts with some PB Blaster, and letting it sit for 10 or so minutes, I find a big crack almost all the way around the manifold between the 3 and 4th pipe.

The heat shield came off nice and easy. Hit the head studs with some PB Blaster, and let that sit a little while longer. Then those bolts came out real easy! Amazing, I might finish this in a couple hours, I thought. Then I got to the last bolt / stud, closest to the front of the engine, near the power steering pump. Put the socket on it, and gave it a VERY light tug. And it popped right off. It musta been broke already, or ready to go, since I didn't apply much pressure at all!

Looks like it broke off about a threads width into the side of the block. How on earth am I to get that out now? Or just put the new manifold back on and hope it'll work out with out it? 'cause Im really not in the mood for taking the whole mess out to get a square line on it to drill it out, and re-tap it. That'd include the power steering pump, serpentine belt, engine mount, coolant overflow......


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Old 09-10-2012, 01:36 AM   #2
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Is there any threads outside the block you can get onto? If there is a few you can try to heat it up a little bit and try turning it out with vice grips. Or if you have access to a welder you can weld a nut on it and try to work it out.
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:30 AM   #3
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Probably have to take a right angle drill to it and drill a hole for a bolt extractor. Is it possible that this is not the first time the manifold has been off? If so they probably broke it when they re-installed.
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:17 AM   #4
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This link may help you right HERE . Good luck with it I know they are a pain to deal with.
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:26 AM   #5
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OUCH!!! Well be thankful it has the exhaust in the front of the engine compartment. To do this properly you need to remove the cylinder head, but you might be able to do it improperly and get away with it using a couple of tricks.

1) If you can grab it with vise grips- great! Before I tried loosening it, I would apply heat via a propane torch. You won't have to apply much heat, and you don't want to because the aluminum will heat up faster than the steel bolt- which is what you want. You want the aluminum to expand, and the steel to expand as little as possible. Thankfully, those metals of do this without asking.

2) If you can't grab ahold of it, then get you a bolt extractor kit. Find the extractor that is about half the size of your bolt, drill the appropriate hole, test fit the extractor, then heat again before trying. The trick here is the hole. You must make sure that the hole you drill is as centered as possible on the bolt, and is as inline as possible with the bolt. That's the hard part. You might need a file to file down the rough edges of the bolt so you can get a bit to grab where you want it, or you can start with a smaller bit (highly recommended) to pilot the hole you need.

I agree, you probably didn't break it, but it's broke nonetheless, so there you go.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:01 PM   #6
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Thanks for all the suggestions.

Unfortunately, none of them worked out for me. I can't get centered on the bolt to drill for the extractor, since the power steeering pump bracket is in the way. So I tried form an angle, anyway. I got the bolt (which broke well below the surface of the head) to move, maybe one turn, but then nothing.

Im not taking the head out, and im not taking the whole front of the engine off to get a square shot at the bolt.

I just put the new manifold on, minus that one bolt. Had no choice, really, wife needs the car to drive 60 miles to work.

I am due for a timing belt, and I may have a shop do that for me, I'll just have them look at that bolt too, maybe that have a magic tool for it, or can more easily try on of the suggestions above. I don't have the resources for some of those, like welding on a nut, or a gas torch, or whatever...

It sounds a little quieter, but I think most of that sounds is coming from that bolt that was already weakened.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:22 PM   #7
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And the right angle drill is a bit of a specialty tool as well....

good luck - it won't be the first vehicle to run without one of the exhaust studs....

often seals well enough with the rest torqued down right....
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:31 PM   #8
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would there be any purpose in putting a thin film of the exhaust grade "patch" putty on both sides and then bolting up so you get more of a "squishy" gasket that might better seal between the manifold and the head?

This is one reason why I am going with ARP bolts, there appear to be quite a few of these threads over the last few months.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:11 PM   #9
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A right angle drill is what is needed though. It could be borrowed or rented from a shop, a cheapo one bought for about $50 or you might know someone in the trades who can get their hands on one. It is at least worth looking into. An even better idea than my original one is to buy one or two reverse drill bits (the bit cuts when the drill is in reverse). If the bolt turned for you in the block then it isn't that tight and a reverse drill bit, when it cuts, can turn the whole bolt out for you.
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:31 PM   #10
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Took it to very nice local shop, and despite having it for 3 days, and having to get the power steering and alternator bracket out of the way, were able to remove stuck stud, and put it all back together with new gaskets.

It is again, a measure quieter, but still has that old truck sound when I stomp on the gas. Leak from somewhere after the cat? or maybe the EGR itself? The tube to the manifold I know looked fine.
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