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Old 09-05-2012, 03:51 AM   #11
amc49
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The biggest thing missing will be the skills to know when and where to look for the error when it doesn't run. The air pressure and BDC idea can have error in it of up to 5 degrees, there's always bearing, wrist pin slack that makes for a variance.

I never loosen cam sprockets at all, the motor was running before and will run after, the only error you can have that way is at least a full tooth which is easier to find. As touchy as SVTs are I'd be looking to do that on them too. Once you loosen the sprocket you are into minor part of tooth errors, but you gotta be good enough to be able to tension belt and tensioner in range with no timing error. Hard for most.

Use a mark put in line with say a head flat line or similar, putting the line straight up is a mistake, once you look at it a time or two you will find yourself questioning did it run slightly to the left or right? No close hand point of relationship. You'll be second guessing yourself in nothing flat.

I use homemade pin and camtool. The camtool can even be used to custom degree off a bit for playing with nonstock timing.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:01 PM   #12
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Thanks for the tips & collective experience!!

I don't have any leak-down testing equipment, or any special timing/Ford tools for this job. My repair experience over the past 13 yrs has been doing 98% of all of the repair work on my 1990 Saab 900 16v & my son's 1985 Saab 900 8v, & maybe 70% of the repairs to my wife's Saab 9-3 turbo. This Focus wagon is my daughter's first car. She's had it for 2 yrs & it's now 11 yrs old with 156k miles. I don't expect her to keep it for more than another 4 to 6 yrs before wanting something different.

So here's what I think I'm going to do:

Buy a Ford timing belt, serpentine belt, tensioner & water pump from Tousley Ford. Maybe a new hydraulic (passenger) engine mount as well. (I replaced the two rubber mounts last year with RA cheapies.)
Since the car's running well (aside from a recent electrical problem after R&R the alt), I'll use the 'paint stripe' marking method to clock the DOHCs. Based on comments, it seems like a 'T' mark on each cam pulley/block would make sense.
I'll print out the 'How To' instructions for the Zetec & start the job on a Saturday morning, giving myself 2 full days to work on it.

Any additional suggestions or ideas would be highly welcomed!
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:49 AM   #13
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on dohcs I have even made a mark directly across the two gears as well as on the head for foolproof indexing.

one or two more helpful tips, get yourself some of those black heavy duty paper clips. they will go over the belt and clamp it to the cams. get yourself one of those plastic springy woodworking clamps to hold the belt on the crank.

also when adjusting the belt, make sure you have it tight on the side the tensioner doesn't push on or it will go out of time.
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:36 AM   #14
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I'm with the Zetec timing kit and water pump change crowd and although I've read about others not undoing the cam bolts and using the "marking" system on the belt I think as others have said it all depends on your own skill and confidence. For a first Zetec timing belt change I'd go for a "factory" job.

Good luck with the crankshaft bolt:)
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:12 AM   #15
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Zetec timing kit, it makes it mostly idiot proof, if you use the kit. Just one thing to remember, if the timing bar does not fit in the cam slots and the crank is against the timing pin... your cams are upside down, just remove the timing pin, and turn the crank until the cams are mostly upright, re-insert the timing pin, and put the crank against the timing pin.

Also... To get the crank pully off of the crank was hard as the crank wanted to spin, so I put the motor in gear (Manuel transmission) and had my brother hold the brakes HARD) as I put an 18mm on the bolt and wit it with a hammer to break it lose...

The timing kit is $30 on advance auto's web site, Although no one in the store heard of it and said it must have been an online only deal... So I just ordered it.

And since you probably will take the plugs out might as well replace those to...
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:37 PM   #16
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I just did my timing belt and found it pretty reasonable. I purchased the OTC timing belt tool from amazon for around $25. I purchased a Gates timing belt kit 294B with idler and tensioner from rock auto. I also ended up replacing the water pump and serpentine belt, idler and tensioner since I was in there. I have a couple of suggestions:

1) Use the timing belt tools! these make the job way way easier!

2) Loosen the cam gear bolts! Many people on here say you don't need to, but let me tell you it is better to do so. When you loosen the bolts, the belt will tension evenly and your timing will be perfect.

3) There is a great 2-part video tutorial on youtube on how to do this job. I believe the author is srmastertech.

Good luck to you. The job is not that bad

-tmoney12
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FocusGhia View Post
... Good luck with the crankshaft bolt:)


Uh... thanks...?

Is there something I should be aware of of here?
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
... also when adjusting the belt, make sure you have it tight on the side the tensioner doesn't push on or it will go out of time.
Will this instruction be obvious to me once I get in there? 'Cuz I have no idea (yet) which side that is...
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
... go for the gates component kit (TCK# something) I would get the component kit because you don't want a bearing to seize and eat your belt. same with the water pump if its timing belt driven. BUT, it all depends on how tight your budget is and if you can afford to do the job again if the pump starts to grind or seizes up and eats the belt.

Zetec is non interference and IS the dohc engine. the spi is the sohc. if it asks for Vin info, yours is "3"
I spoke with 2 guys here at work (one races Miatas & the other used to be a Ford mechanic) & they both said to just order the timing belt & mark the cam/block unless I'm experiencing other problems (noise? vibration?). Is this Gates kit something I should order from Tousley Ford?

The water pump is driven off the serp belt. The former Ford mech agreed with most here, saying that it would probably fail within 6 mos if I don't replace it when replacing the serp belt. He also said he never replaced the tensioner (or idler?), but the consensus here seems to be "it's as worn as the belt," right? And from more forum reading I've learned that the Gates serp belt & tensioner are the ones to buy, rather than Ford brand. So maybe I just order Gates everything?

I think everyone recommends the Ford hydraulic motor mount, but what about water pump brand?

Thanks again to everyone!

[EDIT]--
The Gates kit #TCK294B (1-belt, 1-idler, 1-tensioner) & Dayco kit #95294K2 both say they're for interference engines. Is this a mis-print? The Dayco kit even states, "SE Model Engine VIN 3"
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Last edited by Eiron; 09-06-2012 at 05:03 PM. Reason: Add info
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:05 AM   #20
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Anyone have a recommendation for Gates vs Ford timing belt & water pump?

And does someone have the correct length on the serpentine belt? It seems from comments here that getting this length right is difficult for many parts desks.
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