rear tires wearing - Focus Fanatics
Ford Focus Forum
HomeContact UsAbout UsGalleryDiscussion ForumsMarketplace


Go Back   Focus Fanatics > Ford Focus Tech Discussions > Wheels & Tires - Sponsored By Tire Rack

Wheels & Tires - Sponsored By Tire Rack The place to go for answers on wheel types, tire sizes, offset, wheel patterns and more.
Sponsored By:
Tire Rack


Search This Forum | Image Search | Advanced Search    
Ford Focus Tire & Wheels FocusFanatics Merchandise

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-16-2012, 10:22 AM   #1
red421
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Fan#: 101605
Location: Wallkill, NY
What I Drive: 2000 silver zx3

Posts: 11
FF Reputation: 1 red421 Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
rear tires wearing

i just bought my 00 zx3 a couple weeks ago and the inside on my back tires are wearing like crazy, im not 100% on what the problem is?

i read somewhere that there is a recall on the upper rear control arms but when i try searching it on google it seems like im not getting anywhere. is ford still responsible for this even though its 2012? has to be some kind of recall experation if there is actually a recall.

if i do replace the control arms myself whats it going to do to the alignment of the back wheels? will it be right or is it going to need adjustment?


red421 is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-16-2012, 10:36 AM   #2
bbcobra
Focus Enthusiast
 
bbcobra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Fan#: 88400
Location: Elkin, NC
What I Drive: 2003 SVT Competition Orange EAP ZX3

Posts: 149
FF Reputation: 1 bbcobra Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (1)
first thing to do is get the alignment checked. improper toe will wear the rear tires on the inside in a hurry.
__________________
03 SVT Focus, Comp Orange, EAP, Eibach sway bars, H&R Race Springs, Koni Sports, steeda shifter, Massive camber arms, toe links, engine mount bushings, sway bar end links.

other car: 2004 SVT Cobra Coupe, Screaming Yellow, 2.76/2lb lower...
bbcobra is online now  
    Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 11:23 AM   #3
ImmortalMort
Focus Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Fan#: 96639
Location: Hanover, Ontario, Canada
What I Drive: 2000 Black SE Sedan SPI

Posts: 56
FF Reputation: 1 ImmortalMort Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
There are round adjusters for your rear control arms, that your springs are seated on. If your bushings aren't seized on, you should be able to turn them to change the length the arms stick out the side of the vehicle. Also, your springs could be wore out & sagging if they haven't been replaced recently
__________________
Its not turbo lag... Its foreplay.
ImmortalMort is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 01:13 PM   #4
Mr.Bergner
coffee, have some
 
Mr.Bergner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Fan#: 32799
Location: Overland Park, KS
What I Drive: 2004 TW Blue ZX3

Posts: 5,966
FF Reputation: 53 Mr.Bergner Excellent Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (12)
MOVED TO: Wheels, Tires, Brakes & Suspension - Sponsored By Tire Rack
__________________
2004 ZX3 MTX - Twighlight Blue
2001 ZX3 S2 ATX - JAN 2009 ROTM - SOLD
Moderator for [Ford Focus & General Car Chat][Ford Focus Non-Performance Discussions]
Hatch Nation #29_____________________________________________________________________________ _ _ _ _ _ _
Mr.Bergner is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 01:51 PM   #5
BLRich1
Nope, Chuck Testa
 
BLRich1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Fan#: 22758
Location: Lincoln, NE
What I Drive: '14 TB ST3, '04 Silver SVT

Posts: 6,142
FF Reputation: 17 BLRich1 Great Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (6)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbcobra View Post
first thing to do is get the alignment checked. improper toe will wear the rear tires on the inside in a hurry.
This.

rear toe should be set to near 0. "with in spec" is still too far our in many cases.
__________________
My Rides:
'14 Tuxedo Black ST3
'13 Ingot Silver Escape Titanium AWD
'04 CD Silver SVT, #877, 1 of 135 May 2011 ROTM, FF11: Best Display, Best of Show; AFN12: Best SVT, Best Audio, Finest Five, Carlisle Nifty Fifty
BLRich1 is online now  
    Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 04:56 PM   #6
thenorm
Focus Fanatic
 
thenorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Fan#: 14947
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
What I Drive: '04 liquid grey ZX3, built for FSP

Posts: 1,946
FF Reputation: 33 thenorm Great Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (5)
+1

toe is out of spec.
__________________
May 2014 ROTM
for auto-x: '04 Liquid Grey ZX3
for street: '02 Infrared SVT
thenorm is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 05:08 PM   #7
Geezer
Focus Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Fan#: 1427
Location: Westminster, CO
What I Drive: 99 miata, 05Mazda6, 09GTI, 12Imprez

Posts: 8,023
FF Reputation: 141 Geezer Excellent Standing Member Geezer Excellent Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
There's lots and lots of threads regarding this issue. A quick search would have revealed all the solutions.

Yes, the focus rear end is very tempermental regarding proper rear alignment. The problem is that the Focus was often delivered from the factory with lots of rear camber (albeit within Ford specs). The rear toe range is also pretty broad. The ideal rear settings are no more than -1.5 degrees of rear camber and 0.04 inches of rear toe-in (especially if the car is lowered). Rear camber is not adjustable. You will need to get an aftermarket adjustment devise such as camber bolts or adjustable upper or lower control arms. Camber bolts are the cheapest and work just fine for most cars.

Yes, Ford did have a service campaign years ago. They would replace the upper control arm to reduce negative camber. The problem is that your car had to be outside Ford's recommended spec range (which was already way to broad and is what caused all the problems in the first place) so very few if any people qualified for the replacement control arms.
Geezer is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2012, 01:00 PM   #8
car+guy
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Fan#: 103110
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
What I Drive: '09 SEL Gray

Posts: 2
FF Reputation: 1 car+guy Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Solution to rear tire inside edge wear on Ford Focus all models, all years:
The primary reason is too much negative camber for too little weight. This causes the tires to travel on the inside edges rather than on the tread surface. The most typical “solution” offered by Ford and Tire Retailers is to “rotate more frequently”, but this just wears 4 edges rather than 2 when alignment is within spec. Ford did not make camber setting adjustable, so you have to modify a suspension component, the upper control arm to hub connection point. Ford will not do this for you.
Purchase an aftermarket “camber bolt” set; <$35. I used the Specialty Products Company part number 81310. I think this is the most common and found at local auto parts retailers, and on the internet. The following instructions are for this bolt, to remove “negative camber”; i.e. make the wheel perpendicular to the ground (or almost).
The kit comes with 2 bolts, each with 2 “washers”, and nuts. The bolt is installed in the upper control arm where it joins with the hub, one on each side of the car. The installation is as follows:
1. Set the parking brake. Break the lug nuts free on rear wheels. Block (chock) the front wheels.
2. Jack up the rear of the car, and support with floor jack stands. I placed stands under lower control arm bracket.
3. Remove the rear wheels
4. Remove the bolt from the upper control arm at the hub. (Repeat these steps on the other side of the car)
5. The weld nut is still on the hub frame, and must be removed. This is the only tricky part, so take your time. I used a “Dremel tool” with a cut-off wheel. I had a 90 degree drive on the dremel tool as it improved control, and allowed easier access. Wear safety glasses. The weld nuts have 3 points where they are welded, as seen by imprints on the collar of the nut. The object is to cut only 1 weld free. Cut where the weld nut joins the hub, in effect, sliding the cut-off wheel between the hub frame and the weld nut edge. After making as deep a groove as possible without getting close to the brake line (be careful); use a hacksaw. Remove the blade from the hacksaw and reassemble in place with the blade below the brake line and hacksaw frame above the brake line. Take your time and saw carefully between the weld nut and hub frame. Eliminating 1 weld spot and making a grove is the objective. When you have sawn as much as possible, remove the hacksaw. Take a small cold chisel that fits down into the grove, and give it a whack. The cold chisel acts as a wedge to separate the parts (objective is side-ways pressure). The other 2 weld spots will pop loose. Weld nut gone, “hard part” done.
6. With the dremel tool cut a notch on the top edge of bolt head, aligned with the high-cam lobe on the bolt shaft, so you know where high-cam is after installation (Also, in the future ,to make sure it has’nt moved for some reason).
7. Coat the bolt shaft and cam with anti-seize lubricant. Leaving the “washer” on the bolt, with the big tab pointing out, install the bolt. Make sure the little tab on the washer fits into the hole on the hub frame (this is the adjustment mechanism). The cam on the bolt now sits inside the upper control arm bolt hole.
8. Install the other washer (big tab out, little tab in hub frame bolt hole) and nut. Thread on the nut until the little tabs cannot escape from the hub bolt holes (snug but not tight). Positioning adjustments are ready to be made to reduce negative camber.
9. Rotate the bolt head until the notch you made (high-cam) points to the center of the car (away from you). Keep it in this position while doing the next 2 steps.
10. Rotate both washers’ big tabs by tapping with a pin-punch and hammer. Take your time. The little tab has to stay inside the hub frame bolt hole. Be careful of brake line and brake bleeder valve. If the big tabs are toward the center of the car (away from you on the back side of the bolt), the hub frame hole has been extended to its maximum outward position (via the little tab). In effect the control arm has been “lengthened”, making the hub more vertical.
11. Tighten the bolt. Hold the bolt head, so cam position does not change, and tighten nut. You’re done.

Now would you like to know what the new camber setting is? If yes, here’s a “shade-tree mechanic’s” way of checking. If done properly I bet it’s more accurate than a 4 wheel alignment for $80.
1. Take the car around the block to allow everything to “settle in”.
2. Park the car on level ground. (My garage cement floor is perfect)
3. Take a 2-foot carpenter’s level (plumb-bob string?) . Stand it on-end next to the wheel. Make sure the bubble, perpendicular to wheel, shows it is absolutely vertical. Holding in vertical position, on the center-line of the wheel, measure the distance to the bottom edge of the wheel; measure the distance to the top edge of the wheel. The wheel edge may have some surface contours so position the car so the same contour on top and bottom align vertically through the center-line of the wheel. There should be some measurable difference. In my case, the top distance measured 1/8” greater than the bottom on each rear wheel. I have 16” wheels, so multiplying each by 8 gave a ratio of 1:128. The question is what degree of negative camber does this represent?
4. I’m terrible at math, so I went to the web… http://www.1728.org/gradient.htm Select “RATIO”.
Enter “Input rise” = 1; Input run = 128. Select “Calculate”. My car now has a negative camber of .447 degree. For the 2009 Focus the range is 0.0 – 2.0 according to local alignment shop.
If the results are “not enough negative camber”, loosen the bolts and tap the washers around until correct degree is achieved. To my knowledge it is not required both rear wheels have exactly the same camber (shops only seem to care that each is within range). If you would like to know how successful this process is, you could perform this same measurement before starting the job; allowing comparison of before and after.
There are many considerations for the desired amount of negative camber including weight typically carried in the rear, aggressiveness of driving, etc. The internet is full of good articles.
If the inside edge of the tire is not only wearing but also “cupping” (also called “feathering”); then worn suspension parts may be the cause. Most common is the shock absorber. My opinion is, with an entry level vehicle, Ford did not spend too much on the rear shocks. These are easily changed to an aftermarket product with more responsive characteristics. But, removing negative camber will always help as the entire tread surface is now in contact with the road, not just the inside edge.
If this method did not provide enough correction, there is a more expensive alternative. Moog offers an adjustable upper control arm replacement; approximately $275 for the pair. These are usually used when the car is “lowered”. I have not tried these, as it was not necessary in my case. Frankly, I think maybe this is used to shorten the control arm, not lengthen it, so I’m not sure if this is a solution for a “stock” Focus.
It takes a long time to describe, but I can do the entire job in < 2 hours. The first time it took >4 hours because I was figuring out all the stuff I just described. In my case, visually from the rear, confirms the tires are now vertical, compared to “before” when they looked slanted to the inside… like this / \ (well, not quite THAT bad).
Hmmm…I wonder if I turned the washers so big tabs were in opposite directions (1 in, 1 out), could toe-in be changed? Not that I would, but interesting thought. Seems knowledge just raises more questions.
Good Luck,
Brian Ebels – bpebels@comcast.net. If you would like a Word Doc send me an email.
car+guy is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2012, 02:02 PM   #9
thenorm
Focus Fanatic
 
thenorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Fan#: 14947
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
What I Drive: '04 liquid grey ZX3, built for FSP

Posts: 1,946
FF Reputation: 33 thenorm Great Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (5)
wall of text Crits you for 999,999,999 dmg.

game over.
__________________
May 2014 ROTM
for auto-x: '04 Liquid Grey ZX3
for street: '02 Infrared SVT
thenorm is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks & Social Networks
-->
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:07 PM.


Copyright 2002-2014 FocusFanatics.com. All Rights Reserved : Terms of Use : Privacy Policy : Advertise Information

Focus Fanatics Ford Focus Forum offers many fun ways for you to engage with other Ford Focus Owners from across the world. Whether it be about the aftermarket performance modifications, technical how-to's, European tuned suspension or awesome fuel economy similar to the Acura TLX or Fiesta ST. You can find all Ford Focus and Focus ST related information here. Join our Ford Focus discussion forums and chat with local Focus enthusiasts in your area.