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Old 08-11-2012, 09:05 PM   #31
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So use brake clean and if the joint feels like it needs to be replaced do so? Or use high pressure water and simple green?
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:18 PM   #32
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Got the last part needed for my exhaust before getting it all welded up.



This is a M22 x 1.5 30 flair adapter that should fit the EGR pipe. Will drill out the hole for this in the right location and will have EGR ability with the SVT header.

For those interested and if it fits ( got this while at work so still need to fit check on the pipe) this is a Parker adapter 8-8HMKAS Komatsu adapter. Got it for $12 at the local distributor for Parker after they had to order them in.

Fingers crossed! Might get the tie rod end out of the passenger side knuckle today also... big day!
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Last edited by SkyPilot; 11-26-2012 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:48 PM   #33
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All I gotta say is, dayum!!! Nice progress, one of the few on here with an actual build.
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:28 PM   #34
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Thanks! I wish the build was going a little faster but as I have funds I work on it...

It Fits!!!! Whoo hooo! So the plan is to grind down the threads on one side, drill out the header in the right location and then couture the mating surface of the new fitting to match the curve of the header tube.




So, what took me weeks of searching and trying to find for all those that need to keep emissions on their exhaust upgrades: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...87&configtype=
Only fear is the welding, this is zinc plated steal and welding it onto stainless. should be good right? will most likely just need to TIG weld? or will MIG be fine?

Now to work on the Tie Rod end. I have pressed it as shown below:


I left it this way all day nice and tight when I was at work. I knew there was a reason why I bought a pack of 10 of the freeze plugs… I am going to tighten the nut back down first to hope and clean up the threads and then back it off. Fingers crossed, just hope the grease from the bottom that may have gotten on the shaft of the fitting will not impact it still from not spinning.

Don’t think I need to remove the inners from the rack. I have not had problems with them. And with the knuckles off it will be more manageable to clean up the rack. Just need to figure out how to remove the PS line from the cooler on the High side (the fitting on the cooler on the driver’s side)?

Edit: Well got the Nut off. The hammer trick does not work at this moment, needs to be attached to the car still? Gave it a few good wackes with a small hammer (no 3lb sledge) and was still tight in the socket. This was attempted on my way out this morning for work so did not have to much time to play with it nor want to cause to much noise at 6am (live in town home)
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:18 AM   #35
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Thought I would give a status. Got the disconnect tool needed to remove the PS line from the cooler. Funny how you have to get a small plastic tool like that for only one connection. Could Ford not have chosen a type of hose interconnect standard and use that type of connection for all junctions? O well, only $10. Got the steering rack out and started cleaning it up. The inter tie rods are still nice and tight in their sockets so will be leaving them. Not sure about the outer's.

As long as the joint is solid with no play and does not flop around and the boot is in good condition the joint should be good right? or are there any tricks of the trade to determine the joint's life?

I have cleaned 1/2 of the rack and then fine SS brush "polished" the clean section up. Still have the other side of the rack to clean up, there is a lot of caked on crap on this thing.

With pulling the high and low pressure feed lines, do I need to replace the o-rings on them? or only if they appear damaged?



Last thing I have to worry about cleaning up is the air compressor. I wish I had some easy way of evacuating the system so I could pull the compressor to clean it up. Right now it being supported with bungee cords to relieve stress on the hose connections but is harder to clean up... just will just go through a few cans of brake clean.

I have prepared the shafts of the tie rod's to be painted in black POR-15 from the inner tie rod to the threads where the other joint screws on.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:01 AM   #36
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Nice thread! Really interesting and informative. Definitely subd and keep up the awesome work!
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:33 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantz12 View Post
Nice thread! Really interesting and informative. Definitely subd and keep up the awesome work!
Thanks. I am going camping this weekend so I am trying to figure out what I can take with me to still "work" on the car. After starting to get my MBA part time and work full time I find even less time to work on it, so I will find what time I can. I think I will work on some more cosmetics, pain and prep of parts for pain.

I got the shafts of the tie rods painted with two coats of the POR-15 and it looks slick. Still have to finish cleaning up the other side though... you just get kind of tired of spraying simple green, using brushes, towels, Q-tips, Dremel. But I want everything to be clean going back in. When it eventually gets done it will be as clean as the day it rolled of the line... at least the front end.

My Dremal went out on me a few weeks back also (when I turn it on it only goes max speed) I think I blew out the power transistor and just need to find a comparable replacement. Is it a bad sign when your having to fix tools that you got to fix your car and your car is still not even close to being put back?

Also, in moving forward, I am guessing since I have the cross-member and steering all out it will be easier to reinstall the motor and transmission and all that first and then bolt up the cross-member and suspension components?
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:13 PM   #38
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Well it has been a while due to not having time or money. But have gotten some work done over the last few months. Removed the rear drums so I can convert over to rear SVT disc brakes. Will install with Power Slot and Hawk HPS pads (same as what I have up front) and will be using Stainless Steel lines.



Right now I am waiting to find a kit, or go to the local junk yard, their is a lack of Foci and lack of any with rear disc brakes in my area.

Also worked on the EGR bung for the SVT header.



I have the hole drilled in the header to be just the right size and ground down and cut at an angle the adapter. I used just a small tack of super glue to keep it where I want it so it is not moving on me when I do the first weld tack. The adapter only protrudes into the airflow by a millimeter or two. A complete contrast to what was done before (above in post #16)

Will be using a MIG welder in the next week or two to weld it in place. Will also be swinging by an exhaust shop to pick up 2-3" of some excess exhaust grade stainless steel so I can bend to patch the other large hole in my header. Plan on welding this patch and the Oil adapter / bung on the oil pan and then I will be done with welding.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:21 PM   #39
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Got the header welded up.





Use a MIG welder with Argon to go the welding. While welding the header patch the setting was a bit hot so did blow through a few small areas. was able to weld up the holes and used my Oxygen Acetylene torch to reheat and flow the weld to require less grinding.

I was able to get the EGR bung flown quite nicely and requires no real grinding. Could not get the patch as nice looking so has required more grinding.

I got the patch welded up on to the top side to take care of the large hole. I still have a little bit of grinding. that can be seen on the first image. I also need to grind down the inside, runner a little where the patch went. The two locations where I blew through the header has some blobs of weld on the inside that I want to grind down. Need to get one of the flex attachments to a dremmel so i can get the 3-4" into the runner and grind it down.

Unfortunately the oil pan was not as good.... it was fine when I did the MIG welding but worried that I did not have good flow or completely sealed off between the bung and the flange I think I ruined the pan.

I think I overheated the metal while I was flowing the metal. After getting the "slag" off I found the following.



I don't think this is salvageable. In my free time I may try to weld it up. But I plan on getting a pan from Tom. I think this welding may need to be done by a TIG or someone with a lot more experience than my self.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:51 PM   #40
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Nice updates keep the coming!
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