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Old 07-22-2012, 07:58 PM   #61
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A 13 sec pass is a piece of cake in my focus, granted, I have stuffed 100K into it. Motor from Japan, Brembo Drum to Disc conversion on the rear, lightened flywheel, 2lb rims with High-Performance Low-Profile tires, a twin turbo, and a complete engine rebuild and tuneup. Granted, like I said, I have 100K into the car, but I run low 10's to high 9's. I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor, but for your budget and everything else, it will be a challenge.
Do you know Johhny Tran? He had at least a hundred grand under the hood of his S2000, maybe you two should compare notes.
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:46 PM   #62
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I haven't read the entire thread because I'm sure with these sorts of things most of it is complete nonsense or sparks of a impending flame war.

Here's it is simple....

You can use nitrous, however a 50-75hp shot is not going to get it done. Nitrous is torque not boost, you don't need a converter really, its just a waste of money. You do however need better clutches inside the transmission and more aggressive shifting (left in D).

You will need to open up the exhaust, don't worry about cold-air intakes, save that money for some sticky tires, just go with a basic K&N drop-in.

A decent cat-back from Truebenz and a good header will help the most here.

I would also invest in a bottle warmer you need at least 700psi for best mixture as nitrous needs to be in semi-gaseous form not fully gas or fully liquid.

Next I would invest in a progressive controller. If you want a recommendation just ask.

Without a controller, Nitrous Express used to go to Thrifty Rental car and get a Dodge Neon Sport with automatic and the DOHC engine, the slowest combination. Why? Because of the way the DOHC makes its power, the automatic never shifts high enough in the powerband to take advantage of the power it has over the SOHC engine. The SOHC/Auto combo is quite a bit faster in the 1/4.

Anyway, they used to strap on a NX kit with bottle heater (adjustable), set at 75hp (dyno's a bit higher actually) and it would run mid 14's all day long at LACR (3,300 above sea level).

Because of the nitrous instant torque it will spin the tires out of the hole, so they would launch without using the nitrous and then mash it once the car got going. Easy to repeat and simple technique.

However with a set of BFG, Dunlop or Hoosier Drag Radials and a Progressive controller you don't need to worry about tire spin or having to get up on the converter at launch.

A friend of mine used to run 12.7's with a stock 2.4L swap Neon coupe. I told him to get some slicks, clutch, controller, turn up the nitrous to 100-125hp that was it.

Another friend of mine had an automatic 2nd gen Neon which is about 200lbs heavier than the original Neon. He ran 14.8's with a 50hp shot, Pacesetter header, Exhaust and BFG 14" drag radials to help with the gear ratio. A stock Automatic is a 16 second car to give you reference.

Like I said NX kits based on bottle pressure will dyno higher than jet settings. That same 50hp shot on the dyno actually put down 78hp/100ft of torque.

So my suggestion is -

Get a good cat-back exhaust and header. With your current nitrous kit, get a bottle heater and blow-down tube. Some tracks check, some don't better to be prepared.

Get a progressive controller, if you want a cheap but effective unit get the NOS - http://www.holley.com/15974NOS.asp or Wizard of NOS - http://www.noswizard.com/index.php/n...ontroller.html

Don't argue these work and work well and no it won't blow up your engine if you use the standard one range colder plugs and good gas. For 100+hp shot, you need to run E85 or 100 octane unleaded.

This is where a tune would come in, don't get an off the shelf flash, everybody's car is different. Its fine for a base program but unless you have the software suite you can't adjust global timing maps for example.

Progressive controllers work on the same principle as turbo or supercharger instead of a linear flow like you would with a standard system, as engine speed increases it bleeds off more cylinder pressure, which means you can add more pressure without increasing cylinder pressure beyond the breaking point of the engine. The key is delaying the full flow of nitrous. This used to be done by using 2/3 Stage nitrous systems but since the advent of progressive controllers even the most powerful systems aren't more than two now days and many only run one.

So progressively feeding your engine nitrous (air), as long as the is additional fuel to keep the A/F fairly rich (why I would only go with wet kits) you can increase the flow of nitrous (time based) as the engine speed increases.

You can also help traction by say launching on a setting that would give you about 50hp, which on a set of warm, sticky BFG's will stick. My friend best 60ft time on BFG's, 50hp on hot BFG's was 1.9, compare that to your stock 60ft time...

For every 1 tenth you drop out of the hole, you drop two tenths at the end of the strip. Its much easier to reach your goal if you can just get the car out of the hole. You only need to go about 95-97mph to run 13.99.

I would start with a your car stock, some BFG's and 75hp shot to see where your at and then make changes as needed. You can run 50hp on stock plugs and 91 octane but I would recommend you put in one set colder ahead of time just so you don't have to change later.

PM me for more details because then we can get into fine tuning with jetting and reading your spark plugs.
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:11 AM   #63
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A lot of great info! One day I hope to revisit this!
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:30 PM   #64
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I haven't read the entire thread because I'm sure with these sorts of things most of it is complete nonsense or sparks of a impending flame war.

Here's it is simple....

You can use nitrous, however a 50-75hp shot is not going to get it done. Nitrous is torque not boost, you don't need a converter really, its just a waste of money. You do however need better clutches inside the transmission and more aggressive shifting (left in D).
Hold on here are you seriously saying a converter is a waste of money? You must not know anyone who installed a high stall converter in their car, if you did they would tell you it's one of the single best mods you can do to any automatic car. I have a Edge Racing 3500 stall and it is quite amazing how much faster it gets the car going drag racing and around the street.

What is a waste of money is clutches in a transmission if you don't need them. What you really do need is a plate and fin transmission cooler and higher line pressure especially for only a 50-75 shot. I recommend an upgraded valve body.

The rest of your information about nitrous is a great read.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:03 PM   #65
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On avererage 1/10 on the 60 is worth 2 to 3/10's in the quarter so a converter is needed.
as a matter of fact, my plan to get the mustang in the 12's involve a converter and a tune But only if the tun is nessissary for 12's
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:23 AM   #66
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On avererage 1/10 on the 60 is worth 2 to 3/10's in the quarter so a converter is needed.
as a matter of fact, my plan to get the mustang in the 12's involve a converter and a tune But only if the tun is nessissary for 12's
I agree, I'm going back to the track next week but the first time testing it I dropped 2/10th's on my 60ft in horrible weather with issues with my car. That's going from a 2200 rpm converter to a 3500rpm street converter.

I have no doubts in normal 70degree weather the car will pull 3/10th's better on the 60ft alone with the improved converter. That's good for over 1/2 a second in the 1/4.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:59 PM   #67
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Let me know how you do
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Wheel gap is like a vagina the more fingers you can fit in the worse it is.
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:19 AM   #68
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Hold on here are you seriously saying a converter is a waste of money? You must not know anyone who installed a high stall converter in their car, if you did they would tell you it's one of the single best mods you can do to any automatic car. I have a Edge Racing 3500 stall and it is quite amazing how much faster it gets the car going drag racing and around the street.

What is a waste of money is clutches in a transmission if you don't need them. What you really do need is a plate and fin transmission cooler and higher line pressure especially for only a 50-75 shot. I recommend an upgraded valve body.

The rest of your information about nitrous is a great read.
I would recommend a converter if he wanted to really go fast, but with just a basic nitrous kit? I'd be more concerned with keeping the bottle pressure up.

That 2nd gen Neon I mentioned later added a Coan converter and shorter (higher number) final gear ratio with a manual valve body. He later wrecked it and bought an SRT-4 like I did, so we will never know how well it would have run.

He also had plate-fin Moroso trans cooler. He doesn't have to upgrade the clutches it was just a suggestion if wants to run his car hard and have it live.

Nitrous makes so much torque you don't need a converter really. Great if you wanna spent the money, but he'll get more out of a set of sticky tires.

Thanks for the compliment I've been a NX dealer for, ummm ten years...
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:31 AM   #69
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On avererage 1/10 on the 60 is worth 2 to 3/10's in the quarter so a converter is needed.
as a matter of fact, my plan to get the mustang in the 12's involve a converter and a tune But only if the tun is nessissary for 12's
Get some a CAI, 3.73's and get a flash from Lund - http://www.lethalperformance.com/jon...stom-tune.html

Is it a mod motor?
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:30 AM   #70
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I am still debating where to get my tune for the stang. I have it narrowed down to Bama, evolution performance or lethal performance.
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