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Old 07-08-2012, 07:56 AM   #1
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Another SGM MKIII Build Dyno Thread!

In the sake of having information available to those who want to see random dyno testing that I do on my car, I've decided to open this thread here. I will simply copy and paste my previous posts here, and update only this thread for any performance testing/installs I do here. Up to mods discretion, naturally.

Here is my post from dyno testing this weekend:

Ok, wall of text to describe my data, then dyno charts below and analysis following.

First, the heat disclaimer. I didn't get the comparison between my originally posted dyno and these, but even on the SAE corrected numbers there is a constant 5hp/5ft lb decrease across the powerband. I believe that this is due to the 15+ degree increase from the last dyno runs and the current data. For dyno 8/9/10 I will post SAE, Uncorrected with Conditions; all others will just be SAE.

We tried to keep the dyno process as uniform as possible in order to keep the numbers as accurate as we could. The large variance in my initial dyno was due to making constant pulls with minimal cool-down, so we tried to avoid back-to-back pulls and also tried to avoid letting the car sit for long periods of time. Each different setup got one initial pull plus an additional pull to duplicate the graph. After the first three pulls (getting the DCT process ironed out), we collected data with the car in various setups to determine exactly where gains were seen. Dyno breakdown is as follows:

Runs 4/5- Oem configuration. Snorkel, borrowed filter, w/lunchbox

Runs 6/7- K&N drop-in, snorkel, w/lunchbox

Runs 8/9- K&N drop-in, snorkel delete, ram-ish mod, w/lunchbox

Run 10- K&N drop-in, snorkel delete, ram-ish mod, w/o lunchbox

Run 4:

Runs 5-7:

Runs 8-10 SAE:

Runs 8-10 Uncorrected/Conditions:

What have I learned from this data? Feel free to draw your own conclusions, but my determination is that our engine is nearly maxed out on air intake with the addition of the K&N drop-in and ram-ish mod. I say nearly because I do believe that the difference in my current setup when compared to other CAI's on the market will be covered upon the installation of the Griffin Ram Air (Newmission) mod. It appears to me, from the graphs that I have in comparison to manufacturer/members graphs, that we should be very similar in the end-state.

I do intend on fabricating an actual piece for my ram air, along with some pieces to augment the Griffin Mod, but the end-state will be the same as all of the piping will be of essentially the same diameter. I would be willing to bet that the Griffin Mod allows for enough air to not even need the ram-ish mod, but I'm going to do it anyways just because I can.

Also, as expected, the lunchbox delete did not contribute to any power increase. It does, however, remove some dead weight and contributes to a better (not perfect) sound. Definitely, imho, worth the minute of Sawzall (any Sawzall time is fun) time. I will be looking to pick up the required components to make a 2.25" dump right behind the rear drivers-side splash guard. I'm not shooting for the best looking exhaust, just something different than what everyone else is doing. And anything will beat the ugly stock turn-down.

Other noted issue: The removal of the exhaust leaves the already weakly supported (aka-flapping) rear valance even more of an air catch than before. I am going to fab a bent angle (nothing spectacular) to attempt to not only support it but hopefully deflect some of the under-car air from accumulating in that location. Maybe some pop-rivets to secure it. Someone really needs to come up with a diffuser to alleviate this issue.

Ok, wall-of-text over, thanks for reading. Feel free to discuss.


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Old 07-08-2012, 08:04 AM   #2
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Here is my dyno info from my previous run (cooler weather). This is a hybrid from my informational posts and dyno chart posts of the runs:

Started the morning on the dyno, with my buddies Tuxedo Black Ti waiting patiently so that I could get a baseline with the stock filter. Did a quick pull so that he could get going and came up with 142 hp on the OEM filter. This was the uncorrected number, and unfortunately we had set the calibration incorrectly so the torque number was unusable. Unless you care to believe that I made over 240 ft lbs. Then, it was a bad-azz Ti.

I threw the OEM filter back in my buddies car so that he could get off to his son's baseball game. I threw my K&N filter back in, we re-calibrated the dyno, and made a few more pulls. The most usable number was 156 hp, 144 ft lbs (SAE).

Here is the uncorrected chart-

Here is the SAE corrected chart-
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:08 AM   #3
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Here is a pic of my snorkel-delete/ram-ish mod. Ghetto for right now, I'll fabricate something prettier and more functional in time.



Note: A little fuzzy, but you are looking under the black plastic shield that attaches to the upper radiator mount. The rubber piece that some are curious about is under the plastic piece (tackle box lid, I said it was ghetto already) and the opening of light is where the air enters under the drivers-side whisker. The plastic is jammed under the painted portion of the bumper and butts up against the radiator mount underneath the stock air inlet pass-through.
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:21 PM   #4
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Take a look at what I did. It will give you some ideas I am sure.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283879
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zx3matt View Post
Take a look at what I did. It will give you some ideas I am sure.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283879
Lol, we basically did the same thing, awesome! My resonator hole is currently blocked too from when I was prepping for the Newmission mod and ran out of time.

So did you remove the whole plastic/rubber piece, or did you just cut it? I briefly looked in there, but didn't really have time to try and figure it out.
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyn085 View Post
Lol, we basically did the same thing, awesome! My resonator hole is currently blocked too from when I was prepping for the Newmission mod and ran out of time.

So did you remove the whole plastic/rubber piece, or did you just cut it? I briefly looked in there, but didn't really have time to try and figure it out.
I cut it straight across on the drivers side. It's already relieved for the Oval, so I just started there and sliced towards the drivers fender. Cuts like buttah!
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumStick View Post
I cut it straight across on the drivers side. It's already relieved for the Oval, so I just started there and sliced towards the drivers fender. Cuts like buttah!
There really is no point in me not cutting it. I just have the tendency to try remove/replace before cut. But my buddy Sam Adams is here, I'm sure he supports this. Where's my blade?
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:11 PM   #8
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There really is no point in me not cutting it. I just have the tendency to try remove/replace before cut. But my buddy Sam Adams is here, I'm sure he supports this. Where's my blade?
If it was possible to get that out w/o removing the ENTIRE bumper skin, I would have. Now my warranty is void on the little rubber deflector. Hope the motor doesn't blow up because racecar.
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:17 PM   #9
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If it was possible to get that out w/o removing the ENTIRE bumper skin, I would have. Now my warranty is void on the little rubber deflector. Hope the motor doesn't blow up because racecar.
Oh crap, I forgot about the warranty! But you reminded me too late, now I can't racecar just in case. But that's ok. Why? Because MOARAIR!
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:54 PM   #10
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Oh crap, I forgot about the warranty! But you reminded me too late, now I can't racecar just in case. But that's ok. Why? Because MOARAIR!
We're sorry, the previous message did not include a smiley. Please deposit $.25 and the next available operator will raise the people's eyebrow and direct you to the Pain Hotel, which is on the corner of Jabroni Dr. and Smackdown Ave.
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