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Old 06-24-2012, 04:24 PM   #11
Chaddz3
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Part 2 - Installing the Lights and Harness..

Since my lights and bezels are here. I figured I would install them Today and move closer to completing the install...

NOTES: The Passenger side light is the harder of the two to install...

1. Make sure the Ignition switch and Light Switch are in the OFF position before beginning...

2. Raise the front of the car and secure on jackstands... (if your really really skinny.. you can skip this step.. BUT it makes it MUCH easier to do if you got the car up in the air so you can comfortably (as much as possible) work on it.

3. Gather up the parts you'll Need:



Qty: Part Number Description: Source:
2 Not Available Factory OEM Fog Lamp SAE Parts http://www.ebay.com/itm/140626700271...witem=&vxp=mtr

1 330-2513L-UD Depo Aftermarket Foglamp Bezel amautoparts
1 330-2513R-UD Depo Aftermarket Foglamp Bezel amautoparts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130683634511...witem=&vxp=mtr

1 N/A Wiring Harness built in step 1 above......

4 1/4 - 3/4 1/4" x 3/4" Cap Hex Bolt
4 1/4 - 20 1/4" - 20 Locknut with Nylon Insert
4 1/4WSHR 1/4" Flat Washer Local Hdwre Store

OPTIONAL Black Spray Paint...

4. The Tools You'll Need for the Job..



Flatblade Screwdriver
Ratchet
Extension
7/16" Socket.
7/16" Combination Wrench
Jack and Jackstands

5. Remove The Fog Light Vent Covers from the Bumper. They Just pull right out.. and pitch them.

6 Remove The 6 retaining clips that hold the front bumper lower splash shield to the bumper then pull the splash shield out from under the bumper. The retaining clips have a small slot which you slide a screwdriver in to. Once the center piece begins to come out.. grasp the center part with the needle nose and pull it out until it stops. Then pull the entire clip from the hole it is in.
fold the splash shield down and back as far as you can, so you can get up under the bumper..

7. Locate Connector C144 where it is secured to the front bumper next to the Driver side Fog light hole... remove the clip from the bumper and pull the connector out through the hole for the foglight.. Remove the dust cap (blank sealed connector) from the harness and take the retainling clip from it, then pitch the dummy connector.. This connector is sealed and non-usable for inserting wires because the wire passthroughs are plastic sealed).


This is a picture with the fog lamp and harness installed on the driver side. The Connector in question is the big one on the left..

8. Connect the 16 way connector from our homemade harness to C144 and attach the retainling clip to the connector from our harness like it was on the dummy connector then put it back where it was originally. You'll want our harness connector to point toward the rear of the car.. Everything just seems to fit better that way. (see picture above)

9. attach the fog light to the connector on our harness (as shown below) then position the light in to position in the bumper hole from the back side..





10 Once the light is in the correct position, secure it with 2 bolts, washers and the locknuts... (see picture showing the location of C144 for where the lower inside bolt goes.. Its not accessable at all from the outside of the bumper. The top hole is easy to find.. its the square hole on the fender side of the bumper.



11. Position the fog bezel then press it inwards until it clicks in to place.



The Right Side isn't as easy.. the washer bottle and pump are in the way and you have to creatively manipulate the light in to place around the bottle.. its kinda a pain. and the inside bolt is really fun to get to..





But it will work its way in there if your persistant.. Just be careful NOT to injure the connector for the washer pump.. etc.

After both lights are installed and secured... We'll route our harness and secure it.

snake a cable tie through the two Holes on the plastic shielding below the radiator... like shown)



and secure your harness in both places..





Then fold any excess harness up neatly and attach it to the horn harness with a cable tie or two..

Finally work the splash shield back up under the front bumper.. and put the six retaining clips back in place.. and push the center part all the way in to lock them..

Granted, Since I'm still waiting on the switch yet... they are not quite yet functional, but should all go well with the switch install.. The hard part is done finally.. Now i'm ready to hide in the A/C.. and relax..





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Old 06-25-2012, 04:30 PM   #12
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Update -

Well we finally got the switch.. Put it in, attempted to put the fuse for the foglights in. Unfortunately there are no terminals for the fuse to plug in to in the spot where the fog light fuse is supposed to go. It appears the S model has its own unique Body Control Module that has the fog lamp circuit omitted. Now for the fun part.. I know I'm going to have to do some more homework and make a few changes. I got a couple ideas in mind... Changing out the BCM to the correct style well.. I don't think we're gonna do that.. But... I did buy a replacement switch and it was cheap enough.. Maybe.. I can modify that switch to make it work.. that will work with the switch and bypass that damn BCM all together for the fogs.. I am determined to make them work now.

Anyone who is planning this, hold off on ordering the parts for the wiring harness I posted..
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaddz3 View Post
Well we finally got the switch.. Put it in, attempted to put the fuse for the foglights in. Unfortunately there are no terminals for the fuse to plug in to in the spot where the fog light fuse is supposed to go. [...]

Anyone who is planning this, hold off on ordering the parts for the wiring harness I posted..
Sounds like you might need a few more Bud Lights for this project.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:52 PM   #14
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Did your S come with the fog light switch built into the headlight switch? Mine did, which makes me wonder if my BCM is different? I attempted to do this with aftermarkets about 5 months ago and failed miserably. So I returned them and I'm waiting to buy a pair of new fog lights to give this a whack again.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:56 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mucrammada View Post
Did your S come with the fog light switch built into the headlight switch? Mine did, which makes me wonder if my BCM is different? I attempted to do this with aftermarkets about 5 months ago and failed miserably. So I returned them and I'm waiting to buy a pair of new fog lights to give this a whack again.
If it is, You will be able to put a fuse in spot F75. If its like mine, the fuse will slide in with no resistance and nothing to holds it in.. but even still if your lucky enough to have the correct BCM, you may still need to have the dealer flash it.

The factory fog light switch is worthless without the correct BCM. all that is inside is a circuit board, the knob, and the buttons (and they're the same kind you find in a TV Remote) Modifying it to run a relay appears to be not possible.

So its OldSkool.. with a relay being driven off the Parking Lamp circuit and a switch mounted on the dash somewhere.. (I really didnt want to have to chop my dash all to hell). At least since all the stuff runs off the BCM now, all the wiring that needs to be tapped in to is all in one spot....
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:01 AM   #16
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How does the factory fog light switch work? It may still be possible to do an aftermarket type of wiring and still use a factory switch. I'm still in for a write up on having fogs in this car.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL330 View Post
How does the factory fog light switch work? It may still be possible to do an aftermarket type of wiring and still use a factory switch. I'm still in for a write up on having fogs in this car.
The switch is fully digital. When you turn the headlights on or press a function on the switch it sends a data command to the BCM which in turn carries out whatever function the driver wanted. All the lights themselves are switched on and off via relays inside the BCM. the connector for the light switch has only 3 active connections... 22 gauge power in, 22 gauge ground, and a 22 gauge data wire going to the bcm. the switch uses Pulse coded modulation.
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:01 PM   #18
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Update - I finally have working fog lights the way i want them to work.

And other than the harness up front for the fog lights themselves. you need about 2 to 3 feet of wire (up to 6 wires)

Lessons Learned So Far:

Ford runs EVERYTHING through that damn Body Control Module. And the S model DOES have its own version of it. Replacing it with the proper Module for fog light equipped cars is way expensive, requires dealership installation (the new module needs to be programmed and may not be possible because this stuff is all VIN based and is done "as-built") and is more of a pain in the butt than i cared to deal with. SO....

I have 2 choices..
1. Have decorative non-functioning lights...
2. Create my own fog light control module...

Heres what you'll need...
(Sorry No pictures.. Mom wanted her camera back, but i will provide illustrations where possible...)...

From Radio Shack...
1 5" x 2.5" x 2" Plastic Project Enclosure Box.

From Any Parts Store...

2 Bosch Style 40 AMP SPST Relays... (advance auto parts has these)
6 1/4 inch male Blade Terminals for 14-16 Gauge Wire
9 1/4 Female (Fully Insulated) Terminals for 14-16 Gauge Wire
1 of each T-Tap Inline Splice for (10-12Ga, 14-16 Ga and 18-22Ga)
1 In-Line Fuse Holder (ATM style) with 12 Gauge Leads
1 15 AMP ATM style fuse
1 Ring Terminal for M8 (I believe) size bolt/Stud
2 flat washers for M8 Bolt/Stud
1 Illunimated (color don't matter) Rocker switch
14 Gauge Wire
18 Gauge Wire
4 inch Tie Wraps
8 inch Tie Wraps
Black Epoxy (You'll Need Quite A bit)
a few of those premixer nozzle things for the epoxy that let you just squeeze the stuff out of the syringe directly..

Tools You'll need..

T25 Torx Driver
Exacto Knife (or, a very large safety pin or medium sized paper clip)
Wire Strippers/Cutters/Crimpers
Needle Nose Pliers
Side Cutters
10mm Socket and Ratchet.
tiny Flat Blade screwdriver (the itty bitty one with the 1/8th inch tip)
Black Tape
Soldering Iron and Solder.


What we are going to do is build a Fog Light Control Module Relay Box that will run the fog lights only when certain conditions are present. (Ie only when we want them to be on)...

Since our cars like to kick the parking lights on when we use the key fob to unlock the car, we can't just simply tap into the parking light wiring just by itself.. otherwise the foglights will light up when ever the parking lights do, Since i live in an apartment this would really piss off my neighbors. Plus it don't look very professional..

But also we just cant tap in to the ignition either or our fogs would be on when ever the key is on... (Don't want that either)...

By using two relays and feeding one relay off the ignition feed, and one of the parking lights feed, and having the fog lights driven directly off the battery, We have more control over when the fogs can come on. I wired mine so that both relays have to be active in order to have the fog lights active. The ignition relay is first in the line, followed by the parking lights relay. if either the ignition switch is off, or the parking lights/Headlights are off, the fog lights will be off too.

Second reason for the relay setup, is since every light in the car is driven off the BCM, there is a possibility that by driving the fog lights directly off the parking light circuit (without their own power source), it could overload the parking light circuit inside the BCM and possibly burn the traces for that circuit on the circuit board (which means you have to replace the BCM). Granted nothing may happen but since they want more than the GDP of some small African Nations to replace the damn thing, Driving them directly off the parking lights or any other BCM output is something i don't wanna try.

Overall, building the Control Module and tapping it in to the car's wiring is not really very difficult, but if you don't like dealing with wiring or unsure, i wouldn't try it. Since we are dealing with the body control module, it can be damaged if you aint careful.

All I Can say is this did work on my car with no ill side effects during testing. If you screw up your car, I'm not responsible..

I still need to epoxy seal my box, and do the final mounting where its going to live and put the thing the rest of the way back together. I need to also make the diagrams for the building and installation and once i get that done, I will post the instructions for building the control module and the installation in to the car...

So.. stay tuned...
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:15 PM   #19
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The Install...

Ok how to build the Fog Control Relay Module..

1. Strip both ends of the fuse holder 1/4 inch

2. On one end, crimp a 1/4 male blade terminal, and solder the other end to
Terminal 30 on the FIRST relay...

3. cut a piece of 14 gauge red wire about 2 inches long and strip both ends 1/4 inch. Solder one end to terminal 87 of the FIRST relay and solder the other end to Terminal 30 of the SECOND relay

4. Cut 2 pieces of 14 Gauge Red wire about 5 inches long and strip each end 1/4 inch. Using a black paint marker Paint a stripe on both wires. twist one end of each wire to the other wire and solder this side to Terminal 87 of the SECOND relay.. make sure both wires are secure on the terminal. Then put a 1/4 inch male blade terminal on each remaining end of both wires. This completes our fog light output circuit.

5. Cut a piece of Yellow 18 gauge about 5 inches long and strip both ends 1/4 inch. Solder One end to Terminal 85 of the FIRST relay and put a 1/4 male blade on the other end.

6. Cut a Piece of White 18 gauge about 5 inches long and strip both ends 1/4 inch. Solder One end to Terminal 85 of the SECOND relay and put a 1/4 male blade on the other end

7 Cut 2 black 18 gauge wires 5 inches long and strip 1/4 inch on each end.
Solder one end of the first wire to Terminal 86 of the FIRST relay, and Solder one end of the second wire to Terminal 86 of the SECOND Relay.. take the remaining ends and place both ends in to the same 1/4 inch male blade terminal and crimp into a double up. this completes our Ignition and Parking Light signal circuits with thier grounds.

Diagram below..



Once everything is soldered together and terminated securely. (I suggest soldering the crimps of the terminal too just to be on the safe side) Place your relays, and bundle the wire neatly inside the Project Enclosure box from radio shack.. in whatever way you can get everything to fit inside without nothing touching each other.

Next you'll need to tape all six terminals together in to an inline terminal block with about a 1/4 of an inch clearance between each terminal. make sure they're taped really well so they can't move around.. A broken piece of popsicle stick or something small like that placed against the sides of the terminals and taped in place to help hold everything together makes this easier.

Finally you want to keep the fuse up out of the top of the box along with your terminal block as you begin to fill the box with epoxy or hot glue. (I was going to just use epoxy but found it was taking A TON of epoxy to fill it up and the cost was getting high so i used hot glue instead to keep it from costing TOO much. As the box gets closer to being full, position your terminals in place where you want them, along with the fuse holder, Remembering to keep the terminal blades and fuse insertion point above the level of the Hot Glue or epoxy.. Once the Potting material (Hot glue or epoxy) sets up, it will hold your terminals and fuse holder in place so they wont move. It will also secure and insulate everything inside the box to keep it from moving around and shorting against each other..

Once everything sets up and cures (or cools down) clean any excess potting materials off the mating surfaces of the terminals and besure the fuse is still accessible. and its ready to install in the car...


INSTALLATION...

WARNING!! Even though this has been tested and works flawlessly on my car, remember it is an unauthorized modification and does VOID your warranty on anything related to the parking lights, Fog Lights or Ignition feed to the BCM. Also remember that the BCM is fragile and can die easily if you DONT know what you are doing or allow something to short to ground... And its not cheap to replace. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!! If you screw up your car or yourself... I aint liable for it.

Now that we got that out of the way...

1. Be SURE the ignition switch and headlight switch are OFF before beginning!

2. Remove the Glove Compartment...

A. Remove the Access Panel to the Passenger side Fuse Block (this is the BCM). Then,
Pry the passenger side Dash cap thing off the dash where the door
Rests against the dash when closed.. Its held on with clips and just
Pulls off... You will see a torx screw under there that holds the
glovebox in...

B. With the glovebox open remove the 2 screws at the top of it.

C. Under the dash, Remove the last 2 screws and pull the glove box
toward you to remove... (Toss it in the backseat for now just
make sure none of your junk falls out of it)



3. You should now see the Body Control Module and all its wiring.. (Notice the High quality factory taping job Ford did when building the harnesses).



4. Remove Connector C2280G FIRST (it has the big fat red and yellow wires)
at the top of the connector is a black lever looking thing... just pull up on
it as you ease the connector toward you... Using a 10-12 Gauge T-Tap,
Splice a 14 Gauge Red Wire to the Big fat Red 10 Gauge wire in the
connector. (Position #2). Put a fully insulated female blade terminal on the other end of the wire and connect it to the BATT Terminal of the Fog Control Module. Do NOT reconnect this connector to the BCM yet.



5. Remove C2280B from the BCM... You will have to pinch the side of the connector to release the locking tabs that are holding the locking lever down. While holding the locking tabs in, Pull the Locking Lever out and push it as far as it will go while pulling the connector out.. (You will also have to remove a clip that holds the harness to the BCM mount so you got a little more room).



Once it is off, align the guide hole in the Locking Lever with the tab on the thing it pivots on and pull the lever off the connector body.. Next, using a side cutters, cut the cable tie holding the harness to the connector's strain relief (whatever you do, DONT accidently cut any of the wires) and using a small flat blade screwdriver or your fingernail, pry the ends of the strain relief away from the connector body and slide it away from the connector so you can see where the wires actually go in the connector... Using a red (18-22ga) T-Tap, splice the Purple/Green stripe wire to a piece of 18 gauge white wire. WARNING.. there is a look a like wire in this connector (green/purple stripe) that we DO NOT want to confuse with the wire we need.. be careful) The wire we need is in Position 1 of the connector.. Also this is a very thin wire (20 gauge) so be very careful not to rip it in half when trying to t-tap splice it with the 18 white we are making. Again put a fully insulated female blade terminal on the other end of our 18 white... and it will connect to the Parking Light Circuit of our Fog Module...

6. Once spliced, Put the strain relief back on the connector and slide it until it clicks in to place, retain all the wires back to it with a 4 inch cable tie, like it was originally, and put the locking lever back on the connector. Position the connector in the socket its supposed to go in to, and push the locking lever back in to its locked position until it clicks... Pull slightly on the connector to make sure it aint going anywhere...

7. Pull C2280D from the BCM... Remove the locking lever, and the strain relief.

8. Pull outward on the very edges of the Red End cap that goes on the front of the connector and while holding the edges out, pull the Red Locking Cap away from the connector. Locate Terminals 18 and 19. (Each are Brown wires) Remove these wires from the connector (see Image below for details) and cut the terminals off. Isolate these wires out of the bundle for at least 8 inches or so, or as far you can get them separated and put a fully insulated female blade on each one... These will plug in to the Fog OUT terminals on our Fog Control Box. Re attach the red locking cap to the BCM connector, push down on it until it clicks to lock the remaining terminals in place.

(**Notice how the corrisponding mating pins for these terminals are missing in the body control module socket along with a bunch of others)..

9. Locate the light blue wire (Terminal 9) and using a blue T-tap (14-16 gauge) Splice this wire to a chunk of 18 guage yellow wire. on the other end we are putting a fully insulated female blade and it will connect to the ignition terminal on our Fog Control Module Box.



10. Reassemble the connector and resecure the wires to it with a cable tie and reconnect it to the BCM...

11. Locate one of the Dash mounting bolts that hold the dash inside the car... Remove one of these bolts (I used the lower one of the two). Cut a piece of black 14 gauge wire that is long enough to reach the BCM from here and strip both ends 1/4 inch.. on one end, put the Ring terminal on and bolt it to the body with the dash bolt.. (you might want to put a couple of flat washers on either side of the ring terminal so it makes a solid contact with the body..) And put a fully insulated Female blade terminal on the other end. For now connect it to the ground terminal of our Fog Control Box.

12. Verify no wire conductor is exposed or that anything can short out and reconnect the 2 way c2280G connector into its socket on the BCM.. You will hear something power up as you do so..)

13. Start the car and turn on the lights... verify that Both fog lights are On.
Verify that no warning lights are present in the gauge cluster except the parking light On indicator (NOTE this modification will not turn the factory fog lamp indicator on in the dash... ) and that no warning messages relating to lights are present in the message center..

14 Verify the fog lamps are functioning correctly in all operating modes

Key off - Fog lights off regardless of headlamp Switch Position.
Key On - HeadLights Off - Parking Lights Off - Fog Lamps Off
Key On - Headlights Off - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On
Key On - Headlights ON LowBeam - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On
Key On - HeadLights ON HighBeam - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On.

Key Off - Headlights Off - UnLock Car with Key Fob (or open car door with key off) - Park Lights On - Fog Lights Off..

15. Verify Fog Lamp Beam Aim and Adjust if needed using the adjustment screw on each fog light...

FINALIZING and COMPLETING INSTALLATION..

1. Disconnect the Parking Light terminal from the fog lamp module box.

2. Choose a convient location to install your fog light rocker switch... (I am going to put mine in the little cubby thing next to the shifter that is worthless for almost anything else except maybe a bit of change..) drill your hole to the correct size and mount your switch in whatever way is applicable to your chosen switch design..

3. Extend the parking light wire from the Fog Control Module to the source pole on the switch...

4. Run another wire from load pole on the switch back to the fog control module box parking light terminal.
OPTIONAL: Run a ground wire from the Earth/Ground Terminal of the switch to a good solid ground. Mine is really bright so i may put a resistor in the ground wire later to tone that LED down a bit.

5.. Once everything is routed where you want it to go, Tape up the harness bundle for the fog control module neatly.. and mount the fog control module where it will be hidden yet able to be securely attached to the car somehow.. I plan to cable tie mine to the BCM mounting bracket next to the BCM). cable tie up the harness in to place so it looks nice...

6. Install the Glove box in reverse order that it came out..

7. Now your S model more closely resembles an SE, than an S. Enjoy the rewards of your labor...

For those that have made it this far, I congratulate you. I know its been a long wait.. and at times seemed to look like it wasnt going to go anywhere.. but.. in the end.. redneck perserverance pays off and if you want it to work bad enough, you'll find a way..

Last edited by Chaddz3; 07-05-2012 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 08-09-2012, 10:37 AM   #20
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Absolutely amazing the amount of thought and the quality of the write-up that went into this. Well done.

I have one comment and then one question:

Key On - HeadLights ON HighBeam - Parking Lights On - Fog Lamps On.

I believe this is illegal in many state. I think the Fog lights are supposed to toggle on and off with the high beams and the OEM Ford circuit is designed to do that.

(I know most police don't care about that and it is a popular mod to enable the fogs to work with the high beams on:)
http://dev.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207349
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128944

Modifying them to only work with the low-beams and not the high-beams would just require an additional relay - but probably not worth the effort.

Question: The 2012 and 2013 "S" never had an option for fog lights, but the 2012 SE had them standard. However, the 2013 SE does not have fog lights unless you add the $2530 SE appearance package. Does anyone know if the 2013 base model SE has the fog light wiring and the BCM set up and you just have to add the lights themselves, or is a mod similar to this required for it if you don't want to deal with replacing the BCM and re-flashing the as-built codes?

Thanks!
Tiger-Heli is offline  
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