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Old 05-23-2012, 06:17 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Buickboy View Post
seeing as this is a very specific, track oriented goal id say dont get drag radials, go straight for slicks. Weight reduction will help a lot too.
Slicks to get into the 13s? A radial isn't even needed to go 13s. A Star Spec or other stickish tire will be more than enough.
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He don't need full slicks u can't launch an automatic fwd unless u figure out a trans brake. U definitely need a custom dyno tune especially with and automatic with nitrous at least $600 just for that. Don't take this the wrong way but it seems like alot of work cause of not starting with the right base/car. Good luck let's see how far u go
You don't need a transbrake to get out of the hole on any auto car. Foot braking one is enough.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:48 PM   #32
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You don't footbrake it. Hitting it from idle will flash the converter higher and leave harder.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:55 PM   #33
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shouldnt be to hard to do... the saleen focus stock with the 75 shot they got to a 13.8....
who did?
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:28 AM   #34
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You don't footbrake it. Hitting it from idle will flash the converter higher and leave harder.
Foot braking it will preload the drive-train and suspension as well as getting the rpms up in the power band, making it move out better.
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:46 PM   #35
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Not for the 2.0L...last I looked.....

Are you a member? If so What is your SN



BTW I am not doing this any more, But my stock mustang runs 13.49@101 just saying
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:52 AM   #36
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Foot braking it will preload the drive-train and suspension as well as getting the rpms up in the power band, making it move out better.
I agree, except for on a stock 17-16 second automatic fwd with a tight converter you will see 200-300 more rpms if you flash the converter, and trust me you need all those rpms you can get on the stock converter.

One a reworked converter like mine from Edge Racing, I'll get 200-300 more rpm on the foot brake about 3700-3800rpm while only getting 3500 flashing it.

My stock converter would foot brake at 2200rpm and flash at 2400-2500rpm.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:14 PM   #37
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davey what you doing with that turbo? what kind of shape is it in? type of flange?
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:50 PM   #38
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letting it collect dust in my garage.



*The offer still stands for any one wanting to do this build. I will do all the work and supply a 2.3 L head. Just need some one who wants to use their car and pay for parts
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:58 PM   #39
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lol ohh dave if my mazda wasnt my DD id do this
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:03 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StockTalon View Post
Foot braking it will preload the drive-train and suspension as well as getting the rpms up in the power band, making it move out better.
Not on a stock converter. Even with an ATI 4,000 stall in a powerglide behind a BBF 460ci, I would cut quicker 60ft times and subsequently quicker 1/8th and 1/4 mile times leaving off idle (1.2x 60ft w/ t-brake, 1.3x off idle, and 1.3x-1.4x powerbraking). The transbrake always left harder than either one of course but in goofing around, powerbraking would always slow me down despite that it would get the rpm up higher. It's more about the sudden hit to the tires.

Pre-loading suspension has little to no effect when you're talking about 14-16 second cars. Just hit it from idle, trust me.
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