I must be getting old... :-) DIY 2012 intake modification - Page 5

TORQUERULES · 05-04-2012, 10:31 AM

Update...

Doing wonderful. Excellent power and mileage. My mod + newmission mod.

Now debating exhaust...

***dyn085*** · 05-26-2012, 07:38 AM

To resurrect an old thread, this kind of intrigued me. While I haven't done anything under the box, I did rip out the snorkel and take a look inside. The only thing that a modded different than your mod different than Newmission's mod (that was fun to say), was that instead of cutting the plastic under the snorkel location, I wedged a piece of plastic in between the bumper and it. The bumper cover actually had a gap there that was almost seemingly designed for it (realistically not, though). This should theoretically help divert the air almost directly to the intake straight from the grill. Any difference would be negligible, but if I see any increase at all from this then I will probably fab up a fiberglass piece to make the airflow cleaner and give it a ram air effect.

Aside from this, I just have the standard airbox enclosure (w/silencer) and a drop-in K&N. Nice write up.

***_RED_*** · 05-29-2012, 06:49 PM

What you did to the front scoops might work pretty good for the steeda intake as well since it still uses one of the factory scoops

bsp_53 · 05-29-2012, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zx3matt

Update...

Doing wonderful. Excellent power and mileage. My mod + newmission mod.

Now debating exhaust...

What do you estimate for an improvement in mileage with your mod?
You probably already saw, but I sold my exhaust.

jimfocus · 06-01-2012, 10:05 AM

I already had a K&N drop in filter. Here's what I did:

I ordered a new air box lid, part # BV6Z9661A from FordParts.com for $5.52 + tax and picked it up at my local ford dealer.

I bored a 3" hole with a hole saw on the drivers side front facing the rear of the grill and radiator support where they meet with the hood and fender. There are gaps that line up with the hole I cut and it appears to allow airflow from outside.

I provided a further heat barrier by installing a diagonal swath of foam insulation strips with adhesive on 1 side between the hole and the engine side ($8.36). It seals against the hood, verified by slight impressions in the underhood insulation.

At low speed it's barely noticeable. When you get on it sounds good/louder but not ridiculous. The seat of the pants dyno indicates a throttle response improvement.

This is a variation on removing the whole lid but you don't get that ridiculous, loud boggy sound and you have a heat shield. I kept the original lid in tact for dealer visits & inspections. Even if you don't follow my design you can experiment with your own for $5.52.

Sorry, no photo but I'm a techno moron.

Scarbelly · 06-09-2012, 03:44 PM

I like both Matt's and Jim's I ideas. I just ordered a K&N and will get a lid and play. Mine is stlli too new to do much.

Joeywhat · 06-09-2012, 04:16 PM

I did this a while back (removed the front snorkel plus air dam blocking the intake tubes) and the sound is great, there is a small increase in performance, and mileage has gone up a bit. Oh, I put in the K&N drop in filter and removed the resonator as well.

I'm not concerned with water at all, there really isn't a direct line from the grill into the snorkels. You might get a little in there if it's really pouring and you're on the highway, but there's no way you'd get enough to even get the filter wet unless you were up to the grill in standing water.

I'm happy with this, considering it cost like $45 in parts and maybe an hour of my time.

TORQUERULES · 06-16-2012, 03:37 PM

I was thinking of something similar in the same area (kind of behind the headlight between the radiator support nod headlight housing) you are talking about, but putting my hole on the side of he bottom half of the air box. I might try that with a snorkel running in that free air area behind the headlight...

Then I would have 3 sources of cool air.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimfocus

I already had a K&N drop in filter. Here's what I did:

I ordered a new air box lid, part # BV6Z9661A from FordParts.com for $5.52 + tax and picked it up at my local ford dealer.

I bored a 3" hole with a hole saw on the drivers side front facing the rear of the grill and radiator support where they meet with the hood and fender. There are gaps that line up with the hole I cut and it appears to allow airflow from outside.

I provided a further heat barrier by installing a diagonal swath of foam insulation strips with adhesive on 1 side between the hole and the engine side ($8.36). It seals against the hood, verified by slight impressions in the underhood insulation.

At low speed it's barely noticeable. When you get on it sounds good/louder but not ridiculous. The seat of the pants dyno indicates a throttle response improvement.

This is a variation on removing the whole lid but you don't get that ridiculous, loud boggy sound and you have a heat shield. I kept the original lid in tact for dealer visits & inspections. Even if you don't follow my design you can experiment with your own for $5.52.

Sorry, no photo but I'm a techno moron.