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Old 04-17-2012, 03:15 AM   #21
00texaszx2
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have you changed out the pcv valve i know its different but i had something similar on my escort zetec, however my problem was with oil and the pcv valve fixed it not only that the valve is only like two bucks.could be clogged and causing back pressure.
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:39 PM   #22
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have you changed out the pcv valve i know its different but i had something similar on my escort zetec, however my problem was with oil and the pcv valve fixed it not only that the valve is only like two bucks.could be clogged and causing back pressure.
Yeah the PCV was changed out (clogged up and dirty but was still shaking). We also found a gaping hole in the Vacuum hose that runs from the PCV valve to the back of the intake manifold under the throttle body. The bend (elbow) in the hose just before the throttle body connection has a gaping vacuum leak, maybe caused by hot oil coming from the PCV? The symptom was when you revved up the engine it took 30-40 seconds for it to go back down to idle speed (under 1000) as it was sucking air. This happened when you drove it too. Here is a post on the same issue: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/5kwht...-throttle.html The previous owner thought it was a throttle cable issue, but we heard the hissing and a mechanic found the hole. But none of this had anything to do with the coolant leak from the valve head (under the valve cover).
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:37 PM   #23
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Update

Update: OK so I got a proper Torx to fit my 3/8" breaker bar, which I carefully turned and of course stripped out the torx head in the Freeze Plug on the first turn.

I invited a couple "professional" mechanics over and for $20 they brought the pressure pump w/ screw adapter for the cooling reservoir. We pumped it up and didn't see anything so I thought heating up the engine made sense. Then I put the valve cover back on, ran the engine for 20 minutes and we pumped up the pressure in the coolant system.

Guess what we saw? NOTHING! NOTTA! No leak of any kind. I even alternately pulled a plug wire to see if anything was leaking. after shutting down we pulled off the valve cover and I dripped soapy water around the Freeze Plugs, but I didn't see any leaks with the engine hot and the coolant system pressurized.

Maybe the slight turn before it stripped helped? I did slightly tighten the threaded plug before I tried to break it free the other direction. I felt and saw no movement.

What next?

The one mechanic thought that there might be a leak in the head???? If I understood what he was saying, he thought the valve head was designed as two pieces (a split head?) before the block and there may have been a leak from around a the spark plug? I didn't grasp any of that, as I believe the valve head bolts directly to the block (but I don't know this engine nor do I have a shop manual), but I found this online: http://www.enginediagrams.org/ford-z...al.html#more-4 and this image looks like it's a one piece head :



This same fellow is giving me a price for a timing belt job.

So where do I go from here with the leak that has disappeared? After much due diligence, including reading all the pros, cons, pluses, minuses, the patents, and numerous forum posts and mechanics testimonials and warnings, i have decided to add a product called Steel Seal to the coolant.
Steel Seal Claims and Information
I have to flush the coolant anyway as part of the planned car maintenance, so I will replace the thermostat/housing, and probably the water pump (with the timing belt job).



The vacuum leak in the PCV hose was a good find, so that gets replaced. (see my last post above - off-topic)

As always, constructive criticism, and input is very welcome! Thanks!

My Daughter is asking where her car is!
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Old 04-20-2012, 01:50 AM   #24
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i have heard good things about the "steel seal", the coolant flush is easy and a timing belt should only take but a few good hours three tops, i do mine in about 45 minutes...why not do the timing on it yourself and save some money, just saying.also im guessing the head is one piece all together.maybe someone else can confirm that here.
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:45 AM   #25
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Smile Ran the Steel Seal trough the coolant system.

I drained the coolant, removed the thermostat and replaced the housing with just the gasket from the thermostat. Then I ran with the Steal Seal and distilled water as recommended for 1/2 hour, then letting the engine cool and repeating. Then I drained the Steal Seal and will replace the thermostat and put in new green coolant at 50/50 mix.

I did purchase a new housing and thermostat, but so far I don't think I will need it, unless I break something on the next R&R. It is fun get that thing out of there.

While the thermostat housing is out I need to replace the PCV hose, which has a gaping hole in it behind the motor. Then I'll replace the thermo housing and tube and refill.

I did the fuel filter today as well.

Time will tell on the sealer. If I see anything on inspection or any side effects from the sealer I will post again.

Thanks for the help.

Learning more and more about the Focus every day.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:55 AM   #26
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Good luck. I don't know how those sealers will work when there's nothing to seal- no holes to close. Here's to hoping you sealed it already yourself
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:45 AM   #27
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Good luck. I don't know how those sealers will work when there's nothing to seal- no holes to close. Here's to hoping you sealed it already yourself
Yah, I hear that. .... As Vicky Pollard (from the show "Little Britain" says..) yea but, no but, yea but...

According to one of the "perfessionel" mechanics that looked at the plugs with a high intensity flash light and the eyes of a Ziess macro lens, "I see small bubbles around one of the freeze plugs". I saw them too, but perhaps it was the PB Blaster baking off?

Time will tell.

Today I replace the shot PCV hose and get the thermostat back on, and a valve cover gasket. The trans fluid and filter is planned for next week. I will probably forgo the timing belt for now (?), unless I can find someone to do it for about 200 or less (sans parts). Also need to replace 2 mismatched tires with new ones.

So far:
body work (hood and fender)
filters (cabin, air, fuel, oil)
the PCV hose (next)
License Plates and registration
Tires -2 (planned)
auto trans filter/fluid (planned)
timing belt (on hold)
hopefully this will get it through inspection and on the road for a while

It's amazing how much and how fast money gets poured into this project.
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:03 PM   #28
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I am not sure if Steal Seal will work on those plugs. I did use it on my 2000 Nissan Truck that had a blown gasket and the gasket got fixed within a couple hours. I almost did not believe it.The sealer works on repairing minor head gasket leaks only but you will need to follow the directions. You can use it as a preventative measure too.
Curious to know if it will work for your application.
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:09 PM   #29
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I am not sure if Steal Seal will work on those plugs. I did use it on my 2000 Nissan Truck that had a blown gasket and the gasket got fixed within a couple hours. I almost did not believe it.The sealer works on repairing minor head gasket leaks only but you will need to follow the directions. You can use it as a preventative measure too.
Curious to know if it will work for your application.
So far it's still good.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:38 PM   #30
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Permatex "Elixirs"

Permatex Super "300" seems to be formulated for exactly this type of application. (re-sealing plug caps)

From Permatex webstie: Non-hardening sealant designed to resist heat transfer fluids such as oil or antifreeze.

Does anyone have experience with Super 300?

A few permatex products were mentioned earlier in this thread. (Specifically Permatex #2 and Permatex Indian Head)

What are the similaraties/differences between Super 300, #2, and Indian Head?

P.S. - Congrats to CitizenPete on what sounds like a resolved issue!
I am a few months behind . . soaking the plug caps in liquid wrench. Will attempt removal tomorrow!
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