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Old 04-14-2012, 02:53 PM   #31
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More than likey cost= bean counters said no to the imtv on the 20

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I agree it would be interesting to see in the long/short runner control would help the 2.0. I curious as to why the 2.3 had it, but not the 2.0.
I would venture out & say a cost reason, being the 20 is geared more torwards the mass= for the most part & the ST was Fords performance version of the Foci. Another words Ford needed a stepping stone down from the iconic SVTF & thats what they gave us.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:20 PM   #32
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Ok so got the code for the mil finally it was a p2004 for a IMRC stuck fully open which im assuming is because the sensor is disconnected now im wondering if i was to plug the sensor in somewhere and tuck it would think it still had the system but benefit from the extra airflow
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Old 04-18-2012, 05:15 PM   #33
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imrc delete

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Ok so got the code for the mil finally it was a p2004 for a IMRC stuck fully open which im assuming is because the sensor is disconnected now im wondering if i was to plug the sensor in somewhere and tuck it would think it still had the system but benefit from the extra airflow
Hows your car run? From idle to off idle? Is there a slight hesatation around say 2000- 2500 rpm just cruising? & it does away when you give it any throttle? I'd like to get rid of the imrc, aka tumble flaps. Sounds like some kind of tune is needed. I've heard people doing that w/ no issues & some have issues. Thanx for your input
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:25 PM   #34
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I really have no running problems i have a bigger throttle body on it now but before that it still didnt hesitate or anything just gave me the code since its unplugged but im gonna be getting it tuned here shortly but id recommend it if you can get the parts and dont mind doing it to your car, it defintly helped midrange power it seemed like to me after driving for a while
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:34 PM   #35
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waiting on dyno.... vids..... ect. lol
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:21 PM   #36
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lol im trying to get it tuned soon when money allows but i need a clutch im running the stock one with 70k so once thats done im gonna tune it and dyno it.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:54 PM   #37
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Exedy oem is a great kit

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lol im trying to get it tuned soon when money allows but i need a clutch im running the stock one with 70k so once thats done im gonna tune it and dyno it.
Exedy perhaps? It also gets rid of the dual mass flywheel to.
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Last edited by felixthecat; 04-19-2012 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Gets rid of the dual mass flywheel
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:00 PM   #38
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Just gotta find something that will be able to hold up to the power level incase i increase jet size down the road too.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:25 PM   #39
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Ok so i was just messing around teying to get the check engine light off and it seems unless its tuned its gonna have to stay on for now lol. It runs great even full throttle with the imrc sensor unplugged but the check engine light is on and it says imrc stuck fully open. once i connect the sensor/actuator and vacuum hose and tuck it away the check engine light is gone but once i give it full throttle it falls on its face and starts detonating
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:18 PM   #40
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You are so right, Daryl

[QUOTE=AMMO-Duke;4107433]I agree with this. Based on my research and everything I have experienced, tumble flaps are purely an emissions device. Better atomization/creating a better burn is technically correct.



When you crack the throttle open, the flaps do not respond immediately. They are only commanded to open when you reach a certain throttle position and rpm. Lets say you stepped on the gas real quick to rev it up and immediately let off. Even if you reached the point where the flaps were commanded to open, they open much slower than a quick blip of the throttle. In this case, the flaps are basically closed the whole time. You just revved your engine with the intake runners 80% blocked off. This is why removal of the tumble flaps should get you much improved throttle response and low end power. If you don't believe me, try this: Open your hood and start your engine. Control the throttle with your hand and watch the tumble flap actuator/arm. Play with the throttle/rev it up and see when the flaps actually open.

Bottom line: If you remove tumble flaps, you are removing a big air restriction within the IM at low throttle/rpm.

You are so right on this. ^^^^ My car responses better w/ the tumble flaps open. I'd like to delete the whole shebang w/ a escape manifold w/o the check engine light on.
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