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Old 04-01-2012, 06:33 PM   #191
FocusBoy58
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Originally Posted by AZfocus2012 View Post
Do these numbers work for the 2012? I might have to give this a try. I can re-gap the plugs every couple of years. Used to have to do that or replace them every few years, back in the day.
.065 is for 00-11 .060 is for 2012; zetecs need aftermarket wires for .065
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:18 PM   #192
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Originally Posted by AZfocus2012 View Post
Do these numbers work for the 2012? I might have to give this a try. I can re-gap the plugs every couple of years. Used to have to do that or replace them every few years, back in the day.
In the owners manual it says the spark plug gap is:

2012 .035 c/r 12:1
2011 .051 c/r 10:1
2010 .051 c/r 10:1

Spark plug gap is determined by your ignition and compression ratio. As the Focus C/R has gone up the gap has gotten smaller. The higher the compression ration the harder the ignition works to spark. On the performance mods that some have done .08 (~.043) would be the largest over gap that would provide the best performance. You still have several variables like fuel type, octane and even brand of fuel.

New to the FF but the same principle on every car I have owned.

1964 Chevy II Nova
1980 Chevy Monza Spyder
1990 Dodge Colt
1993 Nissan Altima
1995 Acura Integra GSR
1997 Mercury Mountaineer
2000 Toyota Solara
2004 Toyota Solara

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Old 04-01-2012, 07:22 PM   #193
greg hazlett
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Very good accurate info Paul vice what the babbling idiot provides....wow....please please please people do not run out to your cars and start adjustiung the spark plug gaps because Boy Wonder told you to do so....the engineers at Ford know what it right for these engines, not Boy Wonder.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:24 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brabs_Weather View Post
In the owners manual it says the spark plug gap is:

2012 .035 c/r 12:1
2011 .051 c/r 10:1
2010 .051 c/r 10:1

Spark plug gap is determined by your ignition and compression ratio. As the Focus C/R has gone up the gap has gotten smaller. The higher the compression ration the harder the ignition works to spark. On the performance mods that some have done .08 (~.043) would be the largest over gap that would provide the best performance. You still have several variables like fuel type, octane and even brand of fuel.

New to the FF but the same principle on every car I have owned.

1964 Chevy II Nova
1980 Chevy Monza Spyder
1990 Dodge Colt
1993 Nissan Altima
1995 Acura Integra GSR
1997 Mercury Mountaineer
2000 Toyota Solara
2004 Toyota Solara

Current
2004 Ford Explorer
2008 Ford Edge
2012 Ford Focus
Actually anything before spark blow out is the best you cant just put a certain number on it. Some cars blow out sooner then others. .010 is playing it safe past that you get towards the area that you could have inability to make park. But mine are at .060 with no issues right now.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:33 PM   #195
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Originally Posted by FocusBoy58 View Post
Actually anything before spark blow out is the best you cant just put a certain number on it. Some cars blow out sooner then others. .010 is playing it safe past that you get towards the area that you could have inability to make park. But mine are at .060 with no issues right now.
I read an article before about this on the Honda racing site that +/- 5whp was all the difference with and acceptable gap range. I would be interested to see if Steeda will make some coil packs for higher voltage.

Forgot to mention that if you gap to large you risk addition RFI in the spark plug. You would have to use a oscilloscope to really see that, but not sure if that is relevant with coil packs. Maybe suppressed.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:42 PM   #196
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ya know I kinda wanted to go with as many steeda parts as possible...but $300 is pretty steep for a box, filter, maf housing, and a couple brackets...probably gonna have to wait on this one
i think im with you on this one. i cant see spending $300 plus shipping on just that. its not worth that to get 10 hp and 10 ftlbs of torque. plus cold air intakes usually arent made to be like short ram intakes. usually cai go down almost to the ground and have nothing to do with engine temp woes. i think ill hold off too.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:54 PM   #197
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^^^ That's why I like the steeda ram air. It's like $210 or something, and you can upgrade to the heat shield or build one yourself. I have just had steeda intakes in the past, and I think I might go that route again over the summer.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:59 PM   #198
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Originally Posted by greg hazlett View Post
Nevermind...I see who said this and he is on my ignore list due to his dilsusional knowledge.
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Originally Posted by FocusBoy58 View Post
lmao
I know you guys are talking about the other guy, but I just wanted to specify, I wasn't arguing! LoL I was just curious because I DON'T have a lot of technical knowledge. I'll be the first to admit it :)
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:10 PM   #199
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Well, those are some impressive gains - kudos to Steeda for the well engineered kit. I have a feeling this is going to be a very, very fun car (it already is).

The kit is pretty pricey, however. I don't really have the money, however I have SolidWorks, a lathe, some chunks of aluminum, and some sheet metal. Hmmm . . .
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:25 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memphiscbrider View Post
i think im with you on this one. i cant see spending $300 plus shipping on just that. its not worth that to get 10 hp and 10 ftlbs of torque. plus cold air intakes usually arent made to be like short ram intakes. usually cai go down almost to the ground and have nothing to do with engine temp woes. i think ill hold off too.
Both steeda and fswerks have similar "CAI" that are heat shielded ram intakes.
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