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Old 02-26-2012, 07:46 AM   #51
jetrinka
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Take it to a good shop who will actually diagnose what is going on instead of just giving you a list of things that they can readily see are broken...
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:12 PM   #52
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We're on our way back from looking at his car. The motor is fine it doesn't even tap. Starts right up. Just has a few problems that need fixed but the car is saveable. Gonna come back next weekend to help get it right. Or at least driveable!lol
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:16 PM   #53
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thats good to hear!
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:57 PM   #54
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Yup a HUGE thanks to the focus family for their expertise and help! I feel a billion times better. Can't believe I was ready to sell it off... I really appreciate yours and the forums help!! I owe ya'll big time.

Anyways, I've got me a list of what I gotta order tomorrow morning -
-Waterpump
-Thermostat and housing (will prob grab the Contour upgraded so this doesn't ever become an issue again!)
-Right transmission mount
-cooling fan resistor
-prestone radiator flush kit
-OEM coolant
-OEM Front o2 sensor
-cheater for rear o2 (will solder that myself!)
-flexpipe and gasket
-rear swaybar linkage
-spark plugs
-seafoam (clean that mofo up)
-headlight restore kit
-balljoint

so happy this car is salvagable, huge thanks to everyone again! and to Josh and fam for making huge trip down to Poolesville to help me out

And to New Jersey dude - didn't think your post was rude at all, I appreciated the honesty!! There were some issues I should've known about before I bought it. Too late now, just gotta fix it up. Thing had some ghetto rigged stuff going on with it...the "de-ricing" is in motion :) I thought it was Clifton, but it's really Wallington. I didn't really know any better don't know NJ for anything.

Last edited by p0sitivevibez; 02-26-2012 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:33 AM   #55
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For the ball joint..Its easier to just replace the whole control arm with the ball joint. Then you don't have to cut and drill.

We're replacing our TPS today and if that doesn't solve our problem then the sob is going to Ford..lol. And we found out that the car had the wrong PCV valve in it so we changed that out. Let us know if you have any trouble getting any parts.
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:12 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focus_family View Post
For the ball joint..Its easier to just replace the whole control arm with the ball joint. Then you don't have to cut and drill.

We're replacing our TPS today and if that doesn't solve our problem then the sob is going to Ford..lol. And we found out that the car had the wrong PCV valve in it so we changed that out. Let us know if you have any trouble getting any parts.
Uh oh, did you get it changed out?

Got the upgraded Contour thermostat housing kit from Steve at Tousley, front o2 sensor, waterpump, fan resistor, tranny mount and spark plugs coming in!
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:48 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p0sitivevibez View Post
Uh oh, did you get it changed out?

Got the upgraded Contour thermostat housing kit from Steve at Tousley, front o2 sensor, waterpump, fan resistor, tranny mount and spark plugs coming in!
Yeah we changed the TPS. It helped a little bit with our hanging idle. Still has a little bit of an issue with idle. But our friend with a SVT said that his sounds the same way.

Sounds good. Heck some of that stuff you can probably do without Josh. The fan resistor is super simple. I think your Dad was the one that pulled it out anyhow lol.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:52 PM   #58
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Oh yeah! I don't know if Josh told you (probably not) but we bought a compression tester for ourselves yesterday. Figured we have to borrow one or rent one that we might as well just buy one. I'm sure it will get plenty of use and its a good tool to have. So I'll make sure it makes it into the car whenever we come up so we can run a compression test on yours.
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:46 PM   #59
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Nice! Yeah almost bought one today pretty badass !

Sent from my C771 using FF Mobile
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:52 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focus_family View Post
For the ball joint..Its easier to just replace the whole control arm with the ball joint. Then you don't have to cut and drill.
^this

Don't mess around with the ball joint, I spent 2 hours with an air chisel trying to get those stupid heads sheared off. Eventually, I gave up and returned the ball joint and spent $20 more for the whole control arm. There are some good guides out there for replacing a control arm, it was pretty easy.

Funny though, the MOOG ball joint had grease fittings and the MOOG control arm didn't. Oh well.



Also, in reply to the post at the end of the second page about selling it for $1000 - I tried to trade my SVTF in last fall and the dealer was going to give me $500. They bumped it up to $1500 when I told them I rebuilt the head and replaced the timing belt a year ago. Book value isn't great for an '02 with 200k kms on it.
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