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SPI Performance (2000-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L Split Port Injection engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 12-26-2011, 09:55 AM   #81
LugNut
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Thumbs up Ahh .. enough of that stuff

and now back to work!

Hope to get the short block done today, all the way through to installing the flywheel and clutch pack.

Off to a good start: the end-gaps of the new rings check out OK. My super thin feeler gauges are English units only, so needed a calculator to convert them to mm. The first pic shows, or will show, using a piston upsidedown to insert the rings to the proper depth, and leveling, for checking the gap.

For installing the piston/rod assemblies later fortunately I had some clear plastic tubing that will fit the rod bolts. My normal fuel hose pieces are too big for this tiny engine.
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:53 PM   #82
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Cool Rolling along

Met my goal today of getting the short block assembled, and flywheel/clutch pack on.

The tubing that fits the rod studs is clear vinyl, 7/16 in. O.D., 5/16 in. I.D. You (too) only need two three inch lengths of it. Home Depot, etc., should sell it.

One minor bump today -- despite extreme care, did manage to put in piston #4 backwards at first. Doh!

All the rod journals/bearings clearances checked out. Had to file-off a slight ding on the outside end of the crankshaft later, but overall very happy with this remanufactured crank so far.

In putting the short block back together, it was disturbing that neither the rear seal, oil pump, nor oil pan had centering pegs -- a standard feature in most engines. And their bolt holes allowed each to float a bit. On the oil pump and rear seal, I had to check carefully to make sure their seals were centered on their respective journals before fully tightening the bolts.

To put the rear seal on, I had to take the engine off the stand and put it on the flat floor on a clean towel, upsidedown. Also worked well for getting the oil pump, windage tray, oil pickup, oil pan, flywheel, and clutch pac on. Centering tool worked well, but you (too) have to adjust the center due to gravity pulling the clutch disc down. A "flywheel turner" specialty tool was very helpful to use against the torque wrench when putting on the flywheel and clutch pack.

The pile of new parts is getting very small! Encouraging. I can't work on the FF tomorrow morning, but may in the afternoon make the first attempt at reinstalling the short block. It's always fun to get an engine and trans to line up.
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:36 PM   #83
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Talking Woo hoo!

Short block is in!

As expected, lining up the trans was the challenge.

Fortunately got my load-leveler to work, via two rear head bolt holes and two bolt holes on the front/sides of the block. Would have been a nightmare without the leveler. Cardboard and duct tape on top of the block used to protect the cylinders and to keep any dirt out of the passages.

Block went in in reverse of the removal, as described previously. Many pictures coming -- was able to upload three as a test; the censor needs to approve them first before they go public. No other car sites I use does this; wonder why here. Is this site actually owned/run by Ford or some other fearful organization?

After lining up the block with the bellhousing, the final keys to getting them back together were to use four longer bolts (from the starter and the accessory bracket) to make sure all was straight, and to allow the block to slide back without forcing. Then to put the trans in gear, then use a large screwdriver to slightly turn the flywheel back and forth while also pushing the block/trans together. Hearing that pop of the input shaft going in is always very satisfying!

Also satisfying was putting away the cherrypicker and engine stand -- I should be done with them. The engine is once again supported by a heavyduty floor jack and a fairly soft, wide block of wood under the oil pan.

Still much to do, but definitely ... hopefully ... finally on the downhill slope of this huge project!
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:47 PM   #84
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congrats man!!!
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:13 PM   #85
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Cool Pluggin' along

Thanks!

Not a full day today, but did get the water pump, accessory bracket, starter, timing belt tensioner, alternator, power steering pump, sensors, and lower radiator tube/hoses installed, and the intake manifold and catalytic converter in place but not tightened yet. Installed the lower part of the wiring harness to all the sensors, and the hoses to the back of the intake manifold.

Prefilled and installed the oil filter. The oil dipstick tube, strangely, went in too easily, after having to be forcibly removed from underneath. Reinstalled with lots of Permatex #2 goo.

Once again, surprised that a part didn't have centering pins -- this time the water pump. Odd that the tolerances need to be that much in this day of CNC machining.

Keep your old gaskets! New gasket sets normally include extras, and this SPI SOHC set included, for example, different intake and water pump gaskets. Having the old ones to compare against, to make the right selection, was important. Also, this set did not include the cat-to-flex pipe gasket, so had to make a run to the store. I also had modify it to make the gasket center properly.

Tomorrow's afternoon weather looks great; the plan is to install the head and timing belt in the morning, then to renovate the split-injector sub-manifold assembly in the afternoon when I can vent the carb cleaner fumes outside. If things continue to go well, maybe a late Friday fire-up!
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:31 PM   #86
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Talking Insert Joke Here!

Head is on! It also has loose centering tolerance around the two little sheet metal tubes. Again, surprising! Dowels were expected.

The head bolts are new, and are of the "torque to yield" variety -- there's a very specific, and different, way of doing this SPI. Read and follow the FSM carefully!

New timing belt is on, although I put the cam sprocket on backwards at first -- the large, cast-in nut on the sprocket's hub goes outward. I like how easy it was to sync the crank and cam on this engine; much easier than a couple of Toyotas I've done in recent years.

Even with the new spark plugs in, and the car in gear, I still couldn't torque the crank bolt properly so had to resort to the HD air gun.

Exhaust manifold hung in place, but not tightened yet.

Making good progress on cleaning the IMRC assembly. Parts drying overnight. Used almost a full can of carb cleaner though, and two old toothbrushes. Hint: if you aren't saving some of your old toothbrushes, you should be! Very handy in the garage for work like this.

I have to work on a different project tomorrow morning, so won't get the engine done. Hopefully this weekend though. Warm weather predicted again for this Saturday; expecting a smoky start-up, so I'll push the car outside for that.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:06 PM   #87
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sweet best of luck with a strong startup :)
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:26 PM   #88
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Even with the new spark plugs in, and the car in gear, I still couldn't torque the crank bolt properly so had to resort to the HD air gun.


I use a strap wrench to hold the balancer while torquing the crank bolt.
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Old 12-30-2011, 09:27 AM   #89
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Unhappy Yikes!

"I use a strap wrench to hold the balancer while torquing the crank bolt."

That's unfortunately a really bad thing to do. The harmonic balancer has a thin elastomeric ring separating the hub and the dynamic mass/pulley. You've likely damaged it. New OEM ones usually cost $300 or so, retail ...
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Old 12-30-2011, 05:37 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LugNut View Post
"I use a strap wrench to hold the balancer while torquing the crank bolt."

That's unfortunately a really bad thing to do. The harmonic balancer has a thin elastomeric ring separating the hub and the dynamic mass/pulley. You've likely damaged it. New OEM ones usually cost $300 or so, retail ...
Well All I can tell you is this-Page 303-01E-141 0f the Ford workshop manual figure TIE0009662 shows a strap wrench holding the crankshaft pulley as it is torqued to 120 Nm.
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