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Old 09-27-2011, 03:29 PM   #61
exploring/carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurker27 View Post
Great stuff with that toyota hose - When I dig into this I will definitely use that!
Hope I have good news on the Toyota hose tomorrow. Replacing the thermostat and PCV valve right now. Will install the intake manifold with Toyota hose tomorrow.

Thanks,
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:02 PM   #62
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I didnt torque mine down nor did we tighten them in any spacific order but i did have one of the bolts fall out on me about a month after.

Mine had 7 i believe, 6 across the top and one down low under the car. When the one of the 6 fell out from the top, i took the bottom one out and put it op top.

They want $6. for each bolt so ill probably wait till i get a new intake and get a new bolt then with new gaskets and then torque em down properly.

Im thinking about sanding and using a dremel on the new intake to pretty it up a little more then my stock one. which i ruined.
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:15 AM   #63
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Looking in the Haynes manual and it's calling for 156 inch pounds torque on the eight intake manifold bolts. Will cross torque them.

Another forum member recommended replacing the thermostat, so purchased one for $22 and replaced yesterday:





Removed the oil separator with PCV valve & installed new $9 PCV valve using the old o-ring on the new valve.



Used the razor blade on a scraper to pry the PCV collar up & off of the tabs, worked great:

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Old 09-28-2011, 10:29 AM   #64
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First off, blueoval23, hope you don't mind me adding all of these photos to your thread. Just working through my learning curve for the first time doing this job.

Installed the Gates 18423 hose (see previous hose photos) after a few attempts this morning. Had a problem getting the lubricated hose to stay on the intake manifold nipple while getting the hose clamp in position to tighten. Needed to write this down while it's fresh in my mind.

This is probably common knowledge for many experienced FF, but hope this information will be helpful for some.

Here is the final installation sequence that worked for me:

The cooling fan assembly needs to be removed, if it has not already been done.

Used K & N air filter seal grease on both PCV hose IDs & nipple ODs to help
the undersized hose to slip on easily.

Tighten screwdriver/socket type hose clamp on the PCV hose connection.

The photo shows how the clamps should be oriented.

Install the intake manifold & EGR tube without manifold bolts.

From the front right side of the intake manifold, slip the PCV hose
on the intake manifold nipple.

Hold the manifold as close as possible to the engine to prevent
hose from slipping off while one intake manifold bolt is installed
to hold intake manifold & PCV hose in place.

Be sure the hose did not slide off the nipple and tighten hose
clamp with a ratchet.

Hose clamps used:



Reach in under intake to install/tighten hose to intake manifold:



Installed hose clamp in bottom RH portion of photo looking from intake/air filter side:



Will put everything back together & test the ZX3 this afternoon!
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Old 09-28-2011, 03:01 PM   #65
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The ZX3 ran "Great" on the test ride. The engine light does "not" come on with code 171 (lean), no more rough idle, and no more hissing when the engine is shut down.

Appreciate the comments in this thread before & after first I posted.

Hope the Toyota Pickup heater hose will last much longer than the OEM hose. Time will tell, should put 1,000 miles on during the next two weeks.

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Old 11-29-2011, 10:57 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exploring/carolina View Post
First off, blueoval23, hope you don't mind me adding all of these photos to your thread. Just working through my learning curve for the first time doing this job.
Not at all, I think its great to have this much info in one place, thanks!
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:37 AM   #67
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Update:

Have about 5000 miles on the Gates 18423 (Heater/PCV) hose so far, and running great.

Contacted Gates after installing the 18423 hose and they said even though this hose was not designed for PCV applications, it should not crack, but might get soft with time.

The OEM hose had probably been cracked long before I discovered & replaced it. The car runs & idles great, and no more engine check light/lean code.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:49 AM   #68
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Great thread!
Gotta replace the thermostat on an 07' 2.0 and believe I have to remove the intake manifold for for that too.
I have no clue why they would stuff serviceable parts under the intake manifold and make it such a paid. In the ass to remove.

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Old 12-01-2011, 10:58 AM   #69
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What would you think of this. Top Speed sells a PCV valve block off plate (metal). That with a copper flare fitting, and using soft copper tubing to eliminate the 'rubber' altogether.
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:05 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S0C0nFused View Post
What would you think of this. Top Speed sells a PCV valve block off plate (metal). That with a copper flare fitting, and using soft copper tubing to eliminate the 'rubber' altogether.
The idea of replacing the PCV hose with something that will not fail, will be a great improvement and should be done.

Hose connection on back of intake manifold that needs to be connected to:



After installing the Gates hose, thinking I should have installed a metal tube between the hose bends for a more durable assembly. Just a thought.





The cracks on the original hose looked like they could have been caused from the hose cycling like a bellows and eventually cracking the hose in several locations.
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