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SPI Performance (2000-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L Split Port Injection engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 11-28-2011, 03:59 PM   #21
LugNut
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Exhaust stud removal

A hanging detail from yesterday -- the stuck exhaust manifold stud. It unscrewed easily, part way, using a small female Torx socket, but then seized. Soaking it repeatedly with WD-40, and backing it in and out over an hour or so finally freed it. Because all the other studs were out, it was important to support the weight of the manifold by hand so as not to stress the bolt. With the stud out, I then tied the manifold up to the power steering bracket, as described above, to take the weight off the header pipe. The stud looked normal after it was out -- I was expecting to see lots of corrosion.
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:10 PM   #22
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Parts is parts

Creeping up on those 25 posts needed, apparently, for posting pics here ...

I'm otherwise busy today, but have started researching/pricing parts. Finding the correct replacement piston might be more involved than first thought. I'm seeing at least two different dome shapes, and also two different ring landing widths for one of the rings. Due to other my time commitments I probably can't resolve this one in my head tonight, but do hope to start ordering the obvious parts like water and oil pump, etc.

I want to replace the fuel filter too (that will relieve the pressure!), but am seeing two different types. The Fram G8018 likely the correct one? And where is it installed? It's not in the fuel line under the hood; I hope I don't have to drop the tank -- that's not a fun job.
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:06 PM   #23
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Question Yankin' the engine?

A member is selling me his non-2001 Workshop Manuals -- thanks!

Just located the fuel filter, under the right-side passenger's seat-back. Looks like the Fram one mentioned above.

But am thinking now about the procedure for pulling the engine. I will be replacing the clutch too.

Originally I'm sure the engine and transaxle were installed from below. I'm thinking it would be best to instead separate the engine from the trans, in place, and to lift the block up and out (I have a cherry picker). Any experiences otherwise?

I might not even need to take the hood off -- it props up nicely.
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:58 AM   #24
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I believe mine (actually my wife's) started doing this too. I started it up right after thanksgiving dinner to take my family out to celebrate getting this car back road worthy (after I had to sell my 5.0 t-bird and let my '07 mustang go). Talk about taking the wind right out of our sails immediately.

A couple of questions if I may -
I've basically left it parked aside from pulling the valve cover and checking a few things while running before I researched it online to find out this common problem. It's loud, but it does quiet down and almost go away, but then come back most of the time. I'm assuming it probably is this problem or is it constantly loud and obnoxious?

The car was due for an oil change (which I was going to take care of Friday as I had just replaced plugs/wires, and a few worn tires). I had just about finished running a tank with lucas injector cleaner through it and was about ready to fill it up when I started it and this happened. I'm wondering if a bunch of junk just broke loose from the cleaner. Who am I kidding though, my gut says its this and its got 90,000 miles. Talk about horrible timing though. From 3 cars to walking lol.

I will say though, all 4 plugs are fine (sounds like its coming from #4), and I peaked in each cylinder through the SP hole and everything seemed okay.
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:05 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiseguy83 View Post
I believe mine (actually my wife's) started doing this too. I started it up right after thanksgiving dinner to take my family out to celebrate getting this car back road worthy (after I had to sell my 5.0 t-bird and let my '07 mustang go). Talk about taking the wind right out of our sails immediately.

A couple of questions if I may -
I've basically left it parked aside from pulling the valve cover and checking a few things while running before I researched it online to find out this common problem. It's loud, but it does quiet down and almost go away, but then come back most of the time. I'm assuming it probably is this problem or is it constantly loud and obnoxious?

The car was due for an oil change (which I was going to take care of Friday as I had just replaced plugs/wires, and a few worn tires). I had just about finished running a tank with lucas injector cleaner through it and was about ready to fill it up when I started it and this happened. I'm wondering if a bunch of junk just broke loose from the cleaner. Who am I kidding though, my gut says its this and its got 90,000 miles. Talk about horrible timing though. From 3 cars to walking lol.

I will say though, all 4 plugs are fine (sounds like its coming from #4), and I peaked in each cylinder through the SP hole and everything seemed okay.
Do a compression check on each cylinder.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:21 PM   #26
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My gut too says bad news for you. If you are capable, pull the head. Or find someone with a scope to put through the spark plug holes. Pulling the throttle body is fairly easy, then look straight down close to a foot into the intake to look for metal chunks. But pulling the head is the ultimate test.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:21 PM   #27
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Question Parts is parts 2

Rebuilt head arrives tomorrow, and I just placed an order for new:

water pump
oil pump
serpentine belt
timing set
thermostat
spark plugs
head bolts
pcv valve
fuel filter
air filter
cabin air filter
crankcase breather element

and a couple of new openers for the trunk. Plus a couple of other parts for another car. Just under $300, but a good chunk of that was shipping from a bunch of different places.

My plan is to pull the block this coming weekend, and then after I and my machine shop go through it, to order the internal parts. I'm not finding my favorite gasket set (full engine rebuild) from Fel-Pro though -- have posted a question to the more general tech topics.

Any opinions on the full rebuild gasket sets from other manufacturers, specifically for the SPI?
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:22 AM   #28
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New head is here

The new head has arrived, from the eBay seller in Texas. $250, including shipping both ways (yes, you need to return the core no matter what its condition). Excellent packaging job by the seller. I bought the "valves only" version, so tonight I plan to move over the cam, liters, rockers, etc. from the old head to the newly rebuilt one.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:02 AM   #29
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Yeah, I saw that Ebay ad for $250. Seems like a good price for everything that is done to the head. If the valve seat is the death of these engines, you are on your way to a very reliable motor that will give you a lot of miles. Now get those pictures up !
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:51 AM   #30
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ya 1 more post then you can post pics
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