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Old 11-28-2011, 02:00 PM   #61
veronaqueen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a_2000_se View Post
Just a heads up - Sears will only do a transmission pan fluid exchange and only on cars with less than 100k miles. It's Sears policy not to do pan fluid changes on cars with over 100k miles as "they need a full service and a full fluid exchange/ flush with a transmission filter".

So you are probably seeing the difference in price because they change 2, maybe three quarts of fluid instead of a couple of gallons and the filter.
Nope, I watched them do a complete flush and filter change for me for that price. And my car's at 106K. Maybe they bent the rules, but I oversaw the entire process and made sure I got what they told me I was getting.
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:23 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by c00lkatz View Post
Another way to do it is to remove the pan, drain the fluid, clean the pan and install the new filter, then top it off with some fresh fluid, like normal. But instead, take the cooler inlet hose, stick it into an empty bucket, take the cooler outlet hose, stick it into a bucket filled with fresh fluid, then let the car run. This will allow the pump to drain all the old fluid while sucking in new fluid at the same time. Then you just shut it off when fresh fluid starts coming out of the drain hose. That way you don't accidentally run it dry, and you still flush the whole system at once. Be sure to check the fluid level afterward. If it's too low, top it off, too high use a MityVac/Vacuum Pump and siphon the excess out. That's a tool anyone working on their own car should have anyway. Very handy little device.

Haven't had to do it on my Focus yet, but I've done it on other cars with great success.
If i didn't have a BG flush machine this would be the only way i would recommend doing this on your own. Personally i flush my car with 16 quarts of fluid :)
I like overkill. Its better on a car that gets driven hard. Even though i use cleaners and additives i still change my fluid every 22,000 ish. 103,000 k on it and runs perfect.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:22 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by SanduskySerpents View Post
I'm sorry I should have been more clear.
1. Remove pan.
2. Remove/Replace Filter. There is a sensor attached to the filter dont break it.
3. Install pan and gasket.
4. Add 3 Quarts
5. Remove transmissoin oil cooler return line ( coming from transmissoin) this line likes to rust to spray with liquid wrench or PB blaster. If it snaps dont freak.
6. if you have a large enough clear hose put it on the cooler line and put it in an empty quart bottle. (clear tube helps you see color better.)
7. (2 person part) Have some one start the car with ebrake on and holding brake and move the automatic shifter through gears. shut off when one quart out. note dark color.
8. add 1 quart you are now at 4.
9. start car shift through again and shut off when another quart is full.
10. add quart now at 5.
11. start car shift through again and shut off when another quart is full.
12. add quart now at 6
13.start car shift through again and shut off when another quart is full should be bright red and new. reattach cooler line.
14. add quart now at 7.

this method makes sure you get all the old fluid out of the cooler and torque converter.
If you snap the cooler line this is how i fixed it
http://forums.focaljet.com/team-tech...oler-line.html


6.
THIS is the best way. The pump won't suck the new fluid up the hose, only pump it out of the pan.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:29 AM   #64
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The easiest way to flush:

1) pull the pan by tapping the front corner with a flat screwdriver...bolts loose...clean the pan well...install new filter....clean the magnet and put it in place...reinstall the pan making sure there is no lint or RTV in the pan or around the flange....do not overtighten the small bolts.

* I used filter kit with a rubber gasket that can be reused...AdvanceAP.

2) Add approx 3 qts ATF to the trans...remove the BOTTOM hose at the radiator*...put the end of it in a bucket...run the car at idle for just long enough that the flow almost stops. During this time you can shift thru the gears.

* earlier Focus had regular hose clamps?...later ones various types of special couplers...good luck with these.

3) Add another 3 qts ATF slowly and THEN do the SAME AS ABOVE.

4) Replace the hose at the radiator....securely.

5) Add another 3 qts ATF slowly to avoid hiccups....ATF coming back out of the tube.

6) Start the car up and look around under there for any leaks...clean drips off with a rag to check for sure.

7) Take the car out for a drive...10-15 miles...find a level spot of ground and check the fluid level when HOT....level should be between the top and bottom lines.

note....trans might act a little strange till it adjusts to the new fluid...make sure you end up with the correct level. Recheck for leaks.

For the most effective flush...you would use regular Mercon V fluid (6 qts) the first time...drive it for 2-3-4K miles...then flush again...this time leaving the pan and filter alone...just running 3 qts out through the line...adding 3 qts synth ATF...run 3 more qts out...add another 3 qts synth...replace the line. Check the level and add right amount of
Lubegard ATF additve.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:08 PM   #65
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Anyone ever have any issues doing this with older cars/trucks? Thinking about doing this to a:

2001 Ford Focus (SPI)---108,000 miles
1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0 V8 (170,000 miles)


Both cars have original filters and tranny fluid...and I'm wondering if doing a change now will possibly screw up the transmissions?? Thanks for any advice!!
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:02 AM   #66
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Would anyone be so kind to take a picture of their Transmission fluid Dipstick and what the level is suppose to be?

It's a pain in the butt, since the stick is so bent so by the time you take it out all the fluid drains down the stick.
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:44 AM   #67
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What year is the car thats shown in the pics?
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:47 PM   #68
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Nice!
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:51 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billjohnson View Post
Anyone ever have any issues doing this with older cars/trucks? Thinking about doing this to a:

2001 Ford Focus (SPI)---108,000 miles
1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0 V8 (170,000 miles)


Both cars have original filters and tranny fluid...and I'm wondering if doing a change now will possibly screw up the transmissions?? Thanks for any advice!!
If ur trans fluid or filter has never been changed then you may want to just leave it alone a friend of my dad owns a shop in detroit mi and he has told many people if you change out the old oil that has all the grit in it with new oil your trans may stop shifting due to the wear between the clutchs and friction plates. Id be careful on ny car with over 150k and never had a change
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:34 AM   #70
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You gotta be kidding..............if that logic worked then there is no need to ever change oil in motor or transmission again.

Repair shops just love people that think like that. You do realize right that new fluid cannot help hopelessly worn out parts because someone can't think enough to figure out that old oil caused the wear.

If you change fluid and car quits shortly after, then it was not changing the fluid earlier that caused the damage, not the new fluid. One is either smart enough to figure that out, or he isn't. The trans shops are ready and waiting for people like that.
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