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Old 10-12-2011, 08:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw5.0 View Post
Don't match the head to the intake, you may cause more problems by doing that.

By all means let us know what kind of power you gain, and if you lose any fuel economy.
Im not sure i understand what your saying? match it? you mean by porting it or something?
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:05 PM   #22
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I got the intake installed, just waiting on Tom with a new tune. It seems to run the same maybe slightly leaner. It started right up though, reved up kinda high after a few seconds then dropped back to normal.

I did a better job on this one with cleaning it and dressing it up.



I noticed something this time that i didnt seem to notice to much last time. Look how oily the intake ports are. I think i have about 500 miles or so on the PCV delete but before i put the intake back on i didnt clean out the intake before i put it back on. Oil had collected at the bottom of the bulb thing on the intake. Now it appears the intake is picking that oil up and moving it threw the intake ports.

This new intake has never been ran so its fresh and oil free and ive plugged the PCV inlet so maybe it stays a little cleaner.

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Old 10-12-2011, 09:01 PM   #23
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Cool. If your dumping the PCV to the ground i'd suggest venting the valve cover to the ground now as well since your not using the PCV valve anymore. The valve cover is the fresh air intake and the PCV dumps into the intake to be burnt off by the engine. Might be reverse flowing now causing you to be sucking oily air into the intake still and getting un-metered air after the MAF. Just a observation.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:17 PM   #24
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Cool. If your dumping the PCV to the ground i'd suggest venting the valve cover to the ground now as well since your not using the PCV valve anymore. The valve cover is the fresh air intake and the PCV dumps into the intake to be burnt off by the engine. Might be reverse flowing now causing you to be sucking oily air into the intake still and getting un-metered air after the MAF. Just a observation.
How by using a little filter ont he valve cover? I still have it hooked to the intake like how it was setup stock. That way the air it pulls in goes threw the CAI filter.

If the top is the inlet its way after the maf how can it be unmeterd? Its not taking in any air before the maf

This car had about 45k on it before i got it, i think just normal daily driving nothing high RPM.

Since i did the PCV ive hit 6k a few times and im sure that will stir up oil in the bottom of the intake.

Its really not reburning the oil. Its pulling in the engine air and reburning it but any oil burps just trickles down into the bulb at the bottom of the intake till it really gets wound up then im sure that mass of rushing air in has enough force to pickup the oil in the bulb and shoot it into the intake ports.

I poured another 1/4 of a cup of oil out of the stock intake today just to see how much oil was still in it. WHen i did the PCV delete a few months back i dumped some out then and was shocked it had that much in it. I should of dumped it all out then but didnt know what i was doing or why it had the oil in it. I understand it a little bit more now. I did the delete because i had a shaky idle and thought maybe the hose was cracked. It wasnt but it was alot of work so i went ahead and deleted it for no more question about it AND it makes removing the intake a whole lot easier.


Im pretty sure this is where the oil was comming from around the intake ports on the head. The new intake has no oil in it so im sure it will burn alot cleaner.
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Old 10-13-2011, 05:40 AM   #25
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Yes the little filter would work.

On the stock setup the air comes through the MAF then splits off and goes into the valve cover into the engine then out the PCV valve back into the intake; that way the already metered air returns to the intake but filled with the oily by-products of the crank case.

Now that you have vented the PCV valve that system is no longer "closed". Since the engine is always under vacuum, theoretically, air is being sucked into the vented PCV valve up through the crankcase and out of the valve cover then enters into your CAI after the MAF. Now how much air is making it in could be very small but its probably there none-the-less and filled with oily residue.

I'm sure you'll get it setup the right way. Looking forward to see if there are any gains.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:23 AM   #26
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Jgrove is correct, if you vent the pcv without also venting the valve cover, the system will reverse flow. You must disconnect both from the intake, otherwise it's quite pointless. It is also recommended that you drill out the spring in the pcv valve, so more of the fumes will vent through that instead of your valve cover.
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:41 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowerR64 View Post
Im not sure i understand what your saying? match it? you mean by porting it or something?
Correct, don't port match the intake port to the intake manifold opening, you could screw up the short turn radius.
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:55 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgrove998 View Post
Cool. If your dumping the PCV to the ground i'd suggest venting the valve cover to the ground now as well since your not using the PCV valve anymore. The valve cover is the fresh air intake and the PCV dumps into the intake to be burnt off by the engine. Might be reverse flowing now causing you to be sucking oily air into the intake still and getting un-metered air after the MAF. Just a observation.
I didnt want to believe it but i took your advice and did it anyway. It sure was spitting fuel out the top and into the port on the CAI the spout was all white and milky looking and oil started to run into the TB.

Now that i think about it, as the air rushes past that vent from the CAI its creating a draw from that vent and that draw has to come from some where so its drawing it right from the bottom. wow

It reminds me of how waterbed pumps work, you use the faucet and run the water and it then inturn pulls the water from the bed as the water rushes past it creates a draw on the other end. Simple but it works

Well this is what i decided to do.



I got some vent plugs from auto zone comes on a tree of various sizes. Handy to have anyway. Then i got some allen screw plugs. I first tried to plug the hose that came with the FSWerks CAI that looked like shit. So i took it off and used one of the larger plugs and pushed it in halfway. Then i screwed the littlest allen screw into the hose but down past the lip. Then i just used a utility knife and cut the extra from the rubber. The plug was already a tight fit i had to lube it up a little to slip it in then screwed the allen screw in made it alot tighter.

The inlet side on the valve cover was pretty easy. I just pulled the end from the stock like the pre formed plastic tube and pushed the filter right on the right angle fitting and clamped it down.

Thanks for the help on that.
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:34 AM   #29
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^Perfect! Now no oily air is getting into your engine! Time for tuning!
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Old 10-15-2011, 09:33 AM   #30
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Well, I am late to the party but I will input some info here as regards plugging the holes between the runners for any other folks wanting to do this. As the intake plastic is very hard and can be difficult to epoxy, the preferred method would be to use 'blind rivet nuts'. Specifically, a straight shank with a swag on the barrel. These fasteners are designed to embed into hard plastics. If that is not desirable (due to cost or difficulty pressing them in), then run a cone style steel wire brush through the holes, degrease, rinse and seal with 'PC-7' epoxy. I have had some experience sealing holes in plastics (unfortunately). The blind nuts are better as they have high mechanical grip. PC-7 is best as an epoxy as it will adhere to hard plastics (if prepped) and it is more of a paste/putty so you don't have runout like liquid steel.
Just FYI for future.
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