Deleting the tumble flaps

[BowerR64]

Well i didnt seem to find any how tos or any threads with any decent pictures of how to do it so i decided to just start a new thread and list my issues in here.

I tried to paint my intake and didnt like how it turned out so i decided to get a new one. Kdog from massive had a new one he sold me at a good price so i decided since i have 2 ill tear one of em up.

Since its already off the car that part is over but ive had my stock one off before to do the PVC delete it wasnt as bad as everyone made it sound. While it was off thats when i ruined it by trying to pretty it up.

T-25 torx to remove the 3 screws holding the actuator on then it just slips off the end of the square rod running threw all 4 flaps.


Use a pair of needle nose to slide the rod out. Mine is unused to it pulled out pretty easy. I remember my stock one has some carbon build up on it which might make it a little more tricky.



I used a flat head to pry around the lip of the flap sleve it just slide right out pretty straight forward.

Here you can see how much more it opens up with the sleve out. This is where im unsure what i should do. Leave the sleve out or keep it in?



With it out you can see it gains almost a 1/2" where it bolts to the head, but this might cause issues with the o-ring gasket?

Also now there is a long hole that goes from the lever where the actuator was all the way threw the whole intake mount. I know i want to plug the actuator side but what about on each intake port?

[Sponsor]

[Buickboy]

id leave the sleeve in but dremel down those two nubs that held the flap in place. I could see it having sealing issues without.

id be willing to bet that the inside of the sleeve matches up well with the port on the head, where the unsleeved one wont and looks bad for flow (sharp edges, weird shape)

[BooBerry]

Will you need to re-tune the car? I know on the 2005-10 mustangs they had those flaps and needed a re-tune. Think the 2012 focus has those as well?

[BowerR64]

Well i guess im committed on this one now. No going back now. Next is to figure out how to plug it up. I have an idea but ill have to think on it a bit more.



Plugs and "quick steel" i found at oreiley. The plugs looked like they might fit but i got the quick steel anyway its a putty you can need and it starts to mix together and setup. I figured i could roll it up stuff it into the intake holes and then slide the sleves over it. Since the holes on the intake are about .45" and the hole on the sleve is .27" the sleve will keep the plug in. Then when you bolt the intake to the head the head pushes on the sleve and holds it in.

I also found some rubber plugs that i got to slide in with a little oil and they are an automotive rubber so i think it will hold up just as good. I just need a few more.



And i got one inserted.


edit: Used the quick steel putty to plug the PCV inlet, the 2 vacuum ports one on the front and one on the right side of the intake near the TB and then i plugged the port where the actuator arm went in. I plugged it on the inside with those rubber vacuum plugs then the quick steel over top of them.

It hardens like JB weld and i dont see any of it being sucked in to the intake in these areas.

[BowerR64]

Originally Posted by BooBerry

Will you need to re-tune the car? I know on the 2005-10 mustangs they had those flaps and needed a re-tune. Think the 2012 focus has those as well?

Yeah im sure i will because it will probably change the way it runs and idles.

[BowerR64]

Originally Posted by Buickboy

id leave the sleeve in but dremel down those two nubs that held the flap in place. I could see it having sealing issues without.

That wont work


Ill need to find something larger that will fit into the intake but larger then the sleve. The sleve will holed the "plug" in the center between the 2 port.

Cant use glue or anything stupid, if the fuel breaks down the plug and it sucks it into the head it will detonate.

I think im playing with fire

Originally Posted by Buickboy

id be willing to bet that the inside of the sleeve matches up well with the port on the head, where the unsleeved one wont and looks bad for flow (sharp edges, weird shape)

I wondered about that when i did my PCV delete, look where the intake matches up with the head. The head actualy needs ported to match the intake.

[bespurcell]

I wouldn't worry about plugging the whole left by the rod. It just goes to the next runner right?

[BooBerry]

Originally Posted by bespurcell

I wouldn't worry about plugging the whole left by the rod. It just goes to the next runner right?

Wouldnt that mess with the air flow? The point of removing these is to get more flow of air not have it restricted and "bump" around? But i could be horribly wrong and not filling them might not matter. Dyno and get some sensor things so we can see numbers!

[BowerR64]

I got my pipes in thursday so i ran around all day trying to get it installed no one would do it so ill have to wait till monday which is who quoted me the price and stuff anyway but i hoped i could get it done today.

I think i want to plug them between each runner, also at the end where the lever from the actuator was attached to the rod.

Im not quite sure how it will work without them being plugged i just think i should.

[felixthecat]

Say, Ronnie your car will run & sound great w/ your new exhaust installed! What are you trying to do by deleting the tumble flap's? You will probitley gain some top end, but at the exspense of lower end torque, specialley w/ your header & exhaust system. You have a 20 motor, so it's going to be more noticeably than a 23 motor.