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Old 09-26-2011, 06:14 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by BowerR64 View Post
I dont quite understand how the clip works. Whats holding the right angle thing into the clip? you just pushed the red ring down into the gromet thing and it pulled out?

The socket has a tapered ID, smaller at the top and larger at the bottom.



This allows the clip (red part) to release when pressed down. The ID of the clip also has metal locks that lock the black hose when the clip is pulled up.




What is the trick taking the PCV retainer out to remove the valve?

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Old 09-26-2011, 06:31 PM   #52
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Cool on that clip ill have to see if i can get mine out easier now.

The PCV clip was a bear for me too. Another stupid ide by ford/mazda IMO

What i did was un bolt the plate this made it easier for me to get a better look at how its working and get jewler tools on it.

What i wound up doing was to use an exacto knife and i cut a little slot under the tabs. Right in the center, making it a "controled break" this way it will give where i want it to not where it decides to break usually making it not usable after that.

I then tried turning the ring a little and with the ring turned i shaved the tab on the part the ring fits over. I shaved the tab on one side on both tabs so when i rotated the ring i could kinda twist it off.

Hope this makes sence?
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Old 09-26-2011, 06:43 PM   #53
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These arnt my pictures i robbed these from focaljet but i did the same things he did here.

If you look at the top left i marked in red where i just shaved the side of the tab on the plate part so i could twist the ring off. I did both tabs on the same sides so i unscrewed it kinda and it poped out without breaking.

I gutted the new PCV i bought and threw out all the springs and valve junk.



And then i vented mine to the ground the same way he did his over to the drives side of the starter.


Also if you gut the PCV dont forget to plug the back of the intake this is the key to this whole repair plugging that thing so its not leaking.

I decided to just plug mine and let it vent to the ground so i wont ever have to question that line splitting again. I just got a good short hose and a bolt to plug it with and a hose clamp. Might be good to JBweld the hole closed or something also or seal it a cleaner way.
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:32 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowerR64 View Post

If you look at the top left i marked in red where i just shaved the side of the tab on the plate part so i could twist the ring off. I did both tabs on the
same sides so i unscrewed it kinda and it poped out without breaking.

I gutted the new PCV i bought and threw out all the springs and valve junk.


And then i vented mine to the ground the same way he did his over to the drives side of the starter.



Also if you gut the PCV dont forget to plug the back of the intake this is the key to this whole repair plugging that thing so its not leaking.
Appreciate the info & photos.

Will spend tomorrow cleaning the inside of the (dirty) intake manifold and making upgrades, like your modifications. My PCV hose had so many cracks in it, hard to say how long it's been drawing in unfiltered air. Don't have to add oil between 5000 mile oil/filter changes, so the rings may not be too bad. Will not buy the hose from the Ford Dealership tomorrow, going with a PCV (heater) hose running out below the oil pan, too.

The original hose was cracked on both sides in several places @110,000 miles




Have a neat 1/4" & 3/8" ratchets for tight places, makes it easy removing/installing some of the tough manifold bolts.



Used this little tool to grab the manifold bolts to keep them from getting lost.




Purchased a 17" 1/4" drive extention at Harbor Freight today used to remove intake bolt through the grill.

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Old 09-26-2011, 09:08 PM   #55
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When i had my intake off the bottom of the plenum was full of oil. When i was painting it i tipped it on its side and a ton of oil poured all over my pants.

I didnt expect it and i wondered how much oil was actually in it.

When the intake manifold is sitting upright like mounted on the car its that bulb at the bottom i think fills up with oil.

You might tip yours up on its side and let it sit in a pan or something and see if yours has collected oil as well.

Some one mentioned though it could help collect dust if any gets in?
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:52 AM   #56
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Oil drained out last night while the intake manifold was laying on it's side.

Thanks for the info!
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:20 PM   #57
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Finally decided to replace the PCV hose with a smaller ID, $11, sturdy heater hose for a Toyota Pickup, Gates 18423, about 1/2" ID hose. The OEM hose is about 5/8" ID. Will install a new PCV valve and leave the PCV system functioning as intended.

OEM hose next to the Toyota hose:





Toyota hose cut to size:





Smaller ID hose installed on the intake manifold using
K & N air filter seal grease:



Will be cleaning parts for the rest of the afternoon and hope to install the intake manifold tomorrow.
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:33 PM   #58
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How much oil would you say came out? I think about 1/4 of a cup leaked out on my pants. But im not sure how much was actually in there.

My hose wasnt split when i did mine but i wasnt sure so rather then question it i just did the delete before any problems did happen.

So since my hose wasnt split we had a hard time with it, the retainer clips that clamp around the hose were hard to get off we wound up cutting it.

I cant imagine fighting with it to put it back on the way it comes stock. Its so tight behind there that there just isnt alot of room.

Not sure how your going to do it but maybe once you have the side on the PCV and clamped you can do the back side of the intake from the bottom? might take 2 people? one to hole the manifold and one to push on the other side. The grease might help though?

When i had mine off i also cleaned my tumble flaps. Mine were pretty grimmy and didnt feel smooth. I didnt wipe them very hard i read they can fall out and then get sucked into the intake ports.

I think im going to buy a new intake manifold though and maybe remove those and then have it retuned with them off to see how it runs without them.

after market intakes dont even have them.
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:53 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowerR64 View Post
How much oil would you say came out? I think about 1/4 of a cup leaked out on my pants. But im not sure how much was actually in there.

My hose wasnt split when i did mine but i wasnt sure so rather then question it i just did the delete before any problems did happen.

So since my hose wasnt split we had a hard time with it, the retainer clips that clamp around the hose were hard to get off we wound up cutting it.

I cant imagine fighting with it to put it back on the way it comes stock. Its so tight behind there that there just isnt alot of room.

Not sure how your going to do it but maybe once you have the side on the PCV and clamped you can do the back side of the intake from the bottom? might take 2 people? one to hole the manifold and one to push on the other side. The grease might help though?

When i had mine off i also cleaned my tumble flaps. Mine were pretty grimmy and didnt feel smooth. I didnt wipe them very hard i read they can fall out and then get sucked into the intake ports.

I think im going to buy a new intake manifold though and maybe remove those and then have it retuned with them off to see how it runs without them.

after market intakes dont even have them.
May have gotten 1/8 cup of oil out.

Bought a bottle washer & degreaser (safe for plastic/rubber) to clean the manifold.

Thinking about either installing different screw driver operated hose clamps OR it's tight enough when installed with grease, may not need clamps at all. If replacement is needed, a box cutter can be used to cut slits & remove the hose, if clamps are not installed..

Used ropes to secure the manifold when I removed the OEM clamps & hose. Will probably use rope to position the manifold to slip the hose on the manifold last.

Just a thought:

Will be interesting to see how it goes with a sturdy hose. I believe the larger OEM hose cycles like a bellows, making it crack prematurely. The smaller water heater hose is stronger with nylon cord making it less likely to act like a bellows and should be more durable. Hope to wear the car out with this hose installed!

Appreciate the ideas and input!
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:32 PM   #60
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Great stuff with that toyota hose - When I dig into this I will definitely use that!
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