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Old 09-21-2011, 07:30 AM   #121
2012TI
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That is because there is not a problem that needs fixed. all the people having issues don’t know how to wait for the car to break in ( or break the car in the correct way) when the car was new they never took the car faster than 40 MPH, and they did not wind out the motor and shift the trans there self. The reason the car might be shaking is because of the way you people broke in the car and because of that it caused hot spots and glazing of the clutch disks. For the guy that traded in the Cobalt that was the best move you could have ever done. But if you like car and trucks with now class and loads of issues go get a GM. This new car ford made rocks just learn how to break the Trans in.
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:54 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2012TI View Post
That is because there is not a problem that needs fixed. all the people having issues don’t know how to wait for the car to break in ( or break the car in the correct way) when the car was new they never took the car faster than 40 MPH, and they did not wind out the motor and shift the trans there self. The reason the car might be shaking is because of the way you people broke in the car and because of that it caused hot spots and glazing of the clutch disks. For the guy that traded in the Cobalt that was the best move you could have ever done. But if you like car and trucks with now class and loads of issues go get a GM. This new car ford made rocks just learn how to break the Trans in.
2012TI,

Ok then in your professional opinion at what mileage should we consider it broken in? Can you refer me to any Ford documentation that supports your break in policy or is this just a opinion?

Montana
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:00 AM   #123
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WTF, I need some ideas on Auto Trans Disaster

Ok its a 2001 ZX3 Zetc 193k miles Automatic trans

I drive alot. After about 300 miles yesterday, I stopped at a sign. Started to take off and in mid of intersection I had a loud pop followed by gringing and whining along with loss drivability/ power. Thats noise was faster in drive and reverse and continued to do it in neutral as well. Its sounded like trying to shove a manual trans car into gear without using a clutch.

Whats the problem im dealing with here?
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:24 PM   #124
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NObody's stuck if they assert their rights .

Lemon Laws are different in every state, but for the most part, if you take the car in for service- get your problem documented on a service order! Two of three times with the same ( serious) issue and I think you've got a case.

Don't accept the grinding and jerking as "normal", "it won't cause a problem"," it's just the way it is, don't worry..."( or whatever excuse they happen to throw your way).

Fight them and get another car!
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:32 PM   #125
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Montana

I am from the old school days one would think with all the technology we have today that what we have learned in the old days would be long gone not when it comes to breaking in a engine or manual transmission (clutch based pedal or not) this same logic still applies. So to answer your question the first 300 miles on engine and Trans is the most important break in time that both will ever have. During this time the pistons, rings and cylinder walls are getting to new each other. (you remember the back in the day when you would here people say “ it is a new car don’t go over 50 MPH because it is new” that is by far one of the worst things one could do.) So back to break in, as the piston moves up and down with in the wall it knocks off microscopic pieces of the wall until there is a perfect relationships between the piston rings and the wall, this is also were the rings began to set. This will be the deciding factor of what kind of power this engine will have when it gets miles on it. It will also seal the deal if the motor will use oil not (burn it) so in a perfect world the rings would seat, and the wall would be a perfect match for the piston. Next step is to take the engine Very slowly to max RPM all under having 300 miles on the clock time and time again. So I must very clean on this I do not mean floor it and run it hard from 0-7300 RPM’s do it very slowly, this is also why the 2012 ford focus with power shift trans makes this so easy to do because you can put it in S mode and run it up very slow and very slow back down. This same logic is to be used with clutch disks, a clutch dish has lining on it and that lining can get very smooth (glazed) this will cause the clutch to be soft and have hot sport on the surface, so when you are going slow or fast and you hit this sport it will slip and than grab slip than grab, and this is were the shaking comes from. The proven way to break a clutch in is just the same way as the engine. The higher the RPMS are when you hit the next gear the computer in this case is going to call for 100% line pressure of the clutch and pressure plate, doing this over and over during the break in period will make the surface very course, in turn making the clutch not slip at all. I have had years of experience in doing this and you can tell between one that has been done this way and one that has not been. The 2012 ford focus DSP6 transmission has PWM (Pulse-width modulation) line pressure and when at low speeds in traffic were it will call for 50% line pressure and 0% pressure when foot of the gas in traffic, and than 50% or more depending how hard you push the gas down. If you have glazing or hot spots you are going to have problems. This is why it is very important that all people with any Clutch based Trans that you break you clutch in at high RPM’s with no slipping efforts. I hope I have shad some light on this I am not trying to be insulating to anyone. Thanks
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:49 PM   #126
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Quote:
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Montana

I am from the old school days one would think with all the technology we have today that what we have learned in the old days would be long gone not when it comes to breaking in a engine or manual transmission (clutch based pedal or not) this same logic still applies. So to answer your question the first 300 miles on engine and Trans is the most important break in time that both will ever have. During this time the pistons, rings and cylinder walls are getting to new each other. (you remember the back in the day when you would here people say “ it is a new car don’t go over 50 MPH because it is new” that is by far one of the worst things one could do.) So back to break in, as the piston moves up and down with in the wall it knocks off microscopic pieces of the wall until there is a perfect relationships between the piston rings and the wall, this is also were the rings began to set. This will be the deciding factor of what kind of power this engine will have when it gets miles on it. It will also seal the deal if the motor will use oil not (burn it) so in a perfect world the rings would seat, and the wall would be a perfect match for the piston. Next step is to take the engine Very slowly to max RPM all under having 300 miles on the clock time and time again. So I must very clean on this I do not mean floor it and run it hard from 0-7300 RPM’s do it very slowly, this is also why the 2012 ford focus with power shift trans makes this so easy to do because you can put it in S mode and run it up very slow and very slow back down. This same logic is to be used with clutch disks, a clutch dish has lining on it and that lining can get very smooth (glazed) this will cause the clutch to be soft and have hot sport on the surface, so when you are going slow or fast and you hit this sport it will slip and than grab slip than grab, and this is were the shaking comes from. The proven way to break a clutch in is just the same way as the engine. The higher the RPMS are when you hit the next gear the computer in this case is going to call for 100% line pressure of the clutch and pressure plate, doing this over and over during the break in period will make the surface very course, in turn making the clutch not slip at all. I have had years of experience in doing this and you can tell between one that has been done this way and one that has not been. The 2012 ford focus DSP6 transmission has PWM (Pulse-width modulation) line pressure and when at low speeds in traffic were it will call for 50% line pressure and 0% pressure when foot of the gas in traffic, and than 50% or more depending how hard you push the gas down. If you have glazing or hot spots you are going to have problems. This is why it is very important that all people with any Clutch based Trans that you break you clutch in at high RPM’s with no slipping efforts. I hope I have shad some light on this I am not trying to be insulating to anyone. Thanks
Let me ask this then, In your car when in S mode does the car shift automatically? Just at a higher shift point?

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Old 09-21-2011, 02:09 PM   #127
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Yes when in S mode it will shift automatically but when I first got the car I only used S mode and shifted it my self.

How many miles do you have on your car montana
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:12 PM   #128
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Yes when in S mode it will shift automatically but when I first got the car I only used S mode and shifted it my self.

How many miles do you have on your car montana
Just a tad over 1000.

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Old 09-21-2011, 03:11 PM   #129
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That is because there is not a problem that needs fixed.
Really? A car; a man-made machine with hundreds of moving parts; and no problems? Come on man. Really? You discredit yourself in your first statement.

Quote:
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all the people having issues don’t know how to wait for the car to break in ( or break the car in the correct way)
Slight generalization don't you think? I'm sure there are a few people here who haven't waited long enough, but as for myself, for example, I've waited over 6000 miles. So watch out for blanket statement.

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when the car was new they never took the car faster than 40 MPH, and they did not wind out the motor and shift the trans there self.
Did you ask everyone here before you made this statement? No you didn't. I drove mine nearly 80 MPH for nearly 200 miles the day after I bought it. And I used select shift a good bit, initially. (BTW, I also hate the way it down-shifts automatically, even when in S, causing drag when you trying to coast)

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The reason the car might be shaking is because of the way you people broke in the car and because of that it caused hot spots and glazing of the clutch disks.
"You people"? Really? And you later say you're not trying to insult anyone. Grow up and try being a bit more constructive. No one will every take anything you say seriously.
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Old 09-21-2011, 03:25 PM   #130
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In response to 2012Ti, that is the most ridiculous thing i've heard!!! I've never known anybody to have to "break in" a new car, it's not a pair of leather gloves!! FYI the very first day I actually drove only on the highway for about an hour to be exact b/c the dealership is not at all near my house, and besides, perhaps just perhaps you got lucky and did not experience this with your car or any friends of yours for that matter, but you can't tell me that from how many complaints have been posted explaining the exact same problem symptoms that there isn't an issue, obviously someone is covering up something. Until you actually put yourself in someone's place who just spent $21, 000.00 and fears they've bought a lemon, please don't tell us we don't know how to "break a car in". Thanks:-)
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