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Old 07-17-2011, 07:35 PM   #31
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So now everything works but the ac? next thing would be to take the pressure or try swapping the AC relay with a know good relay.
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:48 PM   #32
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Last things first... Schaler Jacobson on the southside is the only place I trust after everything Dahl Ford in Onalaska put me through. Trust me, it's unbelievable. Mike at Schaler is good to deal with, tell him Cory (USARice) sent ya.
I worked retail in town a few years ago, and after my contact with one of the Dahl boys I wouldn't even let them tune up my lawnmower if they asked.

SJ is doing my saabaru alignment tomorrow after Conway's done with suspension work, I'll be making the appt for the little lady's zx3 after that...there's some hail damage too, I've been looking for a one-stop shop for her. thanks for the referral.

And yeah, I've been lurking a while, y'all got some good info here - keep it up!
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Old 07-18-2011, 03:58 PM   #33
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You can't buy AC recharge stuff retail in WI (it's technically illegal here), so I had to order online and bought this http://www.quadratec.com/products/98...googlemerchant recharge/r12 retrofit kit. The gauge pictured isn't actually what was in the kit, but it's simple and did the job fine. If you recharge it, don't remove the fender liner entirely, you can just remove a couple of the infuriating plastic things in front and pull it out of the way enough to get at the low side port.
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:38 PM   #34
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that stuff is a quick fix I guess but I don't like the stop leak part of it. Just sends a crap ton of "gunk" to clog up any leaks..... problem is if you ever have it serviced at a shop when it's sucked down the reclaim machine it pretty much destroys it. From there, if they're smart they will charge you for a new machine if they find out you put stop leak in it. 4k extra bill not worth it.

That's my input on those refrigerant kits.... that and I don't understand why they sell them. it's still technically illegal to buy freon without a license.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:14 PM   #35
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Never use stop-leak, avoid it at all cost. It's a theory, similar to the "Trickle Down" theory, it will work in some situations, but not all situations. More often than not, all the refrigerant leaks out anyway, exposing the internal system to moisture, which solidifies the stop leak in your system- most definitely the compressor.

I'll have to go back and review, I thought this seemed like a simple problem earlier, and I'm sorry I didn't keep up.

OK, so we're still at the mystery of why the AC won't come on. You have a few things to test. First off, do you have a digital multi-meter, and do you understand terms like resistance and "finding continuity"? You'll need to know how to understand what you see when you test the diode. The basics are easy- first check the fuse, remove and test for continuity- rarely do fuses fail yet look good, but it does happen. Next, I'd test the whole system- engine off. Unplug the AC compressor leads, turn the key ON, AC on, and test for voltage. You should get it no matter what because without the AC on both pressure switches should be closed if you have any charge at all. If you don't, first bypass the low pressure switch at the accumulator using a piece of solid copper wire or paperclip to bridge the 2 points on the connector, and test again. If you still don't have power then your problem is back up there at the relay or the diode in the under hood fuse box. The easiest way to test a relay is to swap it with another relay of the same type- like the headlight relay should be the same IIRC. Then turn on your low beams and see if it works. Relays are a PITA to remove, don't yank, pull while holding the rest of the box down, and wiggle. If it's not the relay then it's the diode. The diode can be tested by putting the leads of your tester on both sides of the diode, if it doesn't show continuity (0.1 ohms), then swap how you have your tester hooked up- red to black, etc. Diodes only flow voltage in one direction, so you'll only get continuity - to + but not + to -.

Now in one of those tests I just told you how to bypass the LP switch in the AC system to make sure everything else is working. If you have to do that, don't leave it like that unless you unplug the AC clutch, and leave it unplugged. If you run your compressor without refrigerant or oil- you'll be getting a new one. Bypassing the LP switch to get voltage at the clutch indicates you either have no charge, or your LP switch is bad which would require you to discharge the system anyway. Hopefully it's a diode or a relay, but the most likely problem is low charge.
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:57 AM   #36
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no valve on these under the switch so as to not need to evacuate the system to change a switch like on most vehickles?
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:52 AM   #37
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no valve on these under the switch so as to not need to evacuate the system to change a switch like on most vehickles?
I'm not sure, I haven't changed a switch in here, but my old Aerostar didn't have a valve, and the LP switch was in the accumulator, IIRC, the Focus system has the LP switch in the accumulator.
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:03 AM   #38
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Most A/C systems (not all) have a valve under the switches so as to not make changing the switch a major issue. Don't crack the switch to find out because it will hold the valve open (if it has one) and drain the ac. I think it's the r12 systems that don't have the valve.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:38 PM   #39
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To all who said low freon, w00t! It was holding at 6/10 and took another 13oz. Will scan for leaks in a couple days....shouldn't have fixed it. Forgot how much of dog it turns into when the ac is on.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:59 PM   #40
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almost a pound low... you must have a leak, but imagine that it works
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