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Old 06-17-2011, 11:34 PM   #21
ryankenn
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This test worked awesome for me as well, but a search didn't lead to any threads about what to look for to fix 4 Flashes ( Speed Signal Circuit open or damaged ). I check 53/54/59 fuses all good. Brakes lights good, speedo works fine.

The car isn't throwing a CEL which I thought it would if a speed sensor was gone. The Cruise worked fine until last week. What should I be looking at for this problem? Its says wheel speed sensor, does a 2001 Focus have wheel speed sensors??
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:21 PM   #22
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My documentation indicates 4 flashes indicates the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or circuitry may be faulty or the cruise control speed control actuator itself may need attention.
Auto or manual vehicle? The VSS is located on the passenger side of the diff on manual gear boxes. If your speedometer isn't acting up, it's likely the VSS communication between the ECU and the speed control actuator. The actuator compares the speed recorded by the ECU against the desired cruise speed and opens the throttle accordingly.
The speed control actuator is behind the LH headlamp. Try removing and cleaning the electrical connector.
Wheel speed sensors are irrelevant; they are used by the ABS braking system, if fitted.
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:16 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_ZX3 View Post
Wheel speed sensors are irrelevant; they are used by the ABS braking system, if fitted.
I'll second that, right now my rear passenger side wheel speed sensor circuit definitely has an open and cruise control still works, so it apparently plays no role in the system. Anybody reading this, keep in mind the stuff in parenthesis was my interpretations and assumptions, and in this case wrong. The rest is straight from Ford.
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:23 AM   #24
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that guy sure knows his stuff
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:41 AM   #25
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Thanks guys. I'll have a look when the car comes back ( my wife left for her trip ). Its an Auto vehicle.
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:07 AM   #26
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This thread is really helpful, but I'm still having a hard time diagnosing a cruise control problem.

I have a 2002 Focus SE auto sedan and the cruise suddenly quit working - no light on the dash comes on and nothing happens when I press the switch.

I do have LED brake light bulbs, high mount stop light bulbs and license plate light bulbs, but I'm pretty sure I used the cruise control after installing them with no problems. Data on this seems inconclusive. (But perhaps I was wrong about it working as that is seeming like the most probable cause).

I wasn't able to get the diagnostic mode to work. When I turn the car on with the OFF button depressed the Cruise light on the dash comes on for the bulb test, but when I left go of it, nothing flashes and nothing flashes when I press the specified buttons either.

I tried removing the green switch and it came out really easily and then I couldn't get it to go back in (but I didn't have the trim panel removed either). I was thinking maybe the switch just came loose from the bracket and that is the problem.

I didn't have a jumper wire with small enough terminals, so I tried using a paper clip across the terminals and that didn't work - but it might not have had good contact.

I took the green switch in the house and verified it had continuity when the plunger was depressed and not when it wasn't.

I was going to try plugging the switch in with a clamp holding the plunger depressed, but when I tightened the clamp, it collapsed the switch (before it was stopping at about 1/2-inch out for the depressed position). I connected the switch and it fell out of the clamp, but I managed to manually depress the plunger by hand while driving, but it still didn't work. Looks like I need to buy a new switch either way, unless there is some way to take it apart and get it to ratchet back out.

At this point, I don't think it is the green brake switch (although it looks like I might be replacing it anyway). It could be the switch buttons, the module, or a wiring fault, or the LED's (which seems likely).

It was a pretty stupid idea if Ford ran the brake lights through the cruise control, but it looks like they probably did. At this point, replacing the LED's back to incandescents is probably the easiest way to see if I can get the cruise control working again. I don't want to splice the factory wiring to install resistors that cost almost as much as the bulbs. And I really hope the cruise will work with LED's in the 3rd brake light as I don't want to go back to 194's as 2/3rds of them were broken and it looks like it would be a real pain to install resistors on each light inside that housing.

If anyone has tips on why the diagnostic won't work, or how to restore the switch, or how likely LED tails are to cause this, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:10 AM   #27
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Okay - I got the problem sorted out ... it was the bulbs.

I remembered that the rear turn signals and brake lights used the same bulbs and I hadn't changed to LED turn signals.

Swapped the turn signals and tail lights and the cruise works fine when I hold the green switch plunger in. The turn signals flash really fast, but still work. I could add a special flasher to deal with that, but I'll probably just go back to standard bulbs.

Really dumb design by Ford in this case.

So at least on my car, you can use LED 3rd brake lights, but not both 3rd brake lights and tail-lights. (Not sure if LED tails would work if I still had 194's in the 3rd brake lights).

I still need to take apart the green switch and would appreciate tips on that, but I figure I can't break it any worse than I already have ...
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:46 AM   #28
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Good that you got the cruise control issue sorted out. It sounds like you did the same thing I accidentally did and pushed that plunger in right? This was awhile ago, but if I remember correctly there's a circular metal clip that holds the plunger ratchets detents. If you can pull the clip out and manage to hold onto it you should be able to pull the plunger out some and then reinsert the clip and the switch should still be serviceable.
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:00 PM   #29
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From this thread:


@6SPD_Sould - Thanks!!! I already took the connector off - just to be absolutely certain - you mean AFTER I pry the dark green and light green sections apart, corrrect? (I can't see any other way to do it, but ...)

Thanks again!!!
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:55 PM   #30
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I'm afraid I don't remember it that well anymore. Like I said, I know there's a smaller circular clip that holds the plunger in place somehow. Maybe I did separate those two other sections and the clip was accessible after doing that. In fact I think that was it. If you've got a dremel or even a drill with a smallish bit, you can kind of axe away at the locking tab things enough to pull the two apart.

I already had the new switch in and was just doing this to satisfy my own curiosity about how it worked, but I remember thinking it looked repairable after I had it apart. Worst case scenario, the switch is only like $25 from Ford so it's not too bad.
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