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Old 01-17-2011, 03:23 PM   #61
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[i]Posted via FF Mobile

I cleared it up on FJ. There are 2 washers on the crank.1 behind the timing gear and one that everybody is seeing on the front. If you look close, you will see that the bolt is also in the crank and that it is holding a sleeve over the crank snout. It was there temporarily to hold the timing gear in place until the balancer was installed....


EDIT: Well crap !!! I see you guy`s beat me to it....
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:10 PM   #62
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DUDE!!!! To the OP, this build is BAD A$$$$$$$!!! GREAT JOB MAN!!!
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Old 01-18-2011, 05:44 PM   #63
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Got a question. When the machine shop balanced the crank, rods and pistons Is it a good idea to balance the Fly wheel at the same time? I am going to use a Fidanza Aluminum FW. Or are the FW`s already balanced? Thanks
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:53 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iroc34 View Post
Got a question. When the machine shop balanced the crank, rods and pistons Is it a good idea to balance the Fly wheel at the same time? I am going to use a Fidanza Aluminum FW. Or are the FW`s already balanced? Thanks
when I balanced my crank we did it with the flywheel bolted up.
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Old 01-19-2011, 06:53 AM   #65
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Got a question. When the machine shop balanced the crank, rods and pistons Is it a good idea to balance the Fly wheel at the same time? I am going to use a Fidanza Aluminum FW. Or are the FW`s already balanced? Thanks
They balance it seperate in case you ever have to replace it then you won't have to have the whole thing rebalanced. Im going to have them check my flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate.
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Old 01-19-2011, 06:54 AM   #66
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Ok i finally was able to get out in the garage and get it cleaned up and move the car and get it up on jack stands to start getting some stuff done.

First thing i did was remove the drivers side headlight and cut out the fender well behind it to get it ready for the charge piping.





Then i pulled out the 3" flex pipe so that we can cut off the two bolt flange and change it out to a vband setup.



Then i pulled out the intercooler so we can change out the inlet and outlets. Going from 2" inlet to 2.5" and a 2.5" outlet to 3".



Then i started swapping out the lower rad support for the lakewood setup. Had this stuff sitting in my garage for at least 5 years now but could mount it up cause my old downpipe was in the way. Im mounting everything thing up then making my downpipe, dumptube, and charge pipes to make sure it all clears each other.





Not sure how im gonna deal with this just yet but the Topspeed street mani puts my Turbonetics turbo almost directly above the center brace of the traction bar kit. FML!







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Old 01-19-2011, 08:46 AM   #67
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Clock the housing to the front and add a 90 degree silicone elbow
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Old 01-19-2011, 11:43 AM   #68
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Build looks great. Just wondering what the small piping is on the front of the intercooler?
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Old 01-19-2011, 12:28 PM   #69
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NOS intercooler spray bar.
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:03 PM   #70
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NOS intercooler spray bar.
Thats what I figured but wanted to confirm.
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