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Old 08-17-2010, 12:58 PM   #11
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Really? I was just there and got a pair of copper eyelets for 3 bucks.

But when I first did this I went to O'Reilly and got everything. Not exactly cheap though, I think roughly 50-60 bucks for everything.
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:52 PM   #12
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I just bought ring terminals at Kragen, maybe try there. SonicElectronix has pairs of 0/1 ring terminals for 3 bucks, so you can get 10 feet of good wire and 6 ring terminals for $34, not too bad.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:50 PM   #13
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i dont have kragen in my area.
auto zone has some ring terminals but the biggest were 2 gauge.
they did have replacement battery cables(2 gauge) would that be good to use to replace the chassis to ground and the small neg bat to chassis wires?they both look like 10 gauge.
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:33 PM   #14
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Order it online then. Here's the link for the 3 dollar ring terminals:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y+Scosche.html
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:52 PM   #15
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Has anyone done the big 3 to a duratec? Im gonna do my big 3 this week and was just wondering if anyone have done it.
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Old 12-03-2010, 02:07 AM   #16
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Has anyone done the big 3 to a duratec? Im gonna do my big 3 this week and was just wondering if anyone have done it.
This is one of those things where the procedure is nearly identical for all cars. The only real difference is the exact location of the alternator/battery/etc. I'm sure someone has done it.
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Old 12-03-2010, 03:14 AM   #17
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Old 12-03-2010, 03:30 AM   #18
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Has anyone done the big 3 to a duratec? Im gonna do my big 3 this week and was just wondering if anyone have done it.
There is no HUGE difference between a zetec and duratec. You re-ground the battery, re-ground the engine...either find an existing little ground or make a new one from chassis to block, then do the alternator.

When i made the big three for myself and others I used Copper terminals...Pepboys or autozone and 4G wire . They look good and you can use solder instead of crimping the wire. better connection. I wouldn't use Home Depot ground wire because it's for household and the resistance is not the same as it would be for automotive.
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:08 AM   #19
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Ok thanks for the info guys. Im gonna be using JL Audio 0G wire since i have lots of it and already have copper terminals. Im gonna solder the ends so it doesnt corrude and has better connection. Anything else im missing beside heat shrink?
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Old 12-03-2010, 01:19 PM   #20
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Ok thanks for the info guys. Im gonna be using JL Audio 0G wire since i have lots of it and already have copper terminals. Im gonna solder the ends so it doesnt corrude and has better connection. Anything else im missing beside heat shrink?

your good.
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