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Old 09-02-2010, 12:38 PM   #41
lbrowne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SanduskySerpents View Post
it is 6.9ish.... I drain the pain. (appox 3 qts) then i remove the cooler line and put it in an empty quart bottle have someone run the engine and move shifter through R N D 1 2 till that quart is full of old fluid (obvious color diff) then add a quart of fresh fluid, repeat till i have 4 bottles full. thats about 7 quarts when you are draining that last quart you will see the fresh fluid come through.
So you drop/drain the pan, I'm guessing leave the old filter in.

Put it back together. Disconnect cooler line.

Add fluid and keep going till what comes out of the cooler line is clean like you're putting in....

Then drop the pan and change filter, reassemble and fill with fluid...
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:37 PM   #42
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I'm sorry I should have been more clear.
1. Remove pan.
2. Remove/Replace Filter. There is a sensor attached to the filter dont break it.
3. Install pan and gasket.
4. Add 3 Quarts
5. Remove transmissoin oil cooler return line ( coming from transmissoin) this line likes to rust to spray with liquid wrench or PB blaster. If it snaps dont freak.
6. if you have a large enough clear hose put it on the cooler line and put it in an empty quart bottle. (clear tube helps you see color better.)
7. (2 person part) Have some one start the car with ebrake on and holding brake and move the automatic shifter through gears. shut off when one quart out. note dark color.
8. add 1 quart you are now at 4.
9. start car shift through again and shut off when another quart is full.
10. add quart now at 5.
11. start car shift through again and shut off when another quart is full.
12. add quart now at 6
13.start car shift through again and shut off when another quart is full should be bright red and new. reattach cooler line.
14. add quart now at 7.

this method makes sure you get all the old fluid out of the cooler and torque converter.
If you snap the cooler line this is how i fixed it
http://forums.focaljet.com/team-tech...oler-line.html


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Old 09-15-2010, 08:50 PM   #43
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I need a little help here, is everyone using Mercon V fluid? The manual says to use Mercon V and nothing else, is this correct?

Also I keep trying to check the fluid level and I think the fluid may be too hot. (In Arizona 100 degree heat) I can never tell on the dipstick exactly where the level is, its just to thin. At first I thought it was low so i added about a quart and then got the same reading as before. I guess I'm going to have to let it cool down and try again.
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:16 PM   #44
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Transmission fluid must be checked with the engine idling. There are 2 sections on the dipstick- one for cold, and one for hot.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:08 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabbit View Post
I need a little help here, is everyone using Mercon V fluid? The manual says to use Mercon V and nothing else, is this correct?
Well, it has to meet the specs for Mercon V. Do you want to use something that doesn't meet this spec? I'll be using Mobil 1 synthetic ATF when I do my tranny flush in a few weeks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabbit View Post
Also I keep trying to check the fluid level and I think the fluid may be too hot. (In Arizona 100 degree heat) I can never tell on the dipstick exactly where the level is, its just to thin. At first I thought it was low so i added about a quart and then got the same reading as before. I guess I'm going to have to let it cool down and try again.
I have the same problem right now (in the 90s here in CO). The online manual for my '02 says to check the fluid between 120F-140F, so a short drive (5 mi?) is going to be enough to get it up to correct inspection temp when you're starting out at 100F.
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Old 12-22-2010, 07:50 PM   #46
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Great write up!
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Old 12-23-2010, 10:24 AM   #47
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Fantastic, I need to change my fluid soon also.
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Old 12-31-2010, 02:46 PM   #48
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The kit, filter and gasket, that Advance Auto is selling has a rubber gasket. I put one on today and used no RTV. Torqued pan bolts to about 60 inch-pounds as per manual.

And why does that Mercon fluid smell so d$%m bad? Ugh!

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Old 03-13-2011, 01:05 PM   #49
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I just did a drop the pan and change the filter routine...and was trying to follow the Haynes manual...a mistake.

How I did it:

* Jacked the car up some on the drivers side in front...with an extra safety support.

* Undid all the 10 mm bolts...leaving 2 out about 1/8th "...on both sides of the pan in the middle.

* Used a medium flat blade screwdriver and small hammer to tap on the front corners between the pan and trans casting...just until it started to break loose.

* then drained the fluid...and removed the last 2 bolts.

Here is a pic of the pan when off...

http://www.nonags.org/members/nijqk/ZX3tpan.JPG

Notice where I swiped the magnet with my finger...lots of sludge on it and in the bottom of the pan.

Used a dull putty knife to clean up most of the old RTV from the pan...and then used paper towels to clean it up...then some gasoline...then sprayed it with carb cleaner....checking CAREFULLY for lint or old RTV pieces.

Got a face full of ATF when I pulled the old filter off. Put some ATF on the o-ring on the new filter and snapped it into place (watch the locator thingy on the other end) and connected the temp sensor.

Cleaned up the gasket surface on the trans with the putty knife and cleaned the surface with gasoline.

Went over the inside of the pan and the trans flange area very carefully...looking for lint or RTV chunks.

My filter kit had a rubber gasket...just laid it on top of the pan and put it into place...putting in all the bolts. Snugged them up to what I thought was a reasonable torque for these small bolts....not much.

Added about 2 1/2 qts ATF...will top it up after driving some. Good idea to have extra ATF with you and get it topped up as soon as you can?

note: fluid was brownish...but did not smell burnt...but there was enough sludge in the pan to make me think it hadn't been changed since new...over 100K miles. The grayish silicone was the only goop that had been on there...so it was the factory stuff.

Intend to redo the pan/filter in a few K miles after using some Lubegard ATF flush chemical....and then do a full flush with 7 qts synth ATF.

......

Dropped the pan again...this is the 3rd time...ended up dropping it...cleaning it...after adding new regular Mercon V 2Xs previously.

This time I cleaned the pan...put in a new Motorcraft filter....then filled with 3 qts Redline synth ATF. I then removed the LOWER rubber coolant line at the driver's side corner of the radiator...put a plastic tube on the METAL part of the line leading to a drain pan...and ran the engine at idle until the old fluid stopped flowing out. Shut the engine off and put the coolant line back on.

* Getting the rubber line off of the ALUM cooler line can be tricky...the rubber is stiff...the aluminum line is soft...take care? I reused the spring clip when I put it back on.

Then added another 2.5 qts Redline ATF to the trans...you need to do this slowly...otherwise you can get a bubble of air in the small tube and have some ATF come back up and spill out.

I also used 10 oz of a trans additive along with the ATF...but still got most of the 6 qts in.

* Will say that if I had it to do over again...I would go ahead and do a full flush using 6 qts Mercon V ($20 + filter)...drive it for 1K-2K miles...and then redo the full flush using the synthetic ATF with new filter. Even with at least 2/3s new ATF and new filter...and the pan cleaned 2XS...I STILL got dirty looking ATF out and when looked at in the sun...it was somewhat metallic looking...meaning it had metal particles still in it.

The pic below shows samples of the old ATF after dropping the pan 3Xs and adding new fluid...~ 3 qts each time. This includes a new filter on the 1st pan cleaning. 1st...2nd...3rd...left to right. The ATF from the last pan cleaning STILL had gunk in it including metal fines that could be seen if the drain pan was set in the sun.




I also put a large neo magnet on the OUTSIDE of the trans pan just in front of the locater "bump" for the ceramic magnet inside the pan. To be useful...this magnet has to be a neo and large for the magnetic flux to penetrate the heavy steel pan. This is to help collect any steel particles circulating in the ATF.
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:12 AM   #50
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I drained the trans fluid like the book said, break loose one corner, blaa blaa, anyways I drained the old oil in a big drain pan, cleaned the bottom of he tranny and the pan and and added about 6 quarts. the book said it would take 6.9 quarts........... Well, i have leakage, bad leakage. first time with the gasket, 2nd time no gasket just blue rtv, 3rd time grey rtv. still leaking badly!! Oh, when i finally poured the old fluid into a couple of one gallon jugs, I didnt even fill up one of them. less that 4 quarts! But i added 6 qts. Did i screw up my tranny, or what can i do to fix it! I really need help, my driveway is a mess and my wife is PISSED OFF!! Please help, thankx
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