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Old 08-25-2010, 12:38 AM   #11
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I was going to recommend using the old crank the over the engine with a breaker bar attached also.If you dont mind buying a pump or front crank oil seal. heat the bolt up just a touch with an acetylene torch to loosen it up. If not make sure the engine can not turn over and use a 3/4 inch or 19mm drive breaker bar and a really long pipe.

But seriously a little heat can't do anything but help the situation. Notice i said a little.
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:50 AM   #12
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just wondering, what is the TQ rating on those impact guns?

and wow I'm surprised tapping the ignition didn't knock it loose. works great on subarus. lol.
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I had a spare tire go up in flames once, my truck was hit with an rpg though.
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Old 08-25-2010, 01:02 AM   #13
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I was wondering the same i guarantee my IM6500 snap-on with approx 200+ psi line pressure would take her off lol. Then again i do destroy the guns quite often due to the fact they recommend 125 psi working pressure lol.
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Old 08-25-2010, 01:31 AM   #14
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lol yes they do.

i bet my nitrocat 1200 could undo that sucker though :)
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I had a spare tire go up in flames once, my truck was hit with an rpg though.
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Old 08-25-2010, 04:34 PM   #15
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Posted via FF MobileAfter the last long disaster when one of those wouldn`t come out, as mentioned above, I`m still wondering if access to a better/larger air impact might help. Like a good 3/4 inch instead of the 1/2 inch guns that don`t seem to do it....
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Old 08-25-2010, 04:36 PM   #16
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Posted via FF MobilePersonally I`d try to get it with a 1" gun if it didn`t budge, even breaking it that way would be easier than the grind the head off method.....
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:14 PM   #17
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The best method may still be to apply heat to the bolt and hope it expands it slightly.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:08 AM   #18
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Posted via FF MobileUmmm.... I think you`ve got it backwards, heating bolt to expand it would make threads tighter in the hole.... Unless you`re thinking it would get enough longer when heating just the end to reduce the tension on it.... Heating bolts generally makes them snap easier & they`re tighter in whatever they screw into - heat on NUT (crankshaft in this case) would expand it, but crank isn`t accessable & I wouldn`t want to heat it much anyways! The last person with this issue had an overtorqued bolt that caused too much "sticktion" under the shoulder to turn out with reasonable force. bolt came out easily once head was cut off & tension released. That`s why I mentioned higher torque impact wrench, it`ll break or come out & removal/replacement becomes easier then - avoiding the PITA of trying to grind a LARGE head off in a confined space.....
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:15 AM   #19
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^I see what you are getting at, but heat can be your friend. It will get rid of any locktight, rust or anything that could be causing it to be siezed up. Just be careful.
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:25 AM   #20
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The best method may still be to apply heat to the bolt and hope it expands it slightly.
Nope, like sailor wrote, exactly the opposite. You apply the heat to the crank which is why it's not an easy thing to do in this case. You'd have to drop the oil pan, and at that point you might as well see if there's some way to shove a block of wood (not metal) between the crank and the block when you've gone that far. You'd be more likely to start a fire trying to do this with a propane torch which is what I've always used for heat. Now you can use heat on the bolt to disintegrate the thread lock if there is thread lock on there. You might be able to get away with heating the bolt until the crank got hot, then cooling the bolt with dry ice, but I'm afraid you'd seriously damage the integrity of the pulley at some point in there since it's the weakest metal link.

Where's the OP? Has he already broken this loose- or broken the head of the bolt off?
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