ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement

[sailor]

Posted via FF Mobile The best part of this approach, is that if it doesn`t work - gets damaged or worn out - the hole is still small enough to helicoil to std. size...

[Jon_SVT]

Good call... I haven't started yet. I gotta get a cherry picker to pull the engien up high enough to get a straight tap/drill bit into it. Can't do precision work, working at an angle really....

I think I'll do just that, tap it to an imperial bolt then try that route. What size would be the next one up from an 8mm metric bolt?

[the_doc735]

Originally Posted by Jon_SVT

Good call... I haven't started yet. I gotta get a cherry picker to pull the engien up high enough to get a straight tap/drill bit into it. Can't do precision work, working at an angle really....

I think I'll do just that, tap it to an imperial bolt then try that route. What size would be the next one up from an 8mm metric bolt?

* 1mm = just over 1/32 inch
* 2mm = just over 1/16 inch
* 3mm = almost 1/8 inch
* 4mm = 5/32 inch (= a bit over 1/8 inch)
* 5mm = just over 3/16 inch
* 6mm = almost 1/4 inch
* 7mm = almost 9/32 inch (= a bit over 1/4 inch)
* 8mm = 5/16 inch
* 9mm = almost 3/8 inch
* 10mm = just over 3/8 inch
* 11mm = almost 7/16 inch
* 12mm = almost 15/32 inch (= almost 1/2 inch)
* 13mm = just over 1/2 inch
* 14mm = almost 9/16 inch
* 15mm = almost 19/32 inch
* 16mm = 5/8 inch
* 17mm = almost 11/16 inch
* 18mm = just over 11/16 inch
* 19mm = 3/4 inch
* 20mm = 25/32 inch
* 21mm = just over 13/16 inch
* 22mm = almost 7/8 inch
* 23mm = 29/32 inch
* 24mm = just over 15/16 inch
* 25mm = almost 1 inch

Also, can't you use a 90° [right angle] drill adapter; that should go in the available spacer easier, maybe not require any engine lift?

[FordZX32000]

First of all this is an AWESOME Post !!!!
Is there a reason why the valve covers need to be removed while changing the timming belt ?
In other words do they have to come off in order to remove the timming belt cover ?

[sailor]

Posted via FF Mobile Needs to come off for timing check & set. Making your own marks to "cheat" by replacing belt without checking & resetting timing as needed could be done, but Ford wanted near perfect timing, not just close - so they made it possible through their adjustable sprockets. One small oops and you`re off quite a bit, is it wort chancing that? Plus you would probably have a harder time getting it close by the "cheat" of not checking the cams than by doing it right. Your call, if not VERY experienced and knowledgeable don`t even THINK of trying your own method....really not worth it...

[FordZX32000]

Originally Posted by sailor

Posted via FF Mobile Needs to come off for timing check & set. Making your own marks to "cheat" by replacing belt without checking & resetting timing as needed could be done, but Ford wanted near perfect timing, not just close - so they made it possible through their adjustable sprockets. One small oops and you`re off quite a bit, is it wort chancing that? Plus you would probably have a harder time getting it close by the "cheat" of not checking the cams than by doing it right. Your call, if not VERY experienced and knowledgeable don`t even THINK of trying your own method....really not worth it...

Just checking I was told that valve covers didn't have to come off and I needed that confirmation.

Would the timming need to be set and or checked if just replacing the belt that hasn't broke or lost teeth yet ?

Thanks Sir....

[sailor]

Posted via FF MobileSimple answer - yes. To explain even more, older engines and probably some current ones used fixed pulleys with timing marks. This ALWAYS resulted in timing that was "off" by half a notch, and you would set it so if the belt stretched at all it would come closer to spec.. Ford system allows exact timing setting, new belt is prob. not exactly identical to old, and setting by timing marks without multiple attempts is an art in itself. read up on procedure, use official timing tools or alternatives discussed in threds on this, check old threads for some how-to advice, then post any questions that come up as you do the job or you are confused about B4 you begin. MUCH easier once you see the pieces and see how they work...

[Jon_SVT]

be EXTREMELY careful with threading in the bolts into the block for water pump and other components... lol

I'm learning that one the hard way! Now I gotta tap the screw hole with larger bolts after removing all 3 engine mounts and hoisting the engine up and pretty much out of the car. :(

[taijirich]

Great post, am doing this job tommorrow along with wrapping the headers on my SVTF and replacing two broken O2 sensors.

Can anyone tell me what I should torque the cam gear bolts to? I saw in a post that after installing the belt you torque the bolts, but there were no specs. I do not have a manual, am doing this from the knowledge gathered on this forum.

[indianaman]

Sorry for the long post but I think I may have messed up. I needed to replace my timing belt so I tore her down got off the harmonic balancer then put some green paint on the belt and the crank. Some blue paint on the belt and exhaust cam. then some Orange paint on the intake cam and belt. REmoved the belt counted the ribs between old belt and marked new belt with paint on same ribs. i.e from green 60 ribs to blue paint then from there 15 ribs to orange. re installed belt aligning paint marks perfectly. set tensioner. now when I rotate crank the paint marks never align again unless i rotate it back. I.e rotate crank ten times CW then back ten times CCW paint will line up no prob. am I good to go? car ran fine before I tore her down. Just some PM. I also noticed the tensioner moves off of its alignment markings when turning the engine over. is this normal. Its midnight and I am freaking out. HELP

ETA the car is still in pcs. now should i stop and get the stuff to put it at tdc? my new belt is on and my paint is still aligned.