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Old 05-10-2010, 11:02 PM   #11
jetrinka
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Yeah if my work doesn't have one I will have to go purchase one it seems. Might do it anyway as it would be a useful tool at work.

After some reading on the internet it seems the MAF on lots of early 90's Ford are problems. There is a TSB related to what seems to be my exact problem that I was reading about. I am going to check it out on alldata tomorrow at work and pick my bosses brain to be sure though. I don't like throwing parts at something unless I know the part is faulty.

I will keep this thread update. Again thanks for all the help.
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:08 AM   #12
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hey man, if you need a MAF for this car i have one that I'd love to sell. I bought one for my 93 1.9 escort and then realized it just needed a good cleaning. LMK!
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:32 PM   #13
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SYZ I might be taking you up on that offer very soon.

More progress today. Well perhaps...

Through my work I got a new O2 sensor for the car for about 20 bucks. Figured for that price I might as well just throw a part at it. Pulled the negative battery cable to erase any learned fuel nonsense and installed the new one.

Good news is it has a lot more power than before. Its definately night and day.
Bad news is that it only makes this power above a certain RPM. (3000 or so. No tach to tell). And only with load on the engine. Sitting in the parking lot in neutral I can floor the gas pedal and it will rev up just fine all the way to redline as many times as I want. Put it in first and accelerate away and it bogs and bogs and bogs until it gets to around this certain RPM and from then takes off like a rocket to redline. If I shift into second gear in these high RPMs second gear will have lots of power as well. Its only below this magic RPM level that the car has absolutely no power.

Its very strange. I re-scanned for codes using the dinosaur jumper wire method and it came up with a 111 code which is "all fine" status so the computer isn't recognizing anything in particular.

Something isn't recognizing the correct load on the motor until a specific RPM and therefore isn't sending fuel until that point. This is my theory anyway. Things like a the cam and crank sensor are ruled out because these wouldn't exhibit these symptoms.

Fuel pressure regulator should be ruled out being that at WOT, no matter what RPM there should be much less vacuum than with the throttle closed. I think... Anyone care to educate me more on fuel pressure regulators operated by vacuum and how this might pertain to this situation and how to test?

IACV is cleaned, doesn't leak from chamber to chamber, and wouldn't affect this situation.

O2 sensor is brand new.

TPS sensor. Just doesn't seem like a TPS issue at all.

A clogged injector wouldn't just clear up at a magic RPM and then re-clog under that RPM.

A coil or ignition problem would result in a misfire which this is not.

Intake air temp sensor. Please....

This leaves me with the MAF. I cleaned it today just for the heck of it and it seemed to almost make it worse. At least before it wasn't happening constantly unless I just wasn't letting it get below that certain RPM while driving it for some reason. I am lost on this one. I am going to drive it to work tomorrow and have one of my co-workers (driveability genius) look at it for me a bit. Please keep sharing ideas though!
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Old 05-12-2010, 12:54 AM   #14
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it took off like a rocket? c'mon man, these things have 88hp stock! lol They're slow as shit!
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Old 05-12-2010, 11:25 AM   #15
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lol. Like a rocket comparitively to what it was. haha. Fair enough.

Having it towed to my work so Len AKA - Driveability Genius can look at it. He figures things like this out like a kid eats candy.... Its ridiculous..
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:59 PM   #16
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Bwahahaha I figured it out!!!

Got to work and hooked up the break-out box to the ECU and put a voltmeter on the O2 pin to see what it was doing. Got a pretty solid 10 volts out of it. Something is obviously wrong because typically its at most 1 volt.

Go look at the connector and find it had hit the exhaust manifold and melted through and basically shorted the O2 heater circuit to the O2 feed to the computer.

Basically the O2 was seeing such high voltage out of the O2 at all times that it thought it was running super rich all the time and eventually ran out of adjustments to the fueling, threw a code and ran like hell.

Anyway. Cut the old O2 out, didn't bother with a new connector, soldered the new O2 in there and it runs like a top.

Thanks all for the help and advice!
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Old 05-15-2010, 02:05 PM   #17
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nice, glad you got it figured out!
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