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Old 05-06-2010, 12:57 PM   #91
the_doc735
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With the amount of fight that bolt is giving you, you could have installed a V8 by now! I hate pesky bolts like that.
this is getting the better of me now!
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:07 PM   #92
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Damn........I thought that the decision was that you were going to Dremel the head pretty much right off, or groove around the back of the head to relieve the torque, thus not requiring much/any countertorque? How did you ever get any grip on the bolt when you had ground the corners off? Unfortunately from square one the camshafts timing bar should not have been installed during any attempts at breaking the pulley bolt loose. The washer is off, right? The pulley is keyed to the crank with a Woodruff key which may be mashed over and holding the pulley on there......it may take a good pull to get it off. If the pin is bent enough causing it not to want to come out, then the only way I can see to resolve that, is to drop the sump, unfortunately.
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Old 05-06-2010, 03:36 PM   #93
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Damn........I thought that the decision was that you were going to Dremel the head pretty much right off, or groove around the back of the head to relieve the torque, thus not requiring much/any countertorque? How did you ever get any grip on the bolt when you had ground the corners off? Unfortunately from square one the camshafts timing bar should not have been installed during any attempts at breaking the pulley bolt loose. The washer is off, right? The pulley is keyed to the crank with a Woodruff key which may be mashed over and holding the pulley on there......it may take a good pull to get it off. If the pin is bent enough causing it not to want to come out, then the only way I can see to resolve that, is to drop the sump, unfortunately.
I DID "groove around the back of the head to relieve the torque, thus not requiring much/any countertorque". I wrote: Dremeled a couple of mm right round the back of the head of the bolt & applied release oil. But by the fact that it still resisted massive countertorque seems to imply that the bolt shaft itself is totally jammed? i.e. the shaft resisted 1000 ft/lbs air impact - followed by a manual breaker bar and rather than begin to move [unscrew] it simply sacrificed it's own head instead [the point of LEAST resistance?]. I may have an immovable crankshaft pulley bolt shaft in there?

I didn't "ground the corners off" ? ~ I grooved it.

The washer is not off. I'm beginning to wonder if it is a washer or simply part of the pulley design [part of the mould/part of the cast]; when the bolt head is on it looks like a washer but now I think it is an integral part of the pulley itself by design [i.e. it just resembles one [a washer] in shape]

Woodruff key? You mean Allen key/grub screw?

I half heartedly used my 3 leg puller and the pulley didn't give way, [then again it wouldn't if there is a grub screw in the side holding it on - I'll have to look for that]. The trouble with the puller is that the central screw 'foot' has a larger diameter than the pulley bolt thread would be- so it won't pass through the centre of the pulley - only press up against it; and as the shaft of the bolt is still in the crankshaft pulley thread hole I can't feed anything into that hole in order to protrude out of it so that the central 'foot' of the 3 leg puller has something to push against. The central 'foot' of the 3 leg puller really needs a thinner rod extension that can pass through [the pulley] and push against the remainder of the crankshaft bolt thread. Can't find anything like that on the web but then again I don't know what to search for?

dropping the sump means having to put the engine mount back in as it is supported from underneath with a scissor jack and wood. Jack up the other side, remove oil, remove bolts and a new gasket to seal upon refitting the sump. How would I bend the locking pin back into shape to get it out of the block?
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Old 05-06-2010, 05:53 PM   #94
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There should be a washer under the head of the bolt, so if the washer is still "hanging on" then it'll keep the pulley from coming off. You must still have some bolt head material "mushroomed" over the washer.
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Old 05-06-2010, 06:14 PM   #95
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There should be a washer under the head of the bolt, so if the washer is still "hanging on" then it'll keep the pulley from coming off. You must still have some bolt head material "mushroomed" over the washer.
how to solve this then? Can I just attempt to pry it off? Or more grinding? [leaving less bolt shaft to grab hold of!]

the bolt head thickness [from front to back] that sheared is around 8mm in depth.
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Old 05-06-2010, 06:32 PM   #96
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Grind away until the washer falls off......then hopefully the pulley will "slide" off. You'll see the end of the key and the keyslot in the pulley.
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Old 05-06-2010, 06:41 PM   #97
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Grind away until the washer falls off......then hopefully the pulley will "slide" off. You'll see the end of the key and the keyslot in the pulley.
"Grind until washer falls off!" ~ I wish it would fall off!

"the pulley will "slide" off" ~ I wish it would slide off!

"the key and the keyslot" ~ erm? ~ do you mean a notch?

cheers!
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Old 05-06-2010, 07:26 PM   #98
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Grind the bolt head/shank flush with the surface of the washer until it comes off or you can see a distinct line indicating the bolt outside diameter/washer inside diameter. If it still "sticks" just get a sharp/flat podger under the washer and pry/pop it off the pulley. Is there rust?
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Old 05-06-2010, 08:20 PM   #99
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Grind the bolt head/shank flush with the surface of the washer until it comes off or you can see a distinct line indicating the bolt outside diameter/washer inside diameter. If it still "sticks" just get a sharp/flat podger under the washer and pry/pop it off the pulley. Is there rust?
yes there is surface rust!

At the moment, the distinct line is that of a hex shape head [where I dremeled around]. No key/notch/groove visible at all?

Maybe I should grind until the profile becomes 'round'??

If it's a washer it must be grafted on to the pulley with corrosion i.e. it looks like one piece, not two!

I have a 4Lb. club hammer and small cold chisel which may separate them? Unless it's all one piece, then it won't!

Cheers!
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Old 05-06-2010, 09:49 PM   #100
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I'm now not sure what you've done, but you have to lop off the head of the bolt. In other words, all you should have left is the end of the shank diameter of the bolt. If you grind it flush with the washer (photos of a 1.6 on a UK website clearly show the loose washer under the head of a removed pulley bolt) and reasonably flat it might help if you have to use a puller. The washer should be protecting the pulley during all this grinding. You won't see the keyway (groove) until the washer is off.
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