Researching: Spray Bomb Painting : Proper Techniques.

02Zetechse · 12-07-2009, 06:30 PM

I was wondering if the Fine Members of this forum would be willing to help me gather some information.

I am looking for Tips and Tricks on doing a "Good" job.I know that Spray bombing will never be perfect.

I have heard when using Rustoleum Paint to buy a can of Elmers Spray Adhesive for the cap. They call it a Rusto Fat Cap. Its supposed to give a bigger spray fan and doesnt Sputter like the regular cap.

Anything from Prep to Clear Coating is welcome.

I will update as I find more information

- get a bucket that will hold your cans pf spray paint. Then fill it up with HOT tap water. The can won't explode- don't worry. then put the cans in it so the contents of the can are warmed up before you spray.
- shake the cans really well for a minute or 2.
- hold the can upside down and press the nozzle for a couple of short blasts to clear the nozzle of any dust or old paint.

The reason you want to use a differant color primer, is so when paint the finish coat on, if you cant see the primer, you know youve put enough paint on.

Hi end auto painters used to use red oxide primer, under yellow, blue, black. Just so they knew they had put an even full coat on the car.

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TSmiley98 · 12-07-2009, 08:45 PM

you would get a better job at Maaco for a little bit of money (alot cheaper than most places)

tictactone · 12-07-2009, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TSmiley98

you would get a better job at Maaco for a little bit of money (alot cheaper than most places)

lol, they suck at prep work though, i've honestly seen better spray bomb jobs then maaco jobs. but you get what you pay for.

i've spray bombed a few cars and while they never come out perfect, they dont look like total shit either. take your time on the prep work, make sure its completely dry and clean between coats, do thin coats. i usually use an adhesion promoter too to help. plastic bumpers (or anything flexible for that matter) need a flex additive to prevent cracking of the paint, especially when it gets cold, theres a few websites that sell spray paint with a flex additive otherwise napa can mix some up for you for around $15 a can. keep it warm and dry, mask everything you dont want painted off, and take your time. also, walmart sells a "spray gun" adapter that just clicks onto the top of the can so you can pull a trigger rather then press the button down which is a lot more comfortable and you can keep the can level and spray more easily with it.

norcalfocus01 · 12-07-2009, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02Zetechse

I was wondering if the Fine Members of this forum would be willing to help me gather some information.

I am looking for Tips and Tricks on doing a "Good" job.I know that Spray bombing will never be perfect.

I have heard when using Rustoleum Paint to buy a can of Elmers Spray Adhesive for the cap. They call it a Rusto Fat Cap. Its supposed to give a bigger spray fan and doesnt Sputter like the regular cap.

Anything from Prep to Clear Coating is welcome.

I will update as I find more information

- get a bucket that will hold your cans pf spray paint. Then fill it up with HOT tap water. The can won't explode- don't worry. then put the cans in it so the contents of the can are warmed up before you spray.
- shake the cans really well for a minute or 2.
- hold the can upside down and press the nozzle for a couple of short blasts to clear the nozzle of any dust or old paint.

Ive heard of doing the larger spray tip, but the idea makes sence. Rust Oleum makes a spray paint called Universal. It has a trigger spray on the cap and sprays a fine fan pattern rahter than the oval pattern you get with other spray cans. Now these cans arent cheap but they are the best spray cans you can get. The can also sprays at any angle which is nice when doing cruves and in & outs on the car.

Prep...Simple Green and a green 3M Scotch Brite Pad. Kills two birds with one stone, cleans and removes wax and dirt, the pad lightly scratches the surface which will improve adhesion. Then rinse, rinse, rinse. I always stress this because people will leave the Simple Green on the surface which screws the adhesion.

Primer...Rust Oleum's Automotive Filler Primer. YOu can get it at Wal Mart and Auto Zone. It is a higher building primer that fills light scratches in the surface. Once it has dryed for a day wet sand it with 800 grit paper. Then it gives a ultra smooth base for your paint.

Paint...3 to 4 light coats. Never try and cover the primer in one coat. I wouldnt bother wet sanding between coats. If you take your time on the applacation you wont need to sand.

Clear...Why bother? Its a spray bomb job, just use a glossy paint. All a clear does is protect the coat under it. IMO its not worth the extra time or money on a spray bomb job.

I personally wouldnt put the cans in warm water, I just store them inside 2 days before I plan on using them.

Yes shake them for about 2 minutes. Even tho the ball in moving inside its not mixed all the way.

It is common practice to clear the valve by spraying the can upside down. But if your using any of Rust Oleums Paints it will have a spray any way valve.

If you want links for all the paints just let me know.

02Zetechse · 12-08-2009, 01:23 PM

I was wanting to use a Clear for UV protection to keep the color as long as possible

norcalfocus01 · 12-08-2009, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02Zetechse

I was wanting to use a Clear for UV protection to keep the color as long as possible

Wrong. This is a common mistake that people make. Think about this, its clear the UV rays shine right through it. All a clear does is protect the coats below it from dirt and scrapes and maybe give a little more gloss in some cases.

Look like I said before its a spray bomb job, just paint it and leave it, the money you'll spend vs the benifet of having a clear isnt worth it.

***Mr.Bergner*** · 12-08-2009, 08:31 PM

Mmmmm, fat caps. I used to know all about them back in the day.

http://www.grafcaps.com/index.php?ma...=index&cPath=1

02Zetechse · 12-09-2009, 02:21 PM

ok question then norcal , what does the uv resistance in the clear do then? cause i dont know

norcalfocus01 · 12-09-2009, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02Zetechse

ok question then norcal , what does the uv resistance in the clear do then? cause i dont know

UV resistance clears are not what you'll find in spray cans for the most part. Plus their only UV resistant not UV proof.

Think of it this way, would you rather have a bullet proof or bullet resistant vest?

The term resistant used in paints doesnt mean a whole lot. Its over used and over sold, IMO. The UV resistant clears will only block X amount of UV rays from getting threw for a period of time. Once all the UV resistant particles are broke down all the UV rays will get threw. A ture automotive or industrail quality UV resistant clear cost $100-$200 for a gallon easy. To put that same paint in a spray can, the spray can would cost $20, and you'll need about 10-12 cans for a entire car. Not economical for doing a spray bomb job. The whole idea behind doing a spray bomb job is it being cheap.

Look at it this way, you dont put clear on it, and you'll be able to re paint it easier.

Im not telling you what to do, by all means if you want to put a clear on it, go for it. But the extra time and cost of putting the clear on will out weigh the benifet of have a clear on there.