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Old 11-11-2009, 10:57 PM   #85
Roushturboedzx3
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Originally Posted by Turbo Turtle View Post
yeah that is how i took mine out as well

i was referring to how easy the diff is to do... douche
hhaahahh suuuuure you were lol just wait till you get to bama im gonna come up there an pee in your tank ahah
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:22 PM   #86
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im not worried about it.. i'll still beat you with my tank full of piss
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:05 PM   #87
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im not worried about it.. i'll still beat you with my tank full of piss
LOL cant argue with that haahh;0 well maybe i can you will never hook haaha
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Old 11-13-2009, 08:06 PM   #88
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I've been contemplating air/air intercooling because I want boost really badly and at this point, the price difference is attractive. I already have a CXRacing I/C pipe kit...I was looking at the piping I would need and the one kit is almost enough. I think I need just a couple more 90* and 45* couplers and maybe a 45* or 75* pipe. At this point I just really want boost. Going with air/air would chop off about $200 from my build cost. CXRacing I/C is $120. 28x8x3.5. This should fit with maybe a little cutting of the crash bar, correct? Or should I stick with 28x7x2.5?
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Old 11-14-2009, 12:30 PM   #89
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Went with a shorter height core 'cause I don't want to cut my crash bar. I'm going for ease of install at this point.

Installing J&S and BAP today. What should I run the BAP at?
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Old 11-14-2009, 05:28 PM   #90
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BAP installed. Car runs, so it appears that my electrical engineering degree paid off . I have it set right in the middle and didn't see any difference in how the car ran. Any suggestions where to run it?
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:10 AM   #91
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Awesome...clutch master cylinder started leaking last night...ordered a new one already, *sigh*...
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Old 11-21-2009, 01:00 PM   #92
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Anyone care about my build anymore? lol

First off, changing the master cylinder was a b_tch!!! Glad that is done. If I have to do it again, I'll be able to do it so much faster, hah.

Got my I/C a couple days ago. Gonna go to Home Depot and buy some mounting materials. Got the J&S installed and just from sitting at idle, I'm pretty sure it works. Set at full sensitivity, when I rev it up, I get some activity.

Last things on my list are oil pan and dipstick. Might need a few more I/C pipes and couplers but we'll see.
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Old 11-21-2009, 05:06 PM   #93
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Still watching this man, waiting to see your progress. Goodluck.
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:34 PM   #94
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To all the people who "hate pin 57"....that was cake compared to other things I have installed. The black splicers that they send make it a snap. A good tip I heard from someone is to use pin 71 for switched power. I have all the switches set DOWN.

So that means: 10* of retard, retard individual, 4 cyl, and 2* of switched retard. Anyone else running something different? I believe John told me to do individual cyl.
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Selling my car (without turbo)

Last edited by bmylez; 11-22-2009 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:46 PM   #95
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Got the I/C mostly installed. My damn cheap drill runs out of juice so quickly. Just have one more hole to drill.
Here is a pic missing one bracket:


Also, here are some pics of my initial I/C pipe mock-up. Wanted an opinion on stuff before I start hacking pipes up and ordering unnecessary couplers.









Should I not be routing it under the radiator support? Also, is the BOV in a weird spot? I'm thinking the MAF tube should fit nicely in the space that's left. Looks like a 90* coupler can connect a straight pipe to the throttle body?
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:04 PM   #96
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looks good man, can't wait to see more
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