Crank pulley bolt came loose - Page 2

jetrinka · 11-02-2009, 11:14 PM

Just pull it out the top. And the compressor is a paint to unbolt. There are two bolts readily accessible from the bottom, but there is one on the top that is totally retarded to get to. Its located almost directly under the PS pump. Then it should just dangle outta the way.

Good choice on the new motor.

fishpony · 11-02-2009, 11:28 PM

ok cool that restores my confidence that i can pull it out the top. Im not worried about the passenger side motor mount but i pulled off the driver side and there are brackets welded to the rail i'm not sure the transmission will clear. Ive just been assuming to pull the transmission out with the engine to make it easier to bolt everything up but i guess it actually makes no sense to do that. duh

Thanks for the heads up on the compressor bolt. i appreciate all the help.

jetrinka · 11-02-2009, 11:33 PM

Yeah I am not even sure if the whole unit would fit out the bottom. I haven't ever seen the underside of an 08-09 but I know that on the 05-07, its a crap-shoot on even pulling the trans out the bottom by itself. On my car I was able to wiggle the trans out without moving the subframe outta the way, but on another guys car, (same year) we had to unbolt the subframe and rotate it out of the way for the trans to come out. One other thing you should know, is that if you are planning on removing the axles entirely from the car, they are pressed into the hubs. The passenger side comes out of the trans real easy but the drivers is held in by some awful force of the devil it seems. Either use a slide hammer with a claw attachement around the trans side joint housing, or get the passenger side out first, and hammer it out through the diff with a punch and nice big hammer.

I dunno what else. Just take your time and it should come out pretty easy.

petes05st · 11-02-2009, 11:56 PM

So Yea its a horrible design. i had my #1 rod bearing go out and ended up rebuilding the motor on my st for under 1200.00 minor upgrades, also didnt torque the crank bolt.. and 20mi later...YEA.. only tapped 2 valves exhaust side. so i bought the valves and replaced. all good now but my whole point is that if it happend at idle or under 2300rpm you might not have a whole lot to replace, i have a rod bearing set and ring set and some pistons for sale..... oh yea and after pulling the engine 2 times its still a lil pain to install tranny from the bottom, haha

fishpony · 11-03-2009, 12:01 AM

good to know. i usually have dropped the subframe along with the motor, transmission, and suspension. well now i'm hoping that i can just unbolt the transmission and leave it in the car. I'm really not sure since i've never done that before but i guess i'll find out.

it would be nice to leave the transmission in so i don't have to get it aligned also. i have a feeling if i try pulling everything out i will have to unbolt the suspension to get the axels out.

fishpony · 11-03-2009, 12:07 AM

yeah i kept telling myself theres no way that this bolt holds the crank sprocket in place. it just doesn't make sense. i know it happened when the car was barely even running at all but it's going to be cheaper to just replace the motor and have someone rebuild this one. i pulled out all the spark plugs and they are all completely smashed.

petes05st · 11-03-2009, 12:10 AM

oh wow ouch. not good yea i could have saved a dollar or 2 but 2.3 are harder to come by. some pix in my album http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...iendID=2894661

fishpony · 11-03-2009, 03:32 PM

nice, yah im guessing that's what some of my valves look like. I got the new motor in today just gotta find a cherry picker to borrow because i don't really want to spend $250 on one. about time to get to work removing the bad one.

***whynotthinkwhynot*** · 11-03-2009, 03:47 PM

OK, just to go over all those who have said that Ford's diamond friction surface is a horrible design- you're just experiencing horrible mechanics. My engine has well over 100k miles on it- so how is that horrible? Fix it right. EGZ put together a D23 making over 190 hp, and his crank pulley bolt never came undone. These are the same people who couldn't figure out why they couldn't get a rebuilt Chevy V8 running when they somehow swapped up a V6 cam sprocket laying around for the V8 part. In the 80's they probably plugged all the vacuum lines off feedback Quadrajunks and wondered why the car just shuffled around, adjusted screws on Honda and Toyota carbs without propane sensors then made the customers buy $500 replacement carbs, and likely blew every Holley power valve on anything with a spark plug problem that they ran into.

It would be better with a key, but a key is not going to save you from idiots who can't turn bolts correctly, or don't have enough sense to actually do research before working on something unfamiliar. It will just be some other bolt that screws your world up. For you Fishpony, I'm sorry it's a hard lesson, try not to learn it a second time regardless of what vehicle it's on. Keyless engines make perfectly good sense from a factory standpoint where you don't have to rely on someone's eyeball- insert timing tools, bolt everything down, and move on to the next one.

I do believe I read somewhere that Cosworth made a keyed crank, but without keyed cams, and all that go with it- what's the point?

11-03-2009, 03:47 PM	#21
*whynotthinkwhynot* Captain TMI Join Date: Jan 2005 FF Member#: 18416 Location: Memphis TN, USA What I Drive: 05 ZXW; 2002 Land Yacht (Windstar) Posts: 8,120 FF Reputation: 187 Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)	OK, just to go over all those who have said that Ford's diamond friction surface is a horrible design- you're just experiencing horrible mechanics. My engine has well over 100k miles on it- so how is that horrible? Fix it right. EGZ put together a D23 making over 190 hp, and his crank pulley bolt never came undone. These are the same people who couldn't figure out why they couldn't get a rebuilt Chevy V8 running when they somehow swapped up a V6 cam sprocket laying around for the V8 part. In the 80's they probably plugged all the vacuum lines off feedback Quadrajunks and wondered why the car just shuffled around, adjusted screws on Honda and Toyota carbs without propane sensors then made the customers buy $500 replacement carbs, and likely blew every Holley power valve on anything with a spark plug problem that they ran into. It would be better with a key, but a key is not going to save you from idiots who can't turn bolts correctly, or don't have enough sense to actually do research before working on something unfamiliar. It will just be some other bolt that screws your world up. For you Fishpony, I'm sorry it's a hard lesson, try not to learn it a second time regardless of what vehicle it's on. Keyless engines make perfectly good sense from a factory standpoint where you don't have to rely on someone's eyeball- insert timing tools, bolt everything down, and move on to the next one. I do believe I read somewhere that Cosworth made a keyed crank, but without keyed cams, and all that go with it- what's the point? __________________ ---The Complete How-To Archive-- Moderating Tech Chat and Duratec Chat, let me know if I can help.

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11-02-2009, 11:28 PM	#14
fishpony Focus Rookie Join Date: Nov 2009 FF Member#: 70137 Location: wichita What I Drive: 2003 maxima Posts: 10 FF Reputation: 1 Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)	ok cool that restores my confidence that i can pull it out the top. Im not worried about the passenger side motor mount but i pulled off the driver side and there are brackets welded to the rail i'm not sure the transmission will clear. Ive just been assuming to pull the transmission out with the engine to make it easier to bolt everything up but i guess it actually makes no sense to do that. duh Thanks for the heads up on the compressor bolt. i appreciate all the help.

11-02-2009, 11:56 PM	#16
petes05st Focus Enthusiast Join Date: Aug 2008 FF Member#: 58867 Location: Riverside aka Riverslime What I Drive: Black ST Posts: 102 FF Reputation: 1 Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)	So Yea its a horrible design. i had my #1 rod bearing go out and ended up rebuilding the motor on my st for under 1200.00 minor upgrades, also didnt torque the crank bolt.. and 20mi later...YEA.. only tapped 2 valves exhaust side. so i bought the valves and replaced. all good now but my whole point is that if it happend at idle or under 2300rpm you might not have a whole lot to replace, i have a rod bearing set and ring set and some pistons for sale..... oh yea and after pulling the engine 2 times its still a lil pain to install tranny from the bottom, haha

11-03-2009, 12:01 AM	#17
fishpony Focus Rookie Join Date: Nov 2009 FF Member#: 70137 Location: wichita What I Drive: 2003 maxima Posts: 10 FF Reputation: 1 Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)	good to know. i usually have dropped the subframe along with the motor, transmission, and suspension. well now i'm hoping that i can just unbolt the transmission and leave it in the car. I'm really not sure since i've never done that before but i guess i'll find out. it would be nice to leave the transmission in so i don't have to get it aligned also. i have a feeling if i try pulling everything out i will have to unbolt the suspension to get the axels out.

11-03-2009, 12:07 AM	#18
fishpony Focus Rookie Join Date: Nov 2009 FF Member#: 70137 Location: wichita What I Drive: 2003 maxima Posts: 10 FF Reputation: 1 Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)	yeah i kept telling myself theres no way that this bolt holds the crank sprocket in place. it just doesn't make sense. i know it happened when the car was barely even running at all but it's going to be cheaper to just replace the motor and have someone rebuild this one. i pulled out all the spark plugs and they are all completely smashed.

11-03-2009, 12:10 AM	#19
petes05st Focus Enthusiast Join Date: Aug 2008 FF Member#: 58867 Location: Riverside aka Riverslime What I Drive: Black ST Posts: 102 FF Reputation: 1 Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)	oh wow ouch. not good yea i could have saved a dollar or 2 but 2.3 are harder to come by. some pix in my album http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...iendID=2894661

11-03-2009, 03:32 PM	#20
fishpony Focus Rookie Join Date: Nov 2009 FF Member#: 70137 Location: wichita What I Drive: 2003 maxima Posts: 10 FF Reputation: 1 Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)	nice, yah im guessing that's what some of my valves look like. I got the new motor in today just gotta find a cherry picker to borrow because i don't really want to spend $250 on one. about time to get to work removing the bad one.