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Old 09-04-2009, 09:39 AM   #11
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We know that many people have replaced rear drums with rotors without the mentioned problem. I'm guessing, that not many of those (if any) had ABS. You mentioned you removed the ABS system. I don't know what's involved in doing so, having never done it, but I'm guessing some new plumbing was in order to replace what was removed or bypassed. Was this properly sized? Is it all solid tubing? If it were me, and the ABS replacement plumbing is correct, I'd focus my attention to the master cylinder and the bias bar.
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:42 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runfocusrun View Post
Isn't there a simple way to just adjust the pedal ?? I'm just guessing here. Also IMO if you have OEM ABS why change for a non ABS, just my .02c's
SCCA class rules, some allow ABS, some don't.

I'm not a big fan of ABS for competition events, it's a great feature on the road for emergency manouvers or unexpected road conditions, but it has only marginal benefits on track.

Even if I were running a class that allowed it, I'd rather ditch the 10 lbs by removing the pump/valve block.

As for the pedal adjustment, there is no simple adjustment. and it's not just the pedal height that's a problem, it's the total distance of travel.

If I adjust it to have the depressed position higher, then it's at rest location would be that much higher too...

I've already lowered the throttle pedal a bit by adjusting the cable mounting, but if I have to correct the brake pedal, it will be a bit more complicated.

If I don't get any better ideas on this post, I'll probably try modifyng the pivot points on the pedal to move the attachment point for the pedal rod that actuates the booster/master cyl.

Anyone have an extra brake pedal floating around?
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