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Old 07-30-2009, 03:18 PM   #11
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Hi there, I use BFG drag radials on 15" centerlines at 18 lbs. I brake torque to 1800 rpm. I let it shift on it's own, with the OD on.

I did manual shift a few times, but it hung between 2-3.

I also tried it with the OD off, but it hit the rev limiter before the end of the quarter. I am actually in OD at the 1/4 mark.

I think you are doing good, the 60 ft. will improve once you figure out just how to best launch.
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:22 PM   #12
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I'm going to try the steelies next time, and see what happens. I'm not ready for drag radials, as I had very little wheel spin at the line. I did try overdrive off the first pass, and have to agree with you. It only took once to know it wasn't right. I'm thinking a tach will help my launch. It's only a guessing game at this point.

I'm going to re ask this:
Has anyone installed a Lentec valvebody? And, since the PCM controls it, how much different can it be, compared to stock?

But, add this question,
Anyone get a tune for a stock auto? And, have before, and after timeslips?
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Old 07-31-2009, 09:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roosterst View Post
I'm going to try the steelies next time, and see what happens. I'm not ready for drag radials, as I had very little wheel spin at the line. I did try overdrive off the first pass, and have to agree with you. It only took once to know it wasn't right. I'm thinking a tach will help my launch. It's only a guessing game at this point.

I'm going to re ask this:
Has anyone installed a Lentec valvebody? And, since the PCM controls it, how much different can it be, compared to stock?

But, add this question,
Anyone get a tune for a stock auto? And, have before, and after timeslips?
Hi, as for the steelies, theres a few things to think about (eventually) the smaller the diameter of the wheel, the quicker it will accelerate....and the lighter the wheel, the quicker it will accelerate (re: Unsprung mass or weight).That's a little too fine an adjustment for a guy just getting into it, though.

So on the Lentec side, yes I have a Lentec street terminator tranny (w/ LSD) with his valve body. It is built to handle 250 whp (I am at around 230).

I ran my stock auto with a Focus Sport tune through my Xcal 2 for a couple of years. This tune offered me adjustability of my shift mph (+/-) as well as a "Aggressive shifting at WOT" option. That is what you want. It increases the line pressure under load, higher line pressure=safer shifting=faster shifting (less chance of slip). For where you are at, I would recommend you find a similiar tune with some user adjustability. You just tell them your ECU # and they will send it to you. I haven't been on the FS or CFM website for a while but either should be fine (I lean towards CFM, Will is a great guy).

As well, I will point out that the Lentec valve body will not make any more difference than the WOT tune, so I would spend my money there first. If you start getting big HP levels, then you might actually end up with a built tranny.

Don't let ANYONE on here tell you it's a waste of time racing with an auto. You got what you got, work with it. And a tach will definately help you out, Bro.

I would like to recommend you get a NOS wet shot kit (35-50-75 hp adjustability) you will kick ass on your ET and mph without needing to do massive mods like turbo, etc. It's the easiest way to get the speed you crave.
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Old 07-31-2009, 09:38 AM   #14
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I have installed a Lentech valve body by itself. I'll give you my perception on it.

When the computer learns your driving, the shifting is definitely firmer and quicker in regular driving, but if you're at WOT it will slip into gears about the same as stock... at least that's how it feels.

Now if you pull the battery and reset the ECU, you can tell the shifts are really firm at WOT because you can feel it physically pulling the car hard as it shifts. I think in order to get your shifts to work *properly* with the recal valve body, you need a tune to set trans psi and other things that I'm not sure what they are but I've heard Tom reference lol. But that way your shifts won't soften up once the ECU does the learning procedure and maps out everything.

Oh and I've gotta throw Tom's name out there because he raced with a Lentech Auto Focus for a while and knows a lot about tuning the transmissions from experience. So look him up for a tune.

I've always wanted to reset the ECU and run a 1/4mi and then do it again after the computer mapped to see what the difference is, but I haven't. It would be interesting to see how much the time would be different based on the shifts being really firm and quick and the A/F and other things not being completely adjusted.
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Old 07-31-2009, 11:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dcl2049 View Post
I have installed a Lentech valve body by itself. I'll give you my perception on it.

When the computer learns your driving, the shifting is definitely firmer and quicker in regular driving, but if you're at WOT it will slip into gears about the same as stock... at least that's how it feels.

Now if you pull the battery and reset the ECU, you can tell the shifts are really firm at WOT because you can feel it physically pulling the car hard as it shifts. I think in order to get your shifts to work *properly* with the recal valve body, you need a tune to set trans psi and other things that I'm not sure what they are but I've heard Tom reference lol. But that way your shifts won't soften up once the ECU does the learning procedure and maps out everything.

Oh and I've gotta throw Tom's name out there because he raced with a Lentech Auto Focus for a while and knows a lot about tuning the transmissions from experience. So look him up for a tune.

I've always wanted to reset the ECU and run a 1/4mi and then do it again after the computer mapped to see what the difference is, but I haven't. It would be interesting to see how much the time would be different based on the shifts being really firm and quick and the A/F and other things not being completely adjusted.
Tom IS the fastest auto guy ever. I think he ran 11's? in that beast.

I did benchmark my pre and post lentec times, the valving didn't make much difference in my set up, though the lsd helped my 60ft times by a couple of tenths. Mind you, the PW tune is conservative on the tranny....I agree , I think if you could tune up your shift points and pressures it might be good for several tenths at least. I wondered if you got a tune to mod your shift points to 7k or so I would think your mph would be up significantly, especially if you had cams working that part of the band.
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:44 PM   #16
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Just to clarify, this wasn't my first time at the track. Just the first time with the Focus.

Thanks for your replies, and for the information. I haven't been able to find too many people on here driving an automatic, so that was the main purpose for this thread. I'm just doing my homework first, as I need the Focus as a daily driver for now.

Looking at Lentech's site, it seems their Street Cruiser trans is only a stock tranny, with a valve body. I read somewhere, that they replace the stock input shaft, but I can't find anything else to support that.

A tune, looks like the way to go. Not only will I be able to use it for performance, and DTC's, but Tom updates tunes for free. Seems like a win/win/win to me.

I have thought about nitrous for the simple fact that it can be turned off, when I'm not at the track. That's way down the road at this point though.

What were some of your times, and what mods where done?
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:49 PM   #17
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You can just get the valve body by itself from Lentech for about $500 IIRC. It's an easy install. I guess they just sell the street cruiser for people who nuke an old trans and want a starting point for a new one or something.
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:52 PM   #18
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You can just get the valve body by itself from Lentech for about $500 IIRC. It's an easy install. I guess they just sell the street cruiser for people who nuke an old trans and want a starting point for a new one or something.
That's what I was wondering. LOL Why would someone buy the whole trans, when you can get the only upgraded part for a third of the price. And, a lot less work. It makes sense now. LOL
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Old 07-31-2009, 05:20 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by roosterst View Post
Just to clarify, this wasn't my first time at the track. Just the first time with the Focus.

Thanks for your replies, and for the information. I haven't been able to find too many people on here driving an automatic, so that was the main purpose for this thread. I'm just doing my homework first, as I need the Focus as a daily driver for now.

Looking at Lentech's site, it seems their Street Cruiser trans is only a stock tranny, with a valve body. I read somewhere, that they replace the stock input shaft, but I can't find anything else to support that.

A tune, looks like the way to go. Not only will I be able to use it for performance, and DTC's, but Tom updates tunes for free. Seems like a win/win/win to me.

I have thought about nitrous for the simple fact that it can be turned off, when I'm not at the track. That's way down the road at this point though.

What were some of your times, and what mods where done?
I think Tom wouldve ran faster than 11's if that beast couldve been controlled more off the line stooopidly awesome amount of powe and more importantly tq
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Old 08-01-2009, 12:00 AM   #20
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I ran a 15.6 in my jrsc bbk focus with an auto tranny, better times are to be had. Belt slippage is killing my boost, hitting 6-7 psi max, and some tire spin off the line. The auto works well for drag racing, and you will run very consistent times.
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