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Old 06-02-2009, 11:26 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by tb1999 View Post
The track condition is rough in some spots, but the patching seems to be holding up OK. The worst parts are obviously in the carousel and turn 1. There were no holes anywhere and you can use the entire track, but it's like a cheese grater in some spots. We walked the track saturday night, and it's not pretty.

I think our cars could make a run against the BMW's and RX7's, check out my video here > YOUTUBE - SUMMIT PT 05.31.09 My best time for the weekend was 1:30.47, which is 4 seconds faster than NASA'a current Spec Focus track record there. (BTW - I'm currently @ 2675 with full tank of gas and driver, with 1695/980 F/R split. The last dyno was putting 150 to the wheels.)

X2 on having a chance to meet and talk shop. I've got something I'm working on for brake cooling ducts, and I need to tighten up my chassis. The H&R race springs and Koni yellows are OK, but I need coil overs to set ride heights and corner weights, and I'm thinking I want to run at least double my current spring rates.
I have brake ducts on the SVT that seem to work pretty well, I can send you information on that. Are you able to run any spring and strut combination you like? Im in the process of of change all that on my car. Im going with a set of KW V3s with different spring the new set up will be 450 in the front and 550 in the rear.
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My rides a 2002 SVT track car, & Boosted 2007 ST with the SAP.
The helmet has a special meaning for many drivers. How important is it to you? - It protects my head.

Do you have any special rituals when the helmet is concerned like many have? - I wipe it so that I can see better.
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:31 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Blackcatn2o View Post
if you want to tighten up the chassie an bolt on coilovers, buy the Spax RSX coilovers, then 500 lbs per spring.
Depending on your driving Style, I wouldnt go with any brands other the KW or Hot bits. I have seen just about ever make of front strut bent on the track. I know my first set of KWs lasted 6 years and never bent, and GaryK had a set that he wasnt able to bend.
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My rides a 2002 SVT track car, & Boosted 2007 ST with the SAP.
The helmet has a special meaning for many drivers. How important is it to you? - It protects my head.

Do you have any special rituals when the helmet is concerned like many have? - I wipe it so that I can see better.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:53 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Schroeder02 View Post
Depending on your driving Style, I wouldnt go with any brands other the KW or Hot bits. I have seen just about ever make of front strut bent on the track. I know my first set of KWs lasted 6 years and never bent, and GaryK had a set that he wasnt able to bend.
My plan is to send the Koni Yellows back to the factory, they will custom valve the struts/shocks and cut the stock spring perches off and prep for coilovers at a total cost of ~$750-$800.

I am a subborn b*st*rd and probably will not budge on the Koni's, they just have such a long term racing history, and excellent rep that I doubt I will consider anything else.

Spring rates however.....

The H&R Race springs are "barely" racing parts. They were almost streetable, and on the track they are way too soft. I'm thinking that I want to nearly double the spring rates to the 600-700 range, but I need to crunch some numbers now that I know my weight, and F/R splits.

From what I hear, some of these ITA Hondas and other front drivers are running 1000lbs springs!

I have 2 ideas for brake ducts:

One requires a custom fabbed duct that runs over the top of the steering knuckle/spindle to blow air into the top hat using the knuckle as part of the duct.

The other simply attaches to the lower control arm and just aims the airflow at the top hat just between the caliper and the ball joint. But this design would use a flexible all silicone rubber tip for the final 6" of the duct so the brake caliper can temporarily "crush" the flexible duct tip on turns.

What brake duct solution are you using?
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I like the same qualities in women and pistons; Lightweight, fast, and with the smallest skirts possible...
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:57 PM   #14
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the thing is about 1000 lbs springs is that if your going to run that high of a rating, your better of welding in some pipe in it's place.
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:15 PM   #15
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the thing is about 1000 lbs springs is that if your going to run that high of a rating, your better of welding in some pipe in it's place.
not sure what a 1000lb spring actually looks like, it may just be a cylindrical block of steel with a little slit cut in it!

I just know that most front drive cars handle best when they sit flat like a go cart, but if you like to tag the curbing on the corners you still need to keep the suspension a little soft. The H&R springs are in the 300 - 375 lb range, so I'm probably going to just double those numbers to start with.

The one thing I know for certain is that my car has more body roll than 99% of the cars I see preped for racing only. And since I already have the largest anti-roll bars made......

Chances are I'll get the spring rates up and soften the anti-roll bars to balance out the package so the transitional and steady state roll rates are closer to one another.

Unless I can get the spring rates/roll rates improved, I will have to compromise the camber settings. Too much negative camber to ovecome excessive body roll means that straight line braking and stability suffers.

managing body roll is so important.
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213 whp / 160 wtq D23 NA with stock intake and TB.

Inventor of "The $0 Thunder Throttle" & "Focuzdax-7" brake swap.
I like the same qualities in women and pistons; Lightweight, fast, and with the smallest skirts possible...
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:28 PM   #16
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Dude, looks impressive to say the least. What are you doing as far as wheels and rubber to keep this thing planted around the corners? Those spring rates are insane!
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Old 06-03-2009, 11:02 PM   #17
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Dude, looks impressive to say the least. What are you doing as far as wheels and rubber to keep this thing planted around the corners? Those spring rates are insane!
Thanks, it's amazing that I have actually made it to this point.

I DO NOT recommend taking a completely healthy 4 year old options loaded vehicle and turning into a race car! But I'm a mechinic and old school hot rodder and I have this thing about building what I drive and vice versa. So buying someone else's turn-key ride was not on my list of options. (Maybe the next time when I move to a different type of racer in a few years.)

With the exception of the roll cage, the entire project was completed with my own labor and skills. This way, win or lose, as both the "driver" and "crew chief", I get the credit regardless.

As for the wheels/tires.....

It's just some enkei 15X6.5's with 225/50/15 Nitto NT01's.

I'm still just running the H&R race springs, but when I make the change to coil overs, I'll bump up the spring rates significantly.

But this may not happen until the winter break, I have spent far too much money on the project this year already.

I've got plenty of driver skills to work on, so most of my $$ for the rest of this year will probably be spent on event fees to get as much "seat time" as possible.
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213 whp / 160 wtq D23 NA with stock intake and TB.

Inventor of "The $0 Thunder Throttle" & "Focuzdax-7" brake swap.
I like the same qualities in women and pistons; Lightweight, fast, and with the smallest skirts possible...
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tb1999 View Post

What brake duct solution are you using?


My brake ducts are 3 ducting hose you can get from Jegs or places like that, Attached to a set or Brake cooling blades from the Porsche 993. We welded brackets to the control arms and bolted the blades direct ally to that, I get a little wheel rub on the ducts at full lock but thats not an issue on the track.










Koni's are definitely good especially since they can be rebuilt the only drawback I have seen with them is they can bend at the steering knuckle. I would think youd be in the ballpark with the spring rate your looking at I think Leo had 800s in the rear on his speedvision challenge car, Im sure you can shoot him a PM and hed let you know. I went with 450s F and 550s R, My car is built as a HDPE/weekend driver so I had to compromise for a little drivability and I didnt want to max out the KWs.
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My rides a 2002 SVT track car, & Boosted 2007 ST with the SAP.
The helmet has a special meaning for many drivers. How important is it to you? - It protects my head.

Do you have any special rituals when the helmet is concerned like many have? - I wipe it so that I can see better.
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:56 AM   #19
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I want to road race how do you get started and I wish I had a focus to do it in. But I have a mkiii supra what all do I need to do to my mkiii race?
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Old 06-17-2009, 12:00 AM   #20
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I want to road race how do you get started and I wish I had a focus to do it in. But I have a mkiii supra what all do I need to do to my mkiii race?
Wow, that's not going to be a simple answer, but I will try to cover some basics and point you to more specific info to go from there.

OK - to "go racing" you will need alot more safety equipment than to just get out on a road race circuit for an HPDE (high performance driving experience) or TT (Time Trial).

Racing, HPDE, an TT all offer a variety of classes to run in, some of which are very economical, the current issue of SCCA's Sport Car magazine documents how they put a 2004 Sentra Spec R into a Showroom Stock class for wheel to wheel racing, for only $3000, plus the cost of the vehicle.

HPDE's and TT's often only require stock seats/belts and a qualifed Snell rated helmet for safety gear, plus the vehicle needs to meet a basic mechanical safety inspection. Racing classes and rules vary from club to club, but are more involved and require some specific items which all add up the $$$.

Check out these links for NASA and SCCA.

Go Racing (SCCA)

Cars / Rules (SCCA)

NASA Racing

Also check out - "Go Ahead, Take The Wheel."

This book is a great resource for just learning what is really involved with club racing as a hobby. The advice is very honest and practical, from a typical club racer.

BTW- the cover pic on this book is from a race at Lime Rock, and the Red RX7 at the top of the hill belongs to my friend.

It is also the very same vehicle I took my race school event in, and technically is the very first car I ever drove in a race. (Yes, really, that's a true fact! LOL)

One benefit that SCCA offers over NASA is the club supplied medical liability insurance that will help cover a portion of any medical bills associated with injuries sustained during an event.

MAny other clubs do track events, but for racing SCCA & NASA are your biggest clubs for this, and then you have specialty clubs that hold race events like Porsche and BMW clubs, or Vintage race clubs for older cars etc. etc.

The Supra is going to have to be in good mechaincal condition, no major fluid leaks, good brakes/tires/suspension etc just for starters, then the safety gear like roll cage, fire extinguisher, battery cut-off switch, etc, including your personal stuff. You'll need an approved driver's suit, helmet, gloves, shoes, and some form of head/neck protection.

IF purchased new, all this personal gear alone can outweigh the price of some cars. ($4000 or more for high end stuff, bargain priced items can be had for about $2000-$2500.) But if you have a burning desire to race with low budget, then start looking for used gear for sale, if you know what you need you can always find good deals if you search for them.

Hope this helps answer your question.

I would just spend the $16 and purchase the book mentioned above, it really lays things out for you on many levels. A great resource.
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213 whp / 160 wtq D23 NA with stock intake and TB.

Inventor of "The $0 Thunder Throttle" & "Focuzdax-7" brake swap.
I like the same qualities in women and pistons; Lightweight, fast, and with the smallest skirts possible...
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